Door Jambs and such.
#1
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Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: N/A
Transmission: N/A
Door Jambs and such.
Alright, my car is red, and I am prepping it to paint it ANY color.
I may go with red again, orange, black who knows.
(FYI, I am doing black because IMO it goes with any color, if I do my car orange, black door jambs would look fine, if I do my car white, black door jambs will look fine. But Red would not, I dont want a black car with red door jambs, or a silver car with red door jambs)
Morale of the story is I am changing the color of all the interior metal (under the carpet and headliner) to black,
Under the carpet it is no big deal, I can use pretty cheap paint because it wont see a lot of action.
But for the door jambs, trunk jamb and various other spots, what type of paint should I use?
I figure duplicolor primer with duplicolor black should work just fine, but I have heard spray paint doesnt hold moisture out. So should I buy a quart of black latex paint or something and paint it on? Or will spray paint hold off moisture and prevent rust?
And what is the most durable spray paint? Krylon fusion on metal seems like it would be effective. But durability isnt a huge problem since if it starts to scratch I can just touch up really easy.
Thanks for any advice
-Eric
I may go with red again, orange, black who knows.
(FYI, I am doing black because IMO it goes with any color, if I do my car orange, black door jambs would look fine, if I do my car white, black door jambs will look fine. But Red would not, I dont want a black car with red door jambs, or a silver car with red door jambs)
Morale of the story is I am changing the color of all the interior metal (under the carpet and headliner) to black,
Under the carpet it is no big deal, I can use pretty cheap paint because it wont see a lot of action.
But for the door jambs, trunk jamb and various other spots, what type of paint should I use?
I figure duplicolor primer with duplicolor black should work just fine, but I have heard spray paint doesnt hold moisture out. So should I buy a quart of black latex paint or something and paint it on? Or will spray paint hold off moisture and prevent rust?
And what is the most durable spray paint? Krylon fusion on metal seems like it would be effective. But durability isnt a huge problem since if it starts to scratch I can just touch up really easy.
Thanks for any advice
-Eric
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Car: 1982 Firebird
Engine: sbc 307
Transmission: 200
It'd be best to just get the jams and under the hatch areas painted when the cars painted. I dont think it'd look as good with black jams and a different color body. I would also be concerned about how to join the 2 different paints, there'd have to be some sort of dividing line between the two. Youre better off just getting those areas painted when the body is painted.
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Car: 1983 Trans Am
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Is it extra to get the jambs painted though.
Remember, pretzels and beer budget.
Aside from that, I have (will have) a black interior so it should flow well.
Remember, pretzels and beer budget.
Aside from that, I have (will have) a black interior so it should flow well.
#4
I back the idea of getting you jambs and such painted when you spray the car. May cost more but it could look "tacky" if the are a different color and may be noticable when the doors are closed
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Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: N/A
Transmission: N/A
Well...
I will try it, and if it doesnt work, then I will get it painted with the rest of the car.
I mean, I am getting the engine bay painted black, and the lower half the car.
So it should work well.
See how it is black below the body line. I am doing that, except without the metal flake red.
I will try it, and if it doesnt work, then I will get it painted with the rest of the car.
I mean, I am getting the engine bay painted black, and the lower half the car.
So it should work well.
See how it is black below the body line. I am doing that, except without the metal flake red.
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Car: 2003 Mach 1
Usually, the extra $$$$ involved in spraying door jambs and such is labor for prepping.
The shop that painted my dads car didn't charge him extra for jambs and inner truck because he prepped them himself. Might wanna ask about that.
The shop that painted my dads car didn't charge him extra for jambs and inner truck because he prepped them himself. Might wanna ask about that.
#7
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nothing screams "half assed" like off-colored door jams. I can completely understand being on a tight budget, but if you're getting a paint job of any quality at all, you're paying enough that an extra hundred or two for door jams really shouldn't bust the wallet wide open.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
They are right about being able to see the other color even with the door closed. I saw a car like that. It ruined the whole paint job... Esp if the jams were done with a rattle can...the finish is never as good as if it comes out of a gun... It would be painfully obvious what was done against a fresh paint job on the exterior...I would rather wait an extra month or 2 to paint the car and save some more $ up to get the jams done right!
