I tried installing the 36lb's with extensions from South Bay Monday. The first thing I noticed was that they extended further out of the base manifold injector boss than the 80's stock Bosch. Before trying to reinstall the upper plenum (fuel rail is cast into it, can be seen in the pics laying upside down) I got the vernier scale out and spent an hour checking measurements. What I found was that the gen 3's need to sit at a minimum of .120" further into the base manifold injector boss. This leaves me two options, reem out the injector boss or trim off the plastic body of the injector. The portion that would be trimmed is in the picture with the red pen.
http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/m...3%20Injectors/

Anyone ever trim up an injector casing? Any recomendations would be appreciated.

 

Man, 50+ views and not one responce.
I want to say that South Bay has been more than deligent with MY issue.

The problem I have run into has NOTHING to do with what I purchased from them but rather the uniqueness of the intake manifold.

I used a die grinder and wood shims in a bench vise to shave down .180" from the plastic injector body by hand. The car will be running tomorrow. I will post up videos shortly.

 

So I got it running and ran into some other issues. First off it may have a vacuum leak. While I was trying to reset the IAC / TPS / timing the following happened.

The battery had died from the car sitting for so long. I plugged the charger in and let it cook for an hour on 6 amps. Started the car and pulled it out of the garage and turned it off. Hooked up the FPR gauge, timing light, scanner, grounded A & B terminals on the ALDL, waited for a minute then tried to start it. No dice. Battery wouldnt turn it over. Hooked it back up to the charger for another 20 minutes. Still no dice.

Unhooked the charger and hooked up a set of jumper cables to my truck ( 2 alternators) and let it charge for 10 minutes. Started it up, shut it down and regrounded A & B. Rolled the key to "run" and waited for a minute then unhooked the AIC and pulled the A & B ground. Started the car. It idled really high with the idle screw all the way in. My brother said he didnt hear clicking from the AIC so I went through the process again. The whole time my truck was still charging the battery. I started the car again. This time it idled a little lower but still above 1000K rpm. I grabbed a propane tourch and waffted it around the leak prone areas. No change in RPM.

I reset the IAC again, this time when it started I revved it up several times to 4K plus. It then back fired once through the intake and died while at 4K. What I didnt realize was that my brother had hooked up the charger along with leaving the jumper cables on my truck. Also revving the engine on the car would have increased voltage from the alternator. Any how, now it wont start and there is no spark top the plugs.

Any suggestions on what to check next??

 

I'd say Check fuses an fusible links 1st..

 

I checked the fuse's, they were all good. Which fusible link should I check?

So far I have done the following -
Uncoupled the ESC wire, no sprk.
Replaced the MSD coil with the stocker, no spark.
Left the stock coil in place and disconnected the MSD 6AL box, no spark.

If I still had the stock distributor I would swap it out for the MSD pro billet, but I dont.

Could the ignition module cause this? I dont think it can becuase the 6AL box should handle the modules duties?

Where should I look next?

 

Just saw this post. I ordered the bosch 3 injectors without the extensions that south bay sells their injectors with, then I trimmed the plastic casing to fit into the manifold injector boss. I have had no leaks at all and use one gasket.

And yes, a bad ignition module will cause no start. Happenned after I first installed my t-ram too.

 

So, I found the problem. Any guesses as to what it was?

I will give you a couple of hints. It is ignition related, and caused by the last major modification I did to the car.

BTW, I am pissed off about this and will be talking to a certain parts manufacture soon about how this happened.......

 

Oh come on dont leave us hanging!

 

Say uncle first....lol.

Actually, not so LOL. I am really pissed off. What happened used to be an issue in the late 80's. It should not have been an issue in 2010 and I told the manufacture when I ordered the part what was going to contact it.

I am probably looking at a complete rebuild now. After I rip up the manufacture I will be probably going to a LS based drive train or just selling the car. I am really getting tired of spending money on a car that is saddled with late 70's technology.

 

Oh wow now ya got me wondering!?!?!?

 

See the issue now?

<a href="http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=DSC_0013.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...h_DSC_0013.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

<a href="http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=DSC_0012.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...h_DSC_0012.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

<a href="http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=DSC_0014.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...h_DSC_0014.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

 

Boy thats not good!
I'm using one of Comps Poly gears. They didnt have the correct size center hole 4 the stock TPI Dizzy shaft sooo I had 2 have a sleeve shim made 4 it.
I pulled it out a lil while ago and no wear on anything yet..

 

The last cam I got from them ran for 10K without any sign of wear. This really sucks. I am guessing the cam gear looks the same. The car has about 1K miles on it since that cam was installed.

Time to yank the engine again and have it gone through. I really dont have the time to do it again.

 

yeah I know what you mean bout pulling the motor. I have 1,500 miles on my last one and its out.. spun 3 cam bearings messed up the cam,1 comp roller rocker, 1intake valve and 5 solid crower HIPPO roller lifter wheels..
thats just what ive found so far.

