My car needs to be repainted, i only have about $600 to spend, would i get a pretty good one for that much?

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1991 Z28 Camaro L98
5.7 T.P.I. (350)
http://www.bright.net/~rwig/BandetZ28.jpg

http://www.bright.net/~rwig/BandetZ28-2.jpg

 

Where do you live? I can recommend someone who can do it around $1000 show quality.

It all depends on who you go to. What type of paint..etc..

You have a few choices. Most popular are urethane which is very durable.

Or base/clear coat. What your car came with from the factory. The base/clear coats clear coat yellows after a few years if weatherd.

The urethane has integrated clear coat so you won't have to worry about it. If you live on the east coast, look up a guy named Len in Jersey. His website is autobodystore.com He's a good guy.

 

I live in south carolina. i have no clue which paint would be best, the summer is pretty hot between 94-102 degrees.

 

Good paint doesn't yellow. Waxing your car with silicone-based waxes makes it yellow. I've also never heard of an "integrated clear coat" paint. Not really a clear coating if it's mixed in with the color. The closest thing is a single stage paint, which is the traditional style non clear coat paint. I also have serious doubts whether you're going to get any sort of quality (nevermind show quality) for $1,000. Materials cost that much on a top notch paint job. My father owns a body shop, so I got my materials at cost and it still ran me well over $600 not including body work materials. A good paint job will run you a minimum of $1500. A show quality paint job will START at $4500 or more.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Well Jim is sort of correct. First it depends what kind of paint you buy. I would recomend Dupont, PPG, and I cant remember the name of the other other. The german cars use it though but none of them are cheap. You could get Shermin Williams which is cheap. If you are going to do it your self you are going to save a lot of money too. As for the intergrated clear coat I have seen it before. My cousin used to work at Macco. He did LOTS of these. Basically you put the clear in the color and it looks like a lacqure paint job. I think it looks like crap but to each his own. It has no real protection abilities, but it uses less color that way and less time for the painter. I wouldnt recomend this at all. Save your money some more or just go to Macco.

James

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If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy

 

Sherwin Williams paint is every bit as good as PPG and Dupont. Their polyurethane paint is the same stuff. My father uses it exclusively. It is VERY durable stuff, and with the new clear coat formula that they just came out with, it flows like glass. In my area it's the same price as PPG and Dupont.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

I am just saying I would never use Shermin's paint. My cousin is a good painter and he never cared for the stuff. But the shop may have been buying a less expensive type of their paint. He said it didnt flow out as well as the Dupont. I dont know myself. I have seen the difference between the Shermin and Dupont and Dupont look s better hands down. Ask the guy (whoever he may be) what he thinks about the different paints. If you are going to do it I would buy PPG or Glasserit (I remembered the name). But if you are going to take it to a shop ask them what they would recomend. Like I said I would save your money a while longer and do it right the first time. I am having my cousin paint my car and he said we will probably spend 1000 to 1500 in supplies depending on what I want to do and how much the place is where we get the paint.

James

 

I took it to one place and asked how much to repaint the entire car,and they went out and looked it over, them went inside and brought up the price up on a computer and gave me a quote of what they wpuld charge me on paper, it was "$675!" ans i saw a red eclipes they just painted and it looked pretty good.

Ill call tomarro and find out exactly what type of paint they use, and what they do and post it to see what you guys think. Cool?

As long as its a DEEP unfaded looking shiny black color, and last for at least 3yrs ill be happy.

[This message has been edited by KamaroZ350 (edited September 28, 2000).]

 

Not to argue here (I swear that's not my intent ) but my father has used PPG and dupont in the past. He has had identical results with all 3 products, and uses Sherwin Williams because that's what they sell at his favorite parts store. I can only speak for their polyurethane paints though, because my father won't use the cheap stuff from ANY company. The cheap stuff is cheap for a reason. I might take a picture today if I get a chance. There's a van that my dad 2-toned back in 95. Since then it's never been washed and the guy has beat the hell out of it in multiple small accidents. I drove by it yesterday and it shined like hell. Amazed me to no end. The Polyurethane paints are some EXTREMELY durable paints. After I unmasked my car, I saved a couple pieces of masking tape that had paint on them. Weeks later I went back to them and folded the tape over on itself, crumpled it, then unfolded it. The paint didn't crack, crease or in any other way become disfigured. Good, good stuff.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

A place called "Peaches" is useing sherman williams "enamel" paint, their work looks good, the only difference is that right now i have stock paint right, it looks real smooth, kinda like panted leather shoes, and this paint their useing looks kinda like an Orange(the fruit) texture when you look into it. This place was called "Peaches" $675 And itll take a week.