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Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: N/A
Transmission: N/A
I hate it when everyone is right.
For the engine bay. Since it will be black.
Should I just get the part of the front fender that lips over painted, and then have the rest left black?
And prepping it myself.
If I just 80 grit and went to bare metal. Would that be sufficient?
For the engine bay. Since it will be black.
Should I just get the part of the front fender that lips over painted, and then have the rest left black?
And prepping it myself.
If I just 80 grit and went to bare metal. Would that be sufficient?
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If I just 80 grit and went to bare metal. Would that be sufficient?
For the love of *** dont do that. All you really need to do is hit the jams with some 600 maybe a little 400. What youre trying to do is remove the clear coat basically. If you take it down to bare metal theyll have to prep and prime it so the paint will have something to stick too, and so it will seal properly. After you get the clear off smooth it out with some 1000/1200 till its not rough feeling. The get a rag and get it damp with some mineral spirits and wipe it all down. Once its in the shop to be painted itll still need to be tacked, but that should be sufficient to paint over.
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
On the engine bay...we used satin and sprayed up to the fender lip like you stated...the fender top and inner edge should be body color...check out my site...
Black engine bay repaint...
We throughly degreased...scuffed the original paint with red scotch brite, except for the areas with deep scratches. There we sanded it smooth. Used dish soap and washed it to remove finger oils...then used paint prep. And then reprimed the spot we went thru to the metal. Then we shot over all of it with Duplicolor satin black...no clear I liked the mild sheen better.
Black engine bay repaint...
We throughly degreased...scuffed the original paint with red scotch brite, except for the areas with deep scratches. There we sanded it smooth. Used dish soap and washed it to remove finger oils...then used paint prep. And then reprimed the spot we went thru to the metal. Then we shot over all of it with Duplicolor satin black...no clear I liked the mild sheen better.
#12
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Originally posted by Midnight Sun
I hate it when everyone is right.
For the engine bay. Since it will be black.
Should I just get the part of the front fender that lips over painted, and then have the rest left black?
And prepping it myself.
If I just 80 grit and went to bare metal. Would that be sufficient?
I hate it when everyone is right.
For the engine bay. Since it will be black.
Should I just get the part of the front fender that lips over painted, and then have the rest left black?
And prepping it myself.
If I just 80 grit and went to bare metal. Would that be sufficient?
2. don't go near it with 80!!!!!!!!!!!! Like mentioned above, just lightly sand it with 400 or 600 grit paper. You don't even need to remove the clear coat... you just need to sand it so that paint will adhere to it. Sand it enough so that it's not shiny but you don't see any actual scratches. It should just wind up being a dull finish when it's sanded properly.
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Car: 1983 Trans Am
Engine: N/A
Transmission: N/A
I have done some experimenting, and I am going to paint my door jambs.
Only because I had to use some POR15 and stuff, but I was looking on how the door closes, and what you can see and what you cant.
When it is completely done I will post pics, I think it is gonna turn out well. And like I said, with the black interior, the black jambs wont be too awkward.
Only because I had to use some POR15 and stuff, but I was looking on how the door closes, and what you can see and what you cant.
When it is completely done I will post pics, I think it is gonna turn out well. And like I said, with the black interior, the black jambs wont be too awkward.
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: Door Jambs and such.
As was mentioned having the door jams/etc. painted along with the rest of the car would be best ,but if not at least paint the jams/etc. with a color that is as close to the body paint as you can get. That should at least blend in better.
Also, It takes a professional painter about 10 minutes to shoot all the parts you're skeptical about.(that's if you do the prep) Taping takes longer.
What ball park financially are you expecting to pay for a paint job like the one in your photo ?
Also, It takes a professional painter about 10 minutes to shoot all the parts you're skeptical about.(that's if you do the prep) Taping takes longer.
What ball park financially are you expecting to pay for a paint job like the one in your photo ?
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; 10-01-2013 at 10:26 PM.
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Car: 89 Black IROC-Z convertible
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