I've been planning to add a sort of "sleepy eye" headlight modification most often seen on probes. Instead of having my lights pointing towards the ground, I'm going to install new 6x4" headlights, compatible with 9003 and H4 bulbs.

I was just wondering if anyone had some info on how the headlight motors work. As far as I can figure, there's three possibilities: 1. The motor stops when the headlight can't go any further up. 2. There's a bracket or contact that turns the motor off once the "up" position is reached. 3. The raised height is configured on the motor by dial or relay.

I know I could just leave them half open, but I don't want to compromise the sleek look of the front-end when driving during the day.

Also, which is better: 9003 bulbs or H4 bulbs?

 

Oooo interesting I wanna know more

 

I'd gladly provide pictures and step by step instructions... I just need the info on the headlight motor.

 

Actually, its none of the above.
The headlight motors run for a set period of time. They push the lights up, then continue to run for a few seconds.

 

So... If I build a bracket to prevent the headlights from rising further than a certain amount, it will achieve the desired effect?

 

Well I dont have a firebird so I cant really say for sure. But I dono about it stopping after a set period of time. All of my freinds cars seem to keep going untill the headlight opens completly. One of my freinds had damage to his hood causing his lights not to be able to go up completly. His headlights were super dim and we found out the reason was taht the motors were trying to push up the headlights more. But due to the hood pushing it down it couldnt get it up all the way. The motor was doing this every time he turned on his lights. Luckly we found out before the motor fried. Although I'm guessing you wouldnt want to pay the extra money. Theres a box for imports which can do what you want. You can just plug it into your system and you can even control the height and everything of the headlights from inside the car. Costs like 100 bucks though.

 

I guess I'm going to have to tear up my front end to check...

 

It's been a few monthes since I posted any progress, but here is an update...

I ended up having to tear the whole front body off the car, so I had a chance to check the bracket. There are two bolts/stoppers that stop the lower part of the raising bracket.

I'm sure if I install longer stoppers, and just back them out far, it would be all the modification I would need to do to the bracket.

As for headlights, should I just goto the junk yard and find something the right size, or should I get a 4x6" fixture or 2 round headlights? The original size is 6x8", and I'm aiming for 4x8".

As for wiring, I have no idea... Couldn't I just get insulated connectors with rubber boots, and attach the respective wires to the news bulb(s)? Also, if I did the double round headlights, would there be any certain wiring scheme I would need to follow and would headlight relays interfere?

 

Just a thought...

If I use round headlights, couldn't I leave the original bezel, and route the air through to the brakes?

 

i have no clue what the hell you are talking about but it sounds great. I have a firebird also. Pics!!!!!!!!:hail:

 

That's.. not exactly correct.

 

The lights move until they hit their stops - when they hit their stops, the motors stop (the motors sense the increased resistance or something like that). If you adjust, or add, some type of rubber stop or bumper before the stock one, it'll stop there.

Do a search - there's been discussion on this before.

S.

 

*shrug* My motors keep running for a few seconds after the lights are all the way up..... Seems like they're timed.
Just my experience.....

 

As far as I know, this is the discussion from before, but I'll do a search anyways.

I'm probally going to end u trying to find an old set from a junkyard. It would be cheaper, and I'd probally be able to find something that plugs in.

 

This is the redraif project, that's been seen on this forum several times before. It's not the same as I was planning, but I'm sure the wiring would be similar.

And by relay, anybody know which relay does she means?

 

That was the same warning my lamps gave before the bushing went terminal.
They do stop with resistance as stated by Steve and as I figured out when I did my headlight mod

I believe the older (1st) style motors used limit switches instead of resistance but, I've never dealt with the 1st type motors so I can't say that for certain.

 

Iwas told that earlier birds' headlight motors had a built in resistance sensor, but later ones operate differently. I'm not sure on the specifics, but the existence of the stoppers prove my theory, at least in my case.

 

I found some sealed beams that might work...

Unfortunately, the 50x135mm (2x5.3in) is low-beam only, but it might be possible to use 2 sets per headlight, i guess.

The 100x165mm (4x6.5in) one would probally be the best fit, and would leave enough room for a small driving light. And it would also have the same connector, which should eliminate wiring.

What do you guys think?

 

nothing wrong with your motors if you hear then running. problem is the three plastic bushings that are in the worm gear housing. hawks has a repair kit for like $25 bucks. just repaired mine. works like new. oh, and the relays do sense resistance when the bracket hits the stops shutting off the motor. hope this helps.