Polished SLP Runners
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 530
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From: Nazareth, PA
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Polished SLP Runners
Finally got my SLP Runners finished, well almost. I need to do just a little more touch up work before I install them. No wonder they charge over a hundred dollars more for the polished version, what a PITA.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 2,760
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From: Cove, Arkansas
Car: 85 Camaro SC
Engine: V6
Transmission: 700r4
Looks good. I noticed something about the large runners, on the top of the flange theres sometimes small harline crack going from one of the tubes thru to the flange. I've had to reject many sets at Street & performance due to that.
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That looks awesome. What grits did you use and how long did you spend on it(each grit). I started doing mine, but I don't have any machines. The only way I could do it is by hand. Think I can get it that nice?
That looks awesome. What grits did you use and how long did you spend on it(each grit). I started doing mine, but I don't have any machines. The only way I could do it is by hand. Think I can get it that nice? Last edited by Thirdgen86TA; Feb 13, 2003 at 10:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 530
Likes: 0
From: Nazareth, PA
Car: 87 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
To answer a few questions:
Thirdgen86TA- I started out with 80 grit on a power sander to get most of the grains off, you can do the same with a sanding block but it will take a little longer. Then 220 to start smoothing it out, this is where you can see the grains you missed with the 80. I follow that with 400 and then 600, wet sanding with both of them. Then the fine paper comes in, 1200 followed by 1500. when I use the 1500 I use an oil we have at work we call cutting oil, like the kind use for drilling, machining, etc,.. This leaves a real nice shine for the final step. Buffing with a spiral buff with Tripoli buffing compound and then white rouge on a loose buff. Both of these on a regular power drill. I get my supplies from Eastwood. Yes you can do it by hand, actually, most of the sanding is done by hand. The curves on the runners don't lend themselves to power tools. I wrapped sandpaper on a pencil to get in all the really tight spots. Just don't rush, I would keep going back over spots I just did when you see grains start to appear after the next sanding steps. The only thing you'll really need to get is the sandpaper and buffing supplies, and once you have them you can polish everything you get your hands on
I get my sandpaper from the local auto part store, and my buffing stuff from www.eastwoodcompany.com . They have pretty good prices and the best supplies.
Trans Am 12 sec- I have approximately 24-28 actual working hours spent on them spread out over a 2-3 week period. I did most of it at work when I had spare time. Let me say this, now that they are done, I would definitely do it again. They look awesome and can't wait to put them on tomorrow.
Scania- I got them directly from SLP performance. I bought them before Christmas when they were on sale for something like $230. That is more than a $100 less than their polished ones.
Thirdgen86TA- I started out with 80 grit on a power sander to get most of the grains off, you can do the same with a sanding block but it will take a little longer. Then 220 to start smoothing it out, this is where you can see the grains you missed with the 80. I follow that with 400 and then 600, wet sanding with both of them. Then the fine paper comes in, 1200 followed by 1500. when I use the 1500 I use an oil we have at work we call cutting oil, like the kind use for drilling, machining, etc,.. This leaves a real nice shine for the final step. Buffing with a spiral buff with Tripoli buffing compound and then white rouge on a loose buff. Both of these on a regular power drill. I get my supplies from Eastwood. Yes you can do it by hand, actually, most of the sanding is done by hand. The curves on the runners don't lend themselves to power tools. I wrapped sandpaper on a pencil to get in all the really tight spots. Just don't rush, I would keep going back over spots I just did when you see grains start to appear after the next sanding steps. The only thing you'll really need to get is the sandpaper and buffing supplies, and once you have them you can polish everything you get your hands on
I get my sandpaper from the local auto part store, and my buffing stuff from www.eastwoodcompany.com . They have pretty good prices and the best supplies.Trans Am 12 sec- I have approximately 24-28 actual working hours spent on them spread out over a 2-3 week period. I did most of it at work when I had spare time. Let me say this, now that they are done, I would definitely do it again. They look awesome and can't wait to put them on tomorrow.
Scania- I got them directly from SLP performance. I bought them before Christmas when they were on sale for something like $230. That is more than a $100 less than their polished ones.
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