The next place "ECONO" cost $300, their job looks almost like peaches finishes, but they they say it wil only take 2 days, which sounds to fast to me to be a good job. The paint they use is a Single Stage Synthetic Enimal".

My other option so far, is The Chevy Dealer Body shop, my dads friend works their, he painted my moms Escort awhile back for $700 at the dealership, and that was a hook up, my car will probabily cost more becaus its bigger, but ill probabily get done up right since its probabily like a stock paint job, im expecting it'll cost around $1,000, im calling the guy tonight to see what kinda deal he'll give me.

 

Well I would not paint a car if it costed 600.00 or more for paint and materials sounds like prices is high where some of you all live or some one is ripping some one else off I know from experience and my buddy owns a body shop and has for 30 years and we can produce show quaility paint jobs for 2000.00 that was on a 57 chevy show car and we are preparing to paint a GTO I have seen some people on here with some crazy prices.

 

Severe orange peel is a sign of cheap paint or an unskilled painter. Some orange peel is inevitable, but a better clear coat that can flow better will eliminate severe orange peel. Sherwin Williams has been using a new formula for their clear for about 9 months now (right after we painted mine :mad that flows like glass. My father hasn't buffed a single car since he went to the new formula. Orange peel can also be minimized by flowing the paint a little heavy, but you need to know the fine line between smooth paint and runs. That's where the painter's talent comes into play. The new eurethane paints seem to flow really well but tend not to sag or run if you get a little heavy.

Any of you guys that are getting a $1000 or less paint job and think you're getting a first class job don't understand what painting is all about or you would realize why good paint jobs cost more. A show quality paint job for $2,000 isn't unreasonable if that doesn't include disassembly and re-assembly. Taking my car apart for paint took almost a week and took just as long to put it back together. Figure it out by the hour and even at a rate of $35 an hour, that comes out to $2100 just in labor, not including paint time and materials. Materials for my car came to over $600. That's $2700 before body work and before paint time. Since my car needed a TON of body work, and because we were extremely fussy, it wound up in the bay for 2 months. Add that up at $35 an hour.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Are you looking for a paint job that'll hold you for a lil while (few years) or wanna go all out? Since it seems like you're on a budget, for the amount you wanna pay, looks like you'll be getting another paint job after some years. I'm in the same situation and needed my car re-painted. I plan to get a top-notch paint job in a few years but till then I needed something to hold me so I took mine to Macco. You'll hear good and bad stories about them. If there's one in you area, go over there and see for yourself the work they do. Luckily, the local Macco where I live have good credit. I'm getting my entire car re-painted for $700 and that also includes getting my left quarter panel fixed (it's smashed). Since you're looking for "decent" paint job, this may be an option. As others have said, if you're looking for showroom quality...better save some more money. I should be getting my car back from Macco tomorrow. I'll post before and after shots so you can see what I got done for $700 at Macco. I've also heard of Peaches, they had a shop here but it went out of business (keep that in mind).

 

I think im getting the chevy body shop part dealership to repaint it for around $1k, and im almost certain this paint job is worth ALOT more, i just know the guy over the service dept. I just hope it he comes through.

 

I'll have to agree with Jim IROC. I had an '84 Firebird painted back in '88 and it ran $2200. Granted, it had some left front damage (fender, nose, headlight) that jacked up the cost, but the end result was excellent. Without the damage the cost would have been lower, but I can't remember the details...too many margarita's. Anyway, good work does not come cheap...

