Shaving antenna the easy way (guide with pics)
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Car: 1987 Z28
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Shaving antenna the easy way (guide with pics)
OK, so 17 year old with no extra money, still in high school with no job. I love my car to death but cant afford to pay anyone to do anything. So I came up with this. I just did this today and Im actually happy with the results.
STEP 1
Start by removing your inner fender wall
STEP 2
Undo this thing, I have a power antenna so i dont know about the regular ones. This black thing just turns like a bolt.
STEP 3
Heres the power antenna, its held in by 2 bolts in the fender. I simply undid them and cut the wires, taped them up and hid them.
STEP 4
I started sanding with 180 grit to get down to the bare metal. Then finnished with 220
STEP 5
Mix some bondo yes thats a cd cover, i had nothing else
STEP 6
Put it on, I put a peice of tape across so the bondo would not fall through, then sand it down till its smooth finnishing with 400 grit
STEP 7
Paint and admire :lala:
I got the wrong paint, its a bit to yellowish so Im going tommorow to get better stuff
And thats all, Im really happy with the results, I think it looks great
STEP 1
Start by removing your inner fender wall
STEP 2
Undo this thing, I have a power antenna so i dont know about the regular ones. This black thing just turns like a bolt.
STEP 3
Heres the power antenna, its held in by 2 bolts in the fender. I simply undid them and cut the wires, taped them up and hid them.
STEP 4
I started sanding with 180 grit to get down to the bare metal. Then finnished with 220
STEP 5
Mix some bondo yes thats a cd cover, i had nothing else
STEP 6
Put it on, I put a peice of tape across so the bondo would not fall through, then sand it down till its smooth finnishing with 400 grit
STEP 7
Paint and admire :lala:
I got the wrong paint, its a bit to yellowish so Im going tommorow to get better stuff
And thats all, Im really happy with the results, I think it looks great
Last edited by 83_Camaro_83; 01-17-2005 at 10:55 PM.
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
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Awesome! I should do that to my antenna. How did you say that top thing comes out? it just unsccrews? hmm..
I should do that, and at the same time paint my bumper. It's royally f'ed up. Paint keeps chipping off..
edit: I just remembered.. On my 87 I considered shaving the antenna and mounting a power antenna on the rear qtr panel, angled back. Think that would look good?
I should do that, and at the same time paint my bumper. It's royally f'ed up. Paint keeps chipping off..
edit: I just remembered.. On my 87 I considered shaving the antenna and mounting a power antenna on the rear qtr panel, angled back. Think that would look good?
Last edited by 305q_ta86; 01-17-2005 at 05:34 PM.
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by 305q_ta86
Awesome! I should do that to my antenna. How did you say that top thing comes out? it just unsccrews? hmm..
I should do that, and at the same time paint my bumper. It's royally f'ed up. Paint keeps chipping off..
Awesome! I should do that to my antenna. How did you say that top thing comes out? it just unsccrews? hmm..
I should do that, and at the same time paint my bumper. It's royally f'ed up. Paint keeps chipping off..
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
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unfortunatley i got mine at canadian tire...thier "exact match paint" is that yellow i used to cover the bondo
#7
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by nick418
loooks good 83
loooks good 83
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Car: 1987 Z28
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thanks kretos :lala:
i dunno man, personally i woud just get rid of it all together, i still get good radio out here just as well as when i was in calgary
Originally posted by 305q_ta86
edit: I just remembered.. On my 87 I considered shaving the antenna and mounting a power antenna on the rear qtr panel, angled back. Think that would look good?
edit: I just remembered.. On my 87 I considered shaving the antenna and mounting a power antenna on the rear qtr panel, angled back. Think that would look good?
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Car: Pair of 92 Z28s
well how does it look up close...pictures tell a different story...
i did **** load of bondo work on my old toyota no matter how i rattle canned it or smoothed it out...it still looked like *** within 5 feet away.
It does look nice and smooth and im sure it will look unoticeable with the matching paint but upclose could you tell?
i did **** load of bondo work on my old toyota no matter how i rattle canned it or smoothed it out...it still looked like *** within 5 feet away.
It does look nice and smooth and im sure it will look unoticeable with the matching paint but upclose could you tell?