 

Oh man, that really sucks to see... I'm about to go and yank my distributor now and check my gear. I just put in a TPIS ZZ-409 cam into my car and ordered a brand new GM stock replacement distributor gear. What exactly was the problem? They send you a non-melanized distributor gear?

 

The gear on the dizzy may be eaten up but if the cam is a roller, it will be fine.If it is then get the right gear for the distributor do an oil change and continue on with the build, motor will be fine. Oh and btw I love those intakes they are so sick.

 

I found some info for you strait from the SLP instructions.. It says if your injs are to tall you are supposed to use more top to base gaskets.. Thats not word for word but you get the idea..

 

I havent touched the car in 4 months but did clamp the MSD pro billet distributor in a vise, put a dail indicator on the end of the cam gear and found that the shaft was bent. Not sure if that happened while in the car or if the garage gremlins ( wife, two kids, one cat and one dog) had a run in with it while I was taking my time swapping the heads and cam last year.

Anyone know how to check the runout of the cam gear / alignment of the distributor in relation to cam gear besides dropping another distributor with a bronze / plastic gear in and seeing what happens?

TTOP 350, Thanks for the heads up, but there is more to the story than than what the original instruction mention. I scoured through them before I purchased the injectors. They were printed in 92 and at the time there were only a couple of different injector lengths, and from what I gather the body ( plastic portion) was all the same length and diameters.

If any of you guy need a copy of the original SLP T-Ram install instructions, let me know. There were three different sets, what SLP sent with the manifold depended on which options were ordered. When I bought mine it came with every option so I got multiple sets and described every part and options for installing.

 

Just saw this thread. I find it interesting that the "new" Bosch 3 injectors appear to be .120" higher than the factory injectors. My standard Bosch 3 injectors sit .120" lower than the factory units.

Probably no way around it but I also find it interesting the angle of the injector in the boss. They appear to shoot across the port instead of the back of the intake valve.

As to the distributor gear. I agree with the above in I would just replace the gear and change the oil and filter. Run it a bit and then change the oil and filter again.

 

I remember when we installed those Bosch injectors in JekyllandHyde car, with plenum off it looked like a straight shot right at the intake valve.

 

In addition to running the right material for your gear be sure to add a couple of oil spray groves to the bottom of the distributor to oil the gear. Also be sure to run oil with lots of ZDDP, most oil now days does not have it anymore since all cars now have roller cams. The ZDDP will greatly reduce metal to metal wear. Valvoline VR-1 has it and so does Delo-400 (but not the 400LE).

 

[quote=1989GTATransAm;5112180]Just saw this thread. I find it interesting that the "new" Bosch 3 injectors appear to be .120" higher than the factory injectors. My standard Bosch 3 injectors sit .120" lower than the factory units. quote]

I have pics some where online that show the actual lenghts of TPI vs LS1 vs SVO red tops verified with dial calipers. The longest over all length was the late 80's Bosch injectors. However, there is more to the story. As injectors became shorter the plastic housing became wider and the O-ring seat height changed. The problem with the T-Ram is that there is no adjustment for shorter injectors. When I say shorter, I mean first and formost, the sealing surface. When the O-rings are placed closer together it is a problem. A real problem. Nothing like spraying gasoline all over your engine to get your attention.

 

I tried using is1 injectors on the t-ram and had a fire do to fuel leak,luckily, Ionly lost the distributor cap plug wires and 4 of the injectors. I am running bosch III's now and so far so good.

 

Hers a pic of the Ford Lightning injector that I used. Note on the bottom where there was some grinding done to the plastic. This was necessary to fit the injector to the groove. Have not had any leaks at all.



Also note how I used two sets of O-rings at the bottom. The sealing rings are standard Delco Multec O-rings which I have found to be the thickest ones available. The black o-ring was just there as a redundancy and probably isn't necessary.

 

Are the Ford Lightning injectors the same overall and o-ring to o-ring dimension as "red" SVO injectors?

I have a set of reds, but couldnt get them to seal up.

 

See the difference in length and diameter difference here -
<a href="http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/m...t=DSC_0020.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...h_DSC_0020.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>

Black = stock 88 corvette 24lbers, Red = SVO injectors, Gray = stock LS1, White = LS3.

 

They should be. Prior to running the Ford Lightning injectors, I was running Ford pink top injectors which are 22lbs, and are the same exact casing as the red top. I ran those injectors on two different T-ram lower manifolds as , so they should fit with no problem. At 180 bucks for the set compared to 360 for 36lbers I couldn't go wrong.

Be warned though, tuning these injectors is a major pain in the ***. I'm pretty sure my injectors are way oversized for my application, but I may go turbo in the future so I'm keeping them.