School me on auto detailing
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Joined: Apr 2011
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School me on auto detailing
i'd really appreciate if you guys could tell me the do's and dont's of auto detailing.
the procedure, what to use, your favorites, hand detailing vs buffer detailing.
EVERYTHING
whatever advice you guys could give a young kid
the procedure, what to use, your favorites, hand detailing vs buffer detailing.
EVERYTHING
whatever advice you guys could give a young kid
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iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 574
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From: Georgia
Car: 91' Z28. 70' Dune Buggy
Engine: LSX Cam/Full Bolt ons
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: School me on auto detailing
It all depends on how far you wanna go.
Your results will vary depending on the condition of the paint.
My car had great paint when I bought it. It wasn't really nice, just good paint. This is the method I used when I first got my car.
1. I washed the car old school style with a hose, soap, and bucket.
-I used dish soap. This helps remove any old wax
2. I bought some Meguiars Rubbing Compound and hand applied it over some parts of the vehicle. I did it part by part.
-This removes medium and deep scratches.
3. I then hand applied Meguiars Polishing Compound over the whole vehicle. Again I did this part by part.
-This removes swirl marks and light scratches. It also provides a better shine
4. I clay barred it.
-This removes all contaniments that are stuck in the paint. Makes a BIG difference in how smooth the paint is.
5. I washed the car again.
-This removed left over compound aswell as residue from the claybar.
6. I applied about 3 coats of wax over the entire car.
Side notes
When using polishing compound, rubbing compound, and wax, make sure you do it part by part. Most products aren't suppose to fully dry on the paint. If this happens it is a PAIN to get the stuff off. This is why I do half of the hood, 1 quarter panel and so on.
A random orbital buffer can make everything so much easier. I use it to apply wax. I can wax the car in a quarter of a time that it used to take.
Microfiber rags and towels are the only thing that touch my car. They don't scratch the paint as much as most other fabrics
I throw one coat of wax on it atleast once every other month.
Materials-
meguiars compounds
Ajax dish soap
meguiars clay bar kit
Micro Fibers
Random Orbital Buffer
Before,
After-Check out that rear quarter
Your results will vary depending on the condition of the paint.
My car had great paint when I bought it. It wasn't really nice, just good paint. This is the method I used when I first got my car.
1. I washed the car old school style with a hose, soap, and bucket.
-I used dish soap. This helps remove any old wax
2. I bought some Meguiars Rubbing Compound and hand applied it over some parts of the vehicle. I did it part by part.
-This removes medium and deep scratches.
3. I then hand applied Meguiars Polishing Compound over the whole vehicle. Again I did this part by part.
-This removes swirl marks and light scratches. It also provides a better shine
4. I clay barred it.
-This removes all contaniments that are stuck in the paint. Makes a BIG difference in how smooth the paint is.
5. I washed the car again.
-This removed left over compound aswell as residue from the claybar.
6. I applied about 3 coats of wax over the entire car.
Side notes
When using polishing compound, rubbing compound, and wax, make sure you do it part by part. Most products aren't suppose to fully dry on the paint. If this happens it is a PAIN to get the stuff off. This is why I do half of the hood, 1 quarter panel and so on.
A random orbital buffer can make everything so much easier. I use it to apply wax. I can wax the car in a quarter of a time that it used to take.
Microfiber rags and towels are the only thing that touch my car. They don't scratch the paint as much as most other fabrics
I throw one coat of wax on it atleast once every other month.
Materials-
meguiars compounds
Ajax dish soap
meguiars clay bar kit
Micro Fibers
Random Orbital Buffer
Before,
After-Check out that rear quarter
Last edited by Buggy Disaster; Apr 7, 2013 at 08:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
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Re: School me on auto detailing
nice! thanks alot
but i do have some questions..
1) aren't you supposed to claybar first, before doing anything else??
2) doesn't using dish soap every time you wash your car affect the clearcoat after a while?
3) i don't have a buffer, does it to THAT much of a difference on the paint or its just a time saver?
4) best time to detail your car? i can't do it in my garage cause i don't have enough space to maneuver
thanks alotbut i do have some questions..
1) aren't you supposed to claybar first, before doing anything else??
2) doesn't using dish soap every time you wash your car affect the clearcoat after a while?
3) i don't have a buffer, does it to THAT much of a difference on the paint or its just a time saver?
4) best time to detail your car? i can't do it in my garage cause i don't have enough space to maneuver
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 574
Likes: 8
From: Georgia
Car: 91' Z28. 70' Dune Buggy
Engine: LSX Cam/Full Bolt ons
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: School me on auto detailing
nice! thanks alot
No prob man!
but i do have some questions..
1) aren't you supposed to claybar first, before doing anything else??
I'm not entirely sure. It just made sense to do it the way I did so that the paint is at its smoothest and cleanest state. Then clay bar.
2) doesn't using dish soap every time you wash your car affect the clearcoat after a while?
I heard that it will affect clear coat over time. However using it periodically to take off wax doesn't hurt anything.
For regular washing, I use autozone brand soap with wax in it. The wax allows you to wash the car without marring the paint.
3) i don't have a buffer, does it to THAT much of a difference on the paint or its just a time saver?
It is mostly a time saver. I can tell a little difference because it seems to remove swirl marks. It was well worth the $45 to me.