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Car: 89 Camaro/ 02 GC Overland
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i would have at least laid a lil fibre glass behind it or used duraglass insead of bondo. the fender flex and with out proper reinforcment the bondo will crack. best thing to do would b weld the hole closed and skin with bondo. but hey it looks good and you did it on a buget. nothin wrong with makin ur car look killer for cheap.
matt
matt
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Car: 1985 Trans Am
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i hope it holds up . Give us an update after youve driven it for a while , i wants to know if it will crack or be fine.
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
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HEy guys thanks for the responces, yeah the yellowish paint is noticable up close, but tommorow im getting the good stuff so i will hit you guys with an update on wed or thurs.
And yeah if it cracks or my fear...flys off while driving, I will let you guys know. Remeber this is just temporary until Im out of school and get a job so then I can get the car painted and that hole welded up
edit: i did this in an hour and 15
And yeah if it cracks or my fear...flys off while driving, I will let you guys know. Remeber this is just temporary until Im out of school and get a job so then I can get the car painted and that hole welded up
edit: i did this in an hour and 15
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Car: 91 Z28 & 21 Hellcat Challenger
Engine: L98, Hemi 6.2
Originally posted by 83_Camaro_83
but it will look better when I get the right paint
but it will look better when I get the right paint
:werd: cant wait until you get the right paint!!
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Car: 1987 Z28
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Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by nick418
:werd: cant wait until you get the right paint!!
:werd: cant wait until you get the right paint!!
Project - perhaps you didnt read the first line of the thread. did you want me to go buy a welder and do it properly?
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Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
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Originally posted by Project
BONDO? HOW DARE YOU
BONDO? HOW DARE YOU
There is nothing wrong with bondo if it's used right and not abused...especially with custom work. About 95% of todays cars have some type of body filler in them from the factory...
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im going to sahve mines off to but my uncle has a body shop so i will weld a peice of metal around the area but it will look the same
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Car: 1988 Camaro
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Nothing wrong with bondo. You just have to use it and apply it right. If you look into custom rods with alot of frenching, chopping, etc you'll see them go through a few gal. cans of body filler.
My dad was a body man for many years (even put on the bondo cans for the last 10 years or so, but now they changed the picture on the cans)
You need the spot sanded down to bare metal atleast 3-5 times bigger than the spot your fixing.
Apply the bondo in thin coats, sanding each time, when you apply it, Put it over the spot and atleast 3 times bigger than the spot, use your spreader to thin and blend the filler towards the outter ends that dont need filler.
Go back and sand it smooth. Your hands is your best tools. Feel it, rub it, Once you done it a few times you'll get where you wont even look you'll just feel for the finished blend. Eyes can play tricks on you, your touch cant.
You'll never get it filled in right with 1 coat of filler. If you did, then you better count on it cracking or falling out, and i'll bet money on that!
Most small dings will need 2-3 thin coats of filler to keep it from cracking easy.
apply, feather with spreader, sand smooth, apply, sand, apply, sand, Now it's time to block it. On this last step never use an un backed or power sander. You a sanding block with the paper on it, when you sand, feather and blend the edeges of the bondo into the rest of the car, and made sure you sand flat on the ding/dent/hole.
My dad was a body man for many years (even put on the bondo cans for the last 10 years or so, but now they changed the picture on the cans)
You need the spot sanded down to bare metal atleast 3-5 times bigger than the spot your fixing.
Apply the bondo in thin coats, sanding each time, when you apply it, Put it over the spot and atleast 3 times bigger than the spot, use your spreader to thin and blend the filler towards the outter ends that dont need filler.
Go back and sand it smooth. Your hands is your best tools. Feel it, rub it, Once you done it a few times you'll get where you wont even look you'll just feel for the finished blend. Eyes can play tricks on you, your touch cant.
You'll never get it filled in right with 1 coat of filler. If you did, then you better count on it cracking or falling out, and i'll bet money on that!
Most small dings will need 2-3 thin coats of filler to keep it from cracking easy.
apply, feather with spreader, sand smooth, apply, sand, apply, sand, Now it's time to block it. On this last step never use an un backed or power sander. You a sanding block with the paper on it, when you sand, feather and blend the edeges of the bondo into the rest of the car, and made sure you sand flat on the ding/dent/hole.