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90 TBI 305 Formula
Original Owner
Auto Trans, T-Tops
Completely Stock Except:
--Flow Cooler water pump
--180 T-stat

 

I just dropped my car off today to get it repainted, im getting my buddy that works at "Love Cheverolet"auto body portion of the place to repaint it, and fix all my dings/dents, and some damage i have on the right front fender, and brand new Z28 emblems he's useing a base/clear coat or some crap like that. He's only charging me $1000, and this is a kick a$$ paint job i normially couldnt afford becaus if some1 brought their car of the street they would pay over $4000 he said, he said he'll do the body work as he goes for free becaus he dosent wanna paint over it.

I left my camaro out back behind the dealership for about 3hrs and i already miss the crap out of it, i cant stand being camaroless, im borrowing my uncles old beater 1990 Blazer that shuts off everytime you take a sharp left hand turn , but DAM& i cant wait to get my Z back and post some pics of that sexy motha fuka .

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1991 Z28 Camaro L98
5.7 T.P.I. (350)

http://www.bright.net/~rwig/BandetZ28.jpg
http://www.bright.net/~rwig/BandetZ28-2.jpg

 

The paint job really depends on the amount of body work that has to be done Like JIM said some orange peel is unavoidable but not large areas of this I have had real good luck with PPG but that is because they will make special order products for reasonable prices I have heard some good things about sherwin williams also although I have no personal experience with it. I continue to do body work myself but only partime I like it as a hobby. You can save yourself some money by doing a few little things yourself like taking off your inner fenders and removing those mud flaps if your car has them take out your tailights make sure you get paint back there also the only problem with taking off these parts yourself is that if you do this and scratch your new paint when reinstalling them then that is your problem if the shop does it then they have to fix it. But to me it is worth the risk.

 

Another chain like Maaco but much better is Earl Scheib. A friens of mine got his '89 RS painted there and it looks GREAT, especially for the price. He got the pro 3 package and it has a good warranty and everything. It was about $550.00. The web site is www.earlscheib.com

 

KAMARO-
You think you miss your car? I've been waiting on mine for 10 weeks now, started stripping the paint myself in July, so it's been a hell of a long time since I've driven it. The guy works out of a shop behind his house (it's actually bigger than his house, his priorities are right where they need to be) and has been taking in a LOT of little jobs on the side to keep some money comin in. Next weekend though. If it turns out half as good as any of his I'll be more than happy.

 

Well, its 3 weeks later and i got it back like a week after my last post it looks AWSOME, no dents dings, tiny scratches or anything.

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1991 Z28 Camaro L98
5.7 T.P.I. (350)

http://www.bright.net/~rwig/BandetZ28.jpg
http://www.bright.net/~rwig/BandetZ28-2.jpg

 

i work in a body shop.if your going to keep your car for a while use a base coat/clear system but if your just going to sell your car go w/ single stage.single stage will fade and get all chalky on you.single has already has something like a clear coat in it. it is a cheaper product.the base/clear is basically standard in all shops now.it's what starts off a good paint job.although you can a good paint job w/single stage.just remember you get what u pay for.there a million different brands out there.the ones that they were telling you about ranged from the best(glascir) to sherman william. i never heard anything about williams but they make house paint.i can't see using a brand that makes house to paint my car. but that's my opinion.PPG is a good brand to go with.they have been around for a long time.they know there stuff.just don't use the gobal line it really suxs.it's more expensive and same quality as DBU and DAU.which what ur car will probably get painted in.at my shop we use speies/hecker one of the best paints out there.it's what all german cars get painted w/from the factory.it's expensive but worth it.also we are trying out a new system for us which sikkens.we have had it about 2 month and so far so good.no draw backs yet.it's about 1/2 cost as speies.quality is up there to.as for orange peal some just comes with the paint job.if it is bad it's teh painter's falut. then he used the wrong reducer.they make differnent timed reducors for paint, to slow or speed up the drying time of the paint according to the temperature your painting.no you just can't add more paint to cover it up that gives a chummy look to the paint.if there is peal in your car and you don't like it have the shop wet sand it out.it's not the clear coat flowing on that makes you get cars that you don' have to rub,it's all about no dirt getting into the clear before it drys.which is why you rub cars in a production shop.the paint has a little to do w/it.it's more or less how good your both is and is there any dust in the from people doing body work outside the booth.i work in a high end shop and a starndard paint job useing our materials is $3000 just for paint.no body work nothing.good luck witth whatever you choose