Ok, My IROC, even tho it loks lgood in the phots had losts of places where you can see a white primer, now it is pissing me off. We just recently took my brother lumina to MAACo for a paint job b/c we were selling it and it need one badly, we did all the prop work and they just sprayed, we also taped up all the hard to tape things. Now the paint is still lasting and looks good and it was the 200 dollor job. I was thinking about doing the same to my IROC, does anyone have a BLACK(harder to paint) camaro or firebird with large close up photos and what problems did you encounter. From what i have heard experiance MAACO can paint not prep.


EDIT: when you wetsand after a paintjob what grit do you use and would you recoment i to a MAACo job, I figure if the paint is not teh greatest but the more work I put into it the better it will come out.
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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

[This message has been edited by camaro6spd (edited October 04, 2001).]

 

I am going to get an estimate tomorrow for my Camaro at Maaco for a black color. So, add me on the Want-To-Know list.

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1987 Camaro Sport Coupe 305 V8 LG4-rebuilt-All Stock.

 

MAKE SURE TO GET IT CLEARCOATED>..... I KNOW, i worked there all summer like 55 hours a week. get the coupon for the $200 job (reg. $400) and the $50 clearcoat coupon (reg $100 and prep and tape the hard stuff.) it will look like a dream if you do all hte prep etc... and if you wetsand the clear... WOW

 

what about acrylic paint?
i have a neighbor who will paint it, but he only uses acrylic....
its cheap
pros and cons???
thanks

 

I had a friend who got the $200 paint job on his firebird. After a few months it started chipping and peeling, same thing happened to my dad's 280 zx.

 

That sounds like he didn't go good prep work.. or didn't do it at all. Its all in the prepping.

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Third Gen Project - Website now defunct because crosswinds sucks
1989 305 tbi Camaro RS Red/Red
Ram Air II Hood
Centerline Champ 500 Rims
Edelbrock Open Element
MacEwen White Faced Guages

 

MACCO SUCKS!!!! If you can afford it go some where else the paint they use is the cheapest on the market and does not told a shine worth a damm and they only put one coat of clearcoat on and you have to pay for every additional coat!!! Go to some home town body shop where the have the latest paint booth and materials and ect.. and have them give you a quote with all the prep work done. Another thing is you may work on painting something old and practice on that because painting is not hard as long as you get the hang of it before you actually try to paint something of value.

 

Maaco may suck, but even their most expensive job (reg $800, often on sale for $400) is 1/4 the cost of a full paint job at any real body shop, AT BEST. On top of only being 1/4 of the cost (assuming you pay the full $800) they've got a 4 year warantee on it against fading and chipping. So rather than go out and spend $3K+ on a daily driver, I'd personally wait until one of Maaco's sales and pay $400 for decent paint with a 4 year warantee.

 

Well said jason.... and if you do some really good prepping before you give em the car the paint will stick like and MOTHER! And a layer of clearcoat is only $50..... and the clearcoat does WONDERS for protecting the paint and making it shine.... hint hint

 

Yes, very cool, I will get the car painted as soon as I finish the mechanical(minor stuff) and interior(headliner) work.

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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

 

My cost (dad owns a body shop) for JUST paint-related materials for my GTA was over $750. That was just basecoat, midcoat, clearcoat, stabilizer, reducer, sealer and some $.99 paint cups.

That's just materials. If my materials cost me that much, what sort of quality do you think their materials have? Not only do they buy all of the materials, they pay a guy $10/hr to paint your car and they still turn a profit.

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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
Custom Thirdgen Subwoofer Enclosures
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

But does your dad have the buy power to buy paint by the train load, and get a nice large bulk discount? Kinda like why a large chain of auto stores can sell the same product for less than the little guy can because the corporate guys can buy it by the train load for 3000 stores nation wide... Combine that with the paint probably not being the most expensive paint is probably why they can't make a profit on $400 paint jobs... When my Uncle's friend painted my old Escort the materials alone were ~$600 From what I've heard doing the prep work yourself can mean a decent paint job for cheap...

Jess

 

well if you are gonna wet sand it and take out all the orange peal after they spray it, i would make sure they put on enough coats of paint so you dont wear through. and after that it will need a coat of clear.

and i would say if you can do all the prep why not just rent a portable spray both and do it your self.

you couldnt do any worse than them.

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http://PCperformance-usa.com/86bird/86bird.html

 

First Wet sand the car with 1000 grit wet paper using a 3"x5" stiff foam pad. Make sure you sand every square inch of the surface. You can tell by wiping the wet sanded areas dry with a towel to see if the area has a dull finish with no pits. Use a back and forth motion and change paper frequently about 1 sheet of 1000 grit paper folded over three times (3 smaller sheets for the foam pad) should be able to wet sand 1 panel or a little more. After that use 1500 grit paper by hand to go over the entire car. If you sanded the car correctly with the 1000 grit, then this will go by much faster and you will use a lot less paper. Remember sand the 1500 grit with the palm of your hand, not with your fingers or you'll miss a lot of the surface. After you're done buff the car with a thick Lambswool buffing pad with a NON- waterbased buffing compound and finish with a Foam pad using 3M's Foam Polishing pad glaze. Color sanding a car is hard work but if done right you will be amazed! On a Black car or any solid color there is no need for clear. On any metallic colored car you need the clear to protect the basecoat color. Just make sure there is enough paint on the car so you don't sand through.