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Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 4.10 gears
you're kidding, right?!?! you can't bridge a hole with bondo and expect it to stay long. If you want to do it cheap and do it yourself, this is what I would do:
1- cut piece of sheet metal to cover the hole from underneath
2- use an epoxy like JB Weld to attach sheet metal to inside of fender
3- sand around the outside of the hole like you already did
4- use 2 or 3 skim coats of bondo over the top
5- sand smooth
6- prime
7- paint base coat
8- paint clear coat
This will last much longer than the bondo bridge that will soon crack and fall out. I admire your drive to customize and improve your car, i just wanted to offer advice to make it last longer.
the biggest problem still present with this methos is that the clearcoat will eventually peel. the clearcoat should be applied to the entire panel at once rather than in a small section.
1- cut piece of sheet metal to cover the hole from underneath
2- use an epoxy like JB Weld to attach sheet metal to inside of fender
3- sand around the outside of the hole like you already did
4- use 2 or 3 skim coats of bondo over the top
5- sand smooth
6- prime
7- paint base coat
8- paint clear coat
This will last much longer than the bondo bridge that will soon crack and fall out. I admire your drive to customize and improve your car, i just wanted to offer advice to make it last longer.
the biggest problem still present with this methos is that the clearcoat will eventually peel. the clearcoat should be applied to the entire panel at once rather than in a small section.
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Car: 82 Trans Am
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lookin good man:hail:
now should i do this or fix my power antenna...:shrug:
now should i do this or fix my power antenna...:shrug:
#24
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Car: 1987 Z28
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Okay i got the right paint and WOW what a difference. I will get pics up soon. cant even notice it anymore, so much cleaner of a look.
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
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Originally posted by Night rider327
Nothing wrong with bondo. You just have to use it and apply it right. If you look into custom rods with alot of frenching, chopping, etc you'll see them go through a few gal. cans of body filler.
My dad was a body man for many years (even put on the bondo cans for the last 10 years or so, but now they changed the picture on the cans)
You need the spot sanded down to bare metal atleast 3-5 times bigger than the spot your fixing.
Apply the bondo in thin coats, sanding each time, when you apply it, Put it over the spot and atleast 3 times bigger than the spot, use your spreader to thin and blend the filler towards the outter ends that dont need filler.
Go back and sand it smooth. Your hands is your best tools. Feel it, rub it, Once you done it a few times you'll get where you wont even look you'll just feel for the finished blend. Eyes can play tricks on you, your touch cant.
You'll never get it filled in right with 1 coat of filler. If you did, then you better count on it cracking or falling out, and i'll bet money on that!
Most small dings will need 2-3 thin coats of filler to keep it from cracking easy.
apply, feather with spreader, sand smooth, apply, sand, apply, sand, Now it's time to block it. On this last step never use an un backed or power sander. You a sanding block with the paper on it, when you sand, feather and blend the edeges of the bondo into the rest of the car, and made sure you sand flat on the ding/dent/hole.
Nothing wrong with bondo. You just have to use it and apply it right. If you look into custom rods with alot of frenching, chopping, etc you'll see them go through a few gal. cans of body filler.
My dad was a body man for many years (even put on the bondo cans for the last 10 years or so, but now they changed the picture on the cans)
You need the spot sanded down to bare metal atleast 3-5 times bigger than the spot your fixing.
Apply the bondo in thin coats, sanding each time, when you apply it, Put it over the spot and atleast 3 times bigger than the spot, use your spreader to thin and blend the filler towards the outter ends that dont need filler.
Go back and sand it smooth. Your hands is your best tools. Feel it, rub it, Once you done it a few times you'll get where you wont even look you'll just feel for the finished blend. Eyes can play tricks on you, your touch cant.
You'll never get it filled in right with 1 coat of filler. If you did, then you better count on it cracking or falling out, and i'll bet money on that!
Most small dings will need 2-3 thin coats of filler to keep it from cracking easy.
apply, feather with spreader, sand smooth, apply, sand, apply, sand, Now it's time to block it. On this last step never use an un backed or power sander. You a sanding block with the paper on it, when you sand, feather and blend the edeges of the bondo into the rest of the car, and made sure you sand flat on the ding/dent/hole.
#26
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
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Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Canadian tire spray paint? bah, Canadian tire *****!
Now that's showin' 'em how it's done
but yea, I think when I do that i'm going to weld, or JB weld, or fiberglass... but since I now have a stick welder, it may work.. ?
geez, you did that, and got it to set now, lemme guess, since it warmed up to 5*??? bondo set in that?
(heated garage?)
yea, lets see what the proper paint looks like....
and where did you get the proper paint from? for future reference, Sams?