4) best time to detail your car? i can't do it in my garage cause i don't have enough space to maneuver
In shade. If it is a hot day, do it in the afternoon in the shade as well. This reduces the water marks. It also allows a longer window for you to apply wax or compound and remove it, since it doesn't dry as quick.
thanks alotNo prob man!
but i do have some questions..
1) aren't you supposed to claybar first, before doing anything else??
I'm not entirely sure. It just made sense to do it the way I did so that the paint is at its smoothest and cleanest state. Then clay bar.
2) doesn't using dish soap every time you wash your car affect the clearcoat after a while?
I heard that it will affect clear coat over time. However using it periodically to take off wax doesn't hurt anything.
For regular washing, I use autozone brand soap with wax in it. The wax allows you to wash the car without marring the paint.
3) i don't have a buffer, does it to THAT much of a difference on the paint or its just a time saver?
It is mostly a time saver. I can tell a little difference because it seems to remove swirl marks. It was well worth the $45 to me.
4) best time to detail your car? i can't do it in my garage cause i don't have enough space to maneuver
In shade. If it is a hot day, do it in the afternoon in the shade as well. This reduces the water marks. It also allows a longer window for you to apply wax or compound and remove it, since it doesn't dry as quick.
Also I have a big ole backpack leaf blower. By far the best and quickest way to dry a car!
Last edited by Buggy Disaster; Apr 8, 2013 at 08:19 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 49
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COTM Editor
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,098
Likes: 13
From: WINDSOR, CO
Car: 91 Z28, 87 SC, 90 IROC, 92 RS
Engine: LS1, 305 TPI, L98, NADA
Transmission: T56, 700r4's, and NADA
Axle/Gears: 3.89, 3.42, 3.23, NADA
Re: School me on auto detailing
I would recommend performing the car wash as a first step, then move to performing the clay bar procedure. The clay bar removes any contaminants from the surface of the paint, so that it does not get ground (polished) into the paint, which could reduce your optimum results. Then depending on what system of polishes or compounds your using complete remaining steps. Wash and dry again before waxing/sealing, apply layers as directed from manufacturer.
If your gonna use a random orbital polisher, I would use that for the polishing procedures for best results. There is a million different types of polishes & pads to try to help reduce the amount of time and how hard your gonna work your right arm to achieve the results you want. I used it for application of all polishes, glazes, waxes, and sealants, for ease of use and to keep application of wax and polishing even.
If your gonna use a random orbital polisher, I would use that for the polishing procedures for best results. There is a million different types of polishes & pads to try to help reduce the amount of time and how hard your gonna work your right arm to achieve the results you want. I used it for application of all polishes, glazes, waxes, and sealants, for ease of use and to keep application of wax and polishing even.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Car: 88 Iroc Z
Engine: 305
Re: School me on auto detailing
I ran a detail shop for 5 years, good money in it but hard work. steps i take when I get a new car even a brand new car.
Wash.
Clay bar first!! very important, clay the whole damn vehicle. a good test for this is take the plastic wrap off a pack of ciggeretes and stick your fingers in it and rub it on you paint. youll feel every tiny paritcle stuck in your paint. clay removes those particles which are the cause of spider web scratching. test it while claying to ensure you get it all out. they make different density clay bars, I stick with medium, heavy is for paint over spray and such.
Compound?? only compund if the car needs it ie. bad spider web scratches or deep scratches that are buffable. to test a scratch run your finger nail over it, if you can feel the scratch you cant buff it out. you may be able to reduce it but wet sanding will be the only thing to take it out. if your car is in good condition DO NOT compund, if you dont know what your doing here you can really screw your paint up.
Polish, get a good polish, make sure to use a soft polishing pad. polish the whole car, easy but time consuming.
Wax or seal, they make sealer waxes and just waxes. I use a carnuba wax on all my cars, gives a deep shine that lasts. apply it let it completely dry and then wipe off.
Tips, never do any of these steps in direct sunlight. it dries the product before it can do its job. get silicone free products. great place for all chemicals and detailing products is www.chemicalguys.com i use their stuff on my cars, and boat. only clay and poilish ever 6 to 8 months, waxing regularly will keep it looking good. if you use spray tire shine do it directly after washing, it will overspray all over your car and ruin all the work you just did.
Doing this makes my paint feel smoother than a babies ***. gives a deep shine and can make old look new.
enjoy hope this helps.
Wash.
Clay bar first!! very important, clay the whole damn vehicle. a good test for this is take the plastic wrap off a pack of ciggeretes and stick your fingers in it and rub it on you paint. youll feel every tiny paritcle stuck in your paint. clay removes those particles which are the cause of spider web scratching. test it while claying to ensure you get it all out. they make different density clay bars, I stick with medium, heavy is for paint over spray and such.
Compound?? only compund if the car needs it ie. bad spider web scratches or deep scratches that are buffable. to test a scratch run your finger nail over it, if you can feel the scratch you cant buff it out. you may be able to reduce it but wet sanding will be the only thing to take it out. if your car is in good condition DO NOT compund, if you dont know what your doing here you can really screw your paint up.
Polish, get a good polish, make sure to use a soft polishing pad. polish the whole car, easy but time consuming.
Wax or seal, they make sealer waxes and just waxes. I use a carnuba wax on all my cars, gives a deep shine that lasts. apply it let it completely dry and then wipe off.