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"91" RS, 305 tbi, 5spd, Slp Y-pipe, Random tech Cat, Flowmaster crossflow, Ultimate tbi mods, Edelbrock open element with 3" K&N, Taylor Spiro Pro wires, Redline water wetter, 180* thermostat.

 

Here's my MAACO paint job. You must prep and wet sand or else it will look average. Never had a paint peeling problem.

Do your homework and know the shop and painter/bodyman. Each shop is different.


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86 Camaro Black SS Coupe, T Tops, ASCD Daytona Twin Turbo hood, Flowmaster, Custom Black Paint, Dunlop Road Kings S/R tires, Wheel Country Directional Chrome Wheels,new charcoal & gray interior including seats and door panels, leather wrapped steering wheel, shifter and emergency brake, new carpet and headliner, complete front end suspension rebuild, new Valve seals, and more mods to come
'91 RS 5.0 TBI = Waiting to be modded, but has all of the toys inside.

http://www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/86camaro.html
Morgan_Andre@hotmail.com



[This message has been edited by 86NiteRider (edited October 11, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by 86NiteRider (edited October 11, 2001).]

 

[img]http//www.angelfire.com/sports/niterider/faster1.jpg[/img]

 

WTF**&, Damn Angelfire.

Just go to the lionk if this don't work.

[This message has been edited by 86NiteRider (edited October 11, 2001).]

 

I dont think Maaco really makes a killin on their paint jobs (in fact i found it hard to beleive that made any, and they use DU PONT paint which is just as good as the others)............ but try getting an estimate for body work!!!!!!

 

does MAACO put on enought paint or do you have to keep after them?

 

well, my maaco job came out REALLY good

everyone compliments my car

it is chipping, but that is COMPLETLEY my fault

one spot is one the front GFX where i hit a block of ice while parking one winter

the other spot i scraped pretty hard while putting my new headlights in

THATS IT!!!!!!!

one spot got a little dust on it while they were painting it,so it got a little bumpy, so the manager told me to bring it back in a week and he'd fix it for free!!!!

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Slayer of the following:
1996 Riced-out Honda Civic (all show and no go!!!!!!)
2000 saturn
198? Ford Crown Vic, (no i don't know why he bothered)
1990 Buick LeSabre 3.8
1986 Camaro 2.8
Newer Ford Explorer
Food that makes me sick: RICE
1991 Camaro RS 3.1 V6 5-speed
1991 Z28 Rims with Firestone Firehawks
dual snorkel intake w/ slashed boxes, 2 K&N's, 180* t-stat, 80 series Flowmaster (sounds AWESOME)
my motto: I CAN'T DRIVE 55

 

I had my car sprayed @ maaco based on my impatience for my body shop to be able to get my car in.. best 280 bucks i've ever spent. Car shines like a **** with a few nice layers of meguiars on it... no chipping, fading, cracking, peeling, or anything of that BS the other crackheads are talking about. I completely prepped mine.. sanded to metal, primered, wetsanded... didnt wetsand after they painted it.. but i did get the extra clearcoat package shiz on there as well..
Oh, and btw it was the "presidential" package or whatever the f*ck it's called.. knew a guy who worked there so he just rang me up for the el-cheapo special, and then put an extra layer of clear on it..
All in all tho, it's a bad *** paintjob, and it's been well over a year so far with it.


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Decently worked 87 GTA; still slow running 13.46 @ 114.3mph
huh, what the f*ck is traction?!

 

that looks great!, the RAII hood look good on FB not of camaros.

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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

 

I had them paint my old RX-7 black. They did all the prep work, so when it was done if you were right on the car you may have seen some orange peel, or sanding marks...but who cares? From a distance greater than 1 foot it looked great. For the money it wasnt too bad, but I have seen some of their work that was pretty crappy. I wouldnt turn people away from there, but if you want a perfect or even good paint job forget about it. A real paint job would cost more than the bluebook on most of our cars.
Peace

 

When my RS only a year old a lady backed into the door. To properly paint the door to factory spec's cost her $1650 and that was over TEN years ago. This was at the very best body shop around, they did show car quality work. Somewhere like that would want $5000 to do a top quality good...but for the most part I'd go way cheaper on the paint and spend the $$$ on other things my car needs and try a Maaco or something similar but I'd sure check out a few cars they'd painted BEFORE I turned them loose on my car!

 

I went to the local body shop to have them look at my 88 Camaro. The guy that looked at my car turned out to be the owner so that made me feel better about his estimate. He told me he'd sand bumpers where needed, take off all the lights, weatherstripping, everything, and then paint it. He was quoting me about $2000 for the same color and around $3000 for another color. When you guys talk about going to MACCO what kind of prep work do you do to your cars? Also what kind of lifespan is there on a MACCO job? I know professional body shops can guarantee their paint jobs which I am not sure that MACCO does.

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88 Camaro Sport Coupe
2.8L V6 173ci
K&N Air Filters
JET Underdrive Pulleys