Lokar Throttle cable, install info and pics.
06-27-2004, 12:57 PM
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Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Lokar Throttle cable, install info and pics.
Since I did a search before I bought it and didn't find too much detailed information, I figured I would post on the install. The feeble 305 isn't so bad now that I can actually hit WOT, the old cable was frayed and streched I guess..
Out of the box, you'll think they sent the wrong throttle cable as nothing looks like it would fit very well. Once you get your old one out you'll see that it's going to take the merging of the two to get it to work right. (sure you could fab stuff up and only use what Lokar sends you, but I wanted a more stock look and function)
Getting the old cable off was the hardest part. Getting it off of the TB was easy, hold open the throttle to get some slack on the cable, run the cable out of the guide and slide the pin out on the end. Push the two tabs on the plenum mount in and slide the cable out.
Inside the car, remove the back lower column cover (one nut, three clips). Follow the gas pedal up to the top and you should see a plastic retainer. Pop that out towards the rear of the car and slide the cable out out of the slot. Follow the cable to the firewall and you should see a large (2") rubber seal of some type. Take a small screw driver and pry it forward until it pops off the firewall grommet. Now the hard part. The grommet is held in the firewall with two tabs similar to the plenum mount. It's hard to get a hand up there to squeeze both at the same time. I had to push in with a screw driver, hold it there with said screwdriver, then bring another one in to push the other side. Once it's out, remove the cable from the car.
The lokar comes with the early style TB mount attached and the later style in the package. Regardless of what is attached, remove it and pull the inner cable out. Also remove the metal pedal clamp attached to the other end.
On your old throttle cable, cut either end and pull the inner cable out. Save the plastic pedal retainer, we will use this later. Now, cut the outer jacket right as it enters the firewall grommet. This will leave about an inch of the outer jacket still in the grommet. It must be molded in there, because I was unable to pull it out whole.
Once you cut the outer jacket, you should see about 15 or so wire strands that made up the outer jacket still in the grommet. Pull these out one by one untill you just have plastic from the outer jacket still in the grommet.
With all the metal of the outer jacket gone, procede to drill out the hole in the grommet with a 1/4" bit. Keep in mind the hole is angled in relation to the flat part of the grommet. Find the end of the Lokar outer cable where there is only one nut (The cable almost looks the same on both ends, one has double nuts on threaded rod for adjustment, the other end has only one nut) Remove the single nut and thread the cable into the grommet. Takes a little bit to get started, but a couple of adjustable wrenches makes the job easy. This gives you the stock grommet with the lokar cable attached like a factory one.
Now take the inner cable and slide the pedal retainer towards the end with the ball attached (should look just like the stock cable did) Slide the inner cable through the outer cable and push the grommet back through the fire wall. Slide the cable through the slot in the pedal and push the retainer in.
Back up top, remove one of the nuts from the TB end of the cable and slide the cable through the stock cable mount on the plenum. Put the nut back onto the Lokar cable. This is your adjustment point. I would attach it so that the two nuts are centered on the threaded portion. Once you cut the inner cable this will let you have a little more or a little less slack. Tighten the two nuts (they get wedged in the square opening on the plenum pretty good).
Pull the cable tight and line it up against the TB cable guides. Get a really good estimate of where the end of the cable will be when the car is at idle. Now cut the inner cable there. Attach the brass end cap on the very end of the wire, slide the cable through the guide like the stock cable, and let the end cap pin rest in the hole. If you have the earlier style TB, I can't help you but it should be close to the same only with the other style cable end.
In the pic below you can see:
The older style TB connecter that I didn't use.
The new style is the brass nut on the TB assembly. It basically works the same as the stock pin, but has a hex head and set bolt for clamping it to the cable.
The stock firewall grommet with the lokar cable 'threaded' into it.
And finally the pedal clamp Lokar sent on the cable that you need to remove to use the stock plastic retainer.
Out of the box, you'll think they sent the wrong throttle cable as nothing looks like it would fit very well. Once you get your old one out you'll see that it's going to take the merging of the two to get it to work right. (sure you could fab stuff up and only use what Lokar sends you, but I wanted a more stock look and function)
Getting the old cable off was the hardest part. Getting it off of the TB was easy, hold open the throttle to get some slack on the cable, run the cable out of the guide and slide the pin out on the end. Push the two tabs on the plenum mount in and slide the cable out.