Now that's showin' 'em how it's done
but yea, I think when I do that i'm going to weld, or JB weld, or fiberglass... but since I now have a stick welder, it may work.. ?
geez, you did that, and got it to set now, lemme guess, since it warmed up to 5*??? bondo set in that?
(heated garage?)
yea, lets see what the proper paint looks like....
and where did you get the proper paint from? for future reference, Sams?
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Car: 1982 Firebird
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Welcome to the "Shaved antenna club," I'll be your host!
Looks pretty good man, I welded mine shut, but I had to borrow my uncle's welder at the time. As long as you're not expecting that to last forever, I'd say it looks good.
Looks pretty good man, I welded mine shut, but I had to borrow my uncle's welder at the time. As long as you're not expecting that to last forever, I'd say it looks good.
#28
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Sonix
Canadian tire spray paint? bah, Canadian tire *****!
Now that's showin' 'em how it's done
but yea, I think when I do that i'm going to weld, or JB weld, or fiberglass... but since I now have a stick welder, it may work.. ?
geez, you did that, and got it to set now, lemme guess, since it warmed up to 5*??? bondo set in that?
(heated garage?)
yea, lets see what the proper paint looks like....
and where did you get the proper paint from? for future reference, Sams?
Canadian tire spray paint? bah, Canadian tire *****!
Now that's showin' 'em how it's done
but yea, I think when I do that i'm going to weld, or JB weld, or fiberglass... but since I now have a stick welder, it may work.. ?
geez, you did that, and got it to set now, lemme guess, since it warmed up to 5*??? bondo set in that?
(heated garage?)
yea, lets see what the proper paint looks like....
and where did you get the proper paint from? for future reference, Sams?
82Firebird - thanx man, but yeah I didnt have a welder at my disposal so I just did this as a temporary fix. Until i get it painted then im gonna weld it shut
#29
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i would take a piece of scrap metal and put it underneath the hole. you can either spot weld it or do what i did for my spoiler holes...duct tape them in place...lol! i know, i can be kinda rednek sometimes, but it turned out great. i might shave my antenna tomorrow!
#31
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Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
As promissed the pic with the new paint on it
the paint was very clearish so it could use a few more coats
the paint was very clearish so it could use a few more coats
#37
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Car: 1987 Z28
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thanx for the comments doods, but yeah I drive the highway everyday, and go through residential with all the bumpy roads cause of the snow, and man its still holding strong...im very happy with it
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i still dont think it was right to bondo that, why not cut out a piece of metal and go to a body shop. I dont think they would charge you more then 15 bucks to drop a couple of welds would probably take em all of 3 minutes, then if needed a tiny bit of bondo to smooth it out and paint on that
#39
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Car: 1987 Z28
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Who cares, like i said 100 times, TEMPORARY and easy fix for the short period of time that Its gonna be there
#40
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Car: 87 Red/Blk Bird loaded 3.4L & 700R4
Transmission: Th700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Originally posted by 18inchboyds
i hope it holds up . Give us an update after youve driven it for a while , i wants to know if it will crack or be fine.
i hope it holds up . Give us an update after youve driven it for a while , i wants to know if it will crack or be fine.
#41
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Car: 1987 Z28
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Thanx. But yeah as long as it holds for a few more months Im good. Actually if i wanted when school starts back up I can go into autobody and do it. Even if it does crack, it didnt cost me anything and I could do it again if I wanted......but i hope for the best
And i have already had a few compliments about it, from friends and strangers.....It cool:lala:
And i have already had a few compliments about it, from friends and strangers.....It cool:lala:
#42
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If you don't have access to a welder, then cold welding a piece of sheet metal behind it is the only way to really do it cheaply then. Bondo isn't very flexible, and it will start to crack soon.
Thats just the way it is.
Good luck with it, and when it falls out, get it welded next time.
Thats just the way it is.
Good luck with it, and when it falls out, get it welded next time.
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx
Engine: Turbo KA24DE
Transmission: 5 spd
Axle/Gears: 4.08 VLSD
Originally posted by Thirdgen89GTA
An epoxy. JB Weld, or similar body adhesives would work. Not the best way, but much better than simply filling it in with bondo.
JB Weld, or any bonding agent is really just cold welding.
An epoxy. JB Weld, or similar body adhesives would work. Not the best way, but much better than simply filling it in with bondo.
JB Weld, or any bonding agent is really just cold welding.
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