Paint runs
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From: Bonham TX
Car: 87 & 89 Iroc's
Engine: 5.0 - 5.7
Transmission: 700R's
Axle/Gears: 2.77 - 3.70
Are the runs in the clear or the paint? In the clear you can wetsand like camaroguy said. If the basecoat has run you can't.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: boonton, NJ
Car: 84 camaro Z28
Engine: 434sbc
Transmission: powerglide
Axle/Gears: moser 9" with 411 posi
i have a really good solution for runs but most people are not confident(sp) enough to try it. take a fresh clean razor blade and wrap masking take onces around the edges. the tape will prevent the edges of the razor from scratching you paint. you have to hold it staight on the paint do not tilt it. then drag the razor along the run(don not apply presure). this will remove the built up clean in the run and not the clear around it. when your done,wetsand it with 1500 or 2000 grit paper and buff it. i have tried to teach this to alot of people but no one ever wants to put a razor to a new paint job.
my personal opinion is that there is no way to fix a run other than blocking it out and respraying it. if you wetsand and buff the run you will still see it, because you are sanding the run and the clear around it. so basically you will still see the run very noticably. the razor trick is the best method that i have used. it leaves a slight shadow that most people will never see. go luck and do what you feel more comfortable with.
my personal opinion is that there is no way to fix a run other than blocking it out and respraying it. if you wetsand and buff the run you will still see it, because you are sanding the run and the clear around it. so basically you will still see the run very noticably. the razor trick is the best method that i have used. it leaves a slight shadow that most people will never see. go luck and do what you feel more comfortable with.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
the razor thing has actually been made and marketed in order to get rid of runs. eastwood actually has one for sale.. and they do indeed work for cutting the run down
http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/pro...=1&keyword=Run
Basically there is the "Run Razor and Block set" Works pretty decently.. (I have one and have used it to cut down the runs in a clear coat after i was done painting. (I do custom Computer case painting on the side, somedays are worse than others for doing that)
http://www.eastwood.com/shopping/pro...=1&keyword=Run
Basically there is the "Run Razor and Block set" Works pretty decently.. (I have one and have used it to cut down the runs in a clear coat after i was done painting. (I do custom Computer case painting on the side, somedays are worse than others for doing that)
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From: Tampa, FL, USA
Car: 93 240SX
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.54 R200 IRS
I'll be the next to agree on the razor. Take one to it, just be a little careful how you handle it, dont go at it carelessly.
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From: Rockville, Maryland
Car: 1986 Z28 Camaro Gunmetal Gray with
Engine: GM Crate ZZZ HO 350, Edelbrock head
Transmission: Rebuilt 700r4 all TransGo and Beast
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt with 3.73 gears
i used the razor blade method before too and it worked great. i didnt even wetsand it afterwards, just buffed it becuase it came out smooth as it was. im not sure about single stage though. anyways, i used this little block that looked like a stamp that my teacher gave me also, and it had like diagonal sharp edges. hard to explain but it also worked well. i would go for it if i were you, anything looks better than a run
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,121
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From: Spicer, MN
Car: '83 Berli, '84 Berli, '84 Z28 HO
Engine: L69, LG4, L69
Transmission: TH700-R4, TH700-R4, T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08, 3.08, 3.73 Posi
Note the link i put up about 3 posts from eastwod.. that would be what you used...(the little block) If you do a bit of painting it is a pretty good investment considering it is so cheap
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