Inside the car, remove the back lower column cover (one nut, three clips). Follow the gas pedal up to the top and you should see a plastic retainer. Pop that out towards the rear of the car and slide the cable out out of the slot. Follow the cable to the firewall and you should see a large (2") rubber seal of some type. Take a small screw driver and pry it forward until it pops off the firewall grommet. Now the hard part. The grommet is held in the firewall with two tabs similar to the plenum mount. It's hard to get a hand up there to squeeze both at the same time. I had to push in with a screw driver, hold it there with said screwdriver, then bring another one in to push the other side. Once it's out, remove the cable from the car.
The lokar comes with the early style TB mount attached and the later style in the package. Regardless of what is attached, remove it and pull the inner cable out. Also remove the metal pedal clamp attached to the other end.
On your old throttle cable, cut either end and pull the inner cable out. Save the plastic pedal retainer, we will use this later. Now, cut the outer jacket right as it enters the firewall grommet. This will leave about an inch of the outer jacket still in the grommet. It must be molded in there, because I was unable to pull it out whole.
Once you cut the outer jacket, you should see about 15 or so wire strands that made up the outer jacket still in the grommet. Pull these out one by one untill you just have plastic from the outer jacket still in the grommet.
With all the metal of the outer jacket gone, procede to drill out the hole in the grommet with a 1/4" bit. Keep in mind the hole is angled in relation to the flat part of the grommet. Find the end of the Lokar outer cable where there is only one nut (The cable almost looks the same on both ends, one has double nuts on threaded rod for adjustment, the other end has only one nut) Remove the single nut and thread the cable into the grommet. Takes a little bit to get started, but a couple of adjustable wrenches makes the job easy. This gives you the stock grommet with the lokar cable attached like a factory one.
Now take the inner cable and slide the pedal retainer towards the end with the ball attached (should look just like the stock cable did) Slide the inner cable through the outer cable and push the grommet back through the fire wall. Slide the cable through the slot in the pedal and push the retainer in.
Back up top, remove one of the nuts from the TB end of the cable and slide the cable through the stock cable mount on the plenum. Put the nut back onto the Lokar cable. This is your adjustment point. I would attach it so that the two nuts are centered on the threaded portion. Once you cut the inner cable this will let you have a little more or a little less slack. Tighten the two nuts (they get wedged in the square opening on the plenum pretty good).
Pull the cable tight and line it up against the TB cable guides. Get a really good estimate of where the end of the cable will be when the car is at idle. Now cut the inner cable there. Attach the brass end cap on the very end of the wire, slide the cable through the guide like the stock cable, and let the end cap pin rest in the hole. If you have the earlier style TB, I can't help you but it should be close to the same only with the other style cable end.
In the pic below you can see:
The older style TB connecter that I didn't use.
The new style is the brass nut on the TB assembly. It basically works the same as the stock pin, but has a hex head and set bolt for clamping it to the cable.
The stock firewall grommet with the lokar cable 'threaded' into it.
And finally the pedal clamp Lokar sent on the cable that you need to remove to use the stock plastic retainer.
06-27-2004, 12:58 PM
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Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
And the finished product, a great looking upgrade from the stock black! Once the T56 goes in and the TV cable is gone, I'll probably get their cruise cable and duel cable plenum mount too.
06-27-2004, 02:23 PM
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by therckid
wrong forum, should be in general engine
wrong forum, should be in general engine
06-27-2004, 02:24 PM
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Car: NCC-1701-D (docked in AZ)
Engine: impulse drive
Transmission: fusion reactors
Axle/Gears: Rescued from the Borg by my crew
Originally posted by shr00m
And the finished product, a great looking upgrade from the stock black! Once the T56 goes in and the TV cable is gone, I'll probably get their cruise cable and duel cable plenum mount too.
And the finished product, a great looking upgrade from the stock black! Once the T56 goes in and the TV cable is gone, I'll probably get their cruise cable and duel cable plenum mount too.
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02-06-2006, 10:24 PM
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
wow i bought the TPI cable from Jegs for the new motor and didnt know it wouldnt bolt right up...thanks for the write up!
02-06-2006, 10:48 PM
#9
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Originally posted by CamarosRUS
wow i bought the TPI cable from Jegs for the new motor and didnt know it wouldnt bolt right up...thanks for the write up!
wow i bought the TPI cable from Jegs for the new motor and didnt know it wouldnt bolt right up...thanks for the write up!
Time flies...
02-06-2006, 11:24 PM
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Car: 1992 Jade Green---Trans Am Converti
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Probably because I just listed the cable for sale in the classifieds and pointed to it.. 
Kevin D.
Kevin D.
01-11-2009, 10:38 PM
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Re: Lokar Throttle cable, install info and pics.
Wow, guess I "exhumed" it again...isn't that the point of a FUKCING search?
Sorry but it gets on my nerve the first thing out of many members mouths (or fingers?) is to search (which I fully support) but then when that happens someone has to be a smartass about it. What does it matter if the post is 2 months, 2 years, or 2 damn decades old if the info within it is still valid and relevant?
Still havn't installed my 2 year old throttle cable yet and found this again in my favorites. So, thanks again for taking the time to write it up Kevin.
Sorry but it gets on my nerve the first thing out of many members mouths (or fingers?) is to search (which I fully support) but then when that happens someone has to be a smartass about it. What does it matter if the post is 2 months, 2 years, or 2 damn decades old if the info within it is still valid and relevant?
Still havn't installed my 2 year old throttle cable yet and found this again in my favorites. So, thanks again for taking the time to write it up Kevin.
03-23-2016, 01:41 PM
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Car: 1984 T/A
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Ford 8.8 4.10 gears
Re: Lokar Throttle cable, install info and pics.
Since I did a search before I bought it and didn't find too much detailed information, I figured I would post on the install. The feeble 305 isn't so bad now that I can actually hit WOT, the old cable was frayed and streched I guess..
Out of the box, you'll think they sent the wrong throttle cable as nothing looks like it would fit very well. Once you get your old one out you'll see that it's going to take the merging of the two to get it to work right. (sure you could fab stuff up and only use what Lokar sends you, but I wanted a more stock look and function)
Getting the old cable off was the hardest part. Getting it off of the TB was easy, hold open the throttle to get some slack on the cable, run the cable out of the guide and slide the pin out on the end. Push the two tabs on the plenum mount in and slide the cable out.
Inside the car, remove the back lower column cover (one nut, three clips). Follow the gas pedal up to the top and you should see a plastic retainer. Pop that out towards the rear of the car and slide the cable out out of the slot. Follow the cable to the firewall and you should see a large (2") rubber seal of some type. Take a small screw driver and pry it forward until it pops off the firewall grommet. Now the hard part. The grommet is held in the firewall with two tabs similar to the plenum mount. It's hard to get a hand up there to squeeze both at the same time. I had to push in with a screw driver, hold it there with said screwdriver, then bring another one in to push the other side. Once it's out, remove the cable from the car.
The lokar comes with the early style TB mount attached and the later style in the package. Regardless of what is attached, remove it and pull the inner cable out. Also remove the metal pedal clamp attached to the other end.
On your old throttle cable, cut either end and pull the inner cable out. Save the plastic pedal retainer, we will use this later. Now, cut the outer jacket right as it enters the firewall grommet. This will leave about an inch of the outer jacket still in the grommet. It must be molded in there, because I was unable to pull it out whole.
Once you cut the outer jacket, you should see about 15 or so wire strands that made up the outer jacket still in the grommet. Pull these out one by one untill you just have plastic from the outer jacket still in the grommet.
With all the metal of the outer jacket gone, procede to drill out the hole in the grommet with a 1/4" bit. Keep in mind the hole is angled in relation to the flat part of the grommet. Find the end of the Lokar outer cable where there is only one nut (The cable almost looks the same on both ends, one has double nuts on threaded rod for adjustment, the other end has only one nut) Remove the single nut and thread the cable into the grommet. Takes a little bit to get started, but a couple of adjustable wrenches makes the job easy. This gives you the stock grommet with the lokar cable attached like a factory one.
Now take the inner cable and slide the pedal retainer towards the end with the ball attached (should look just like the stock cable did) Slide the inner cable through the outer cable and push the grommet back through the fire wall. Slide the cable through the slot in the pedal and push the retainer in.
Back up top, remove one of the nuts from the TB end of the cable and slide the cable through the stock cable mount on the plenum. Put the nut back onto the Lokar cable. This is your adjustment point. I would attach it so that the two nuts are centered on the threaded portion. Once you cut the inner cable this will let you have a little more or a little less slack. Tighten the two nuts (they get wedged in the square opening on the plenum pretty good).
Pull the cable tight and line it up against the TB cable guides. Get a really good estimate of where the end of the cable will be when the car is at idle. Now cut the inner cable there. Attach the brass end cap on the very end of the wire, slide the cable through the guide like the stock cable, and let the end cap pin rest in the hole. If you have the earlier style TB, I can't help you but it should be close to the same only with the other style cable end.
In the pic below you can see:
The older style TB connecter that I didn't use.
The new style is the brass nut on the TB assembly. It basically works the same as the stock pin, but has a hex head and set bolt for clamping it to the cable.
The stock firewall grommet with the lokar cable 'threaded' into it.
And finally the pedal clamp Lokar sent on the cable that you need to remove to use the stock plastic retainer.
Out of the box, you'll think they sent the wrong throttle cable as nothing looks like it would fit very well. Once you get your old one out you'll see that it's going to take the merging of the two to get it to work right. (sure you could fab stuff up and only use what Lokar sends you, but I wanted a more stock look and function)
Getting the old cable off was the hardest part. Getting it off of the TB was easy, hold open the throttle to get some slack on the cable, run the cable out of the guide and slide the pin out on the end. Push the two tabs on the plenum mount in and slide the cable out.
Inside the car, remove the back lower column cover (one nut, three clips). Follow the gas pedal up to the top and you should see a plastic retainer. Pop that out towards the rear of the car and slide the cable out out of the slot. Follow the cable to the firewall and you should see a large (2") rubber seal of some type. Take a small screw driver and pry it forward until it pops off the firewall grommet. Now the hard part. The grommet is held in the firewall with two tabs similar to the plenum mount. It's hard to get a hand up there to squeeze both at the same time. I had to push in with a screw driver, hold it there with said screwdriver, then bring another one in to push the other side. Once it's out, remove the cable from the car.
The lokar comes with the early style TB mount attached and the later style in the package. Regardless of what is attached, remove it and pull the inner cable out. Also remove the metal pedal clamp attached to the other end.
On your old throttle cable, cut either end and pull the inner cable out. Save the plastic pedal retainer, we will use this later. Now, cut the outer jacket right as it enters the firewall grommet. This will leave about an inch of the outer jacket still in the grommet. It must be molded in there, because I was unable to pull it out whole.
Once you cut the outer jacket, you should see about 15 or so wire strands that made up the outer jacket still in the grommet. Pull these out one by one untill you just have plastic from the outer jacket still in the grommet.
With all the metal of the outer jacket gone, procede to drill out the hole in the grommet with a 1/4" bit. Keep in mind the hole is angled in relation to the flat part of the grommet. Find the end of the Lokar outer cable where there is only one nut (The cable almost looks the same on both ends, one has double nuts on threaded rod for adjustment, the other end has only one nut) Remove the single nut and thread the cable into the grommet. Takes a little bit to get started, but a couple of adjustable wrenches makes the job easy. This gives you the stock grommet with the lokar cable attached like a factory one.
Now take the inner cable and slide the pedal retainer towards the end with the ball attached (should look just like the stock cable did) Slide the inner cable through the outer cable and push the grommet back through the fire wall. Slide the cable through the slot in the pedal and push the retainer in.
Back up top, remove one of the nuts from the TB end of the cable and slide the cable through the stock cable mount on the plenum. Put the nut back onto the Lokar cable. This is your adjustment point. I would attach it so that the two nuts are centered on the threaded portion. Once you cut the inner cable this will let you have a little more or a little less slack. Tighten the two nuts (they get wedged in the square opening on the plenum pretty good).
Pull the cable tight and line it up against the TB cable guides. Get a really good estimate of where the end of the cable will be when the car is at idle. Now cut the inner cable there. Attach the brass end cap on the very end of the wire, slide the cable through the guide like the stock cable, and let the end cap pin rest in the hole. If you have the earlier style TB, I can't help you but it should be close to the same only with the other style cable end.
In the pic below you can see:
The older style TB connecter that I didn't use.
The new style is the brass nut on the TB assembly. It basically works the same as the stock pin, but has a hex head and set bolt for clamping it to the cable.
The stock firewall grommet with the lokar cable 'threaded' into it.
And finally the pedal clamp Lokar sent on the cable that you need to remove to use the stock plastic retainer.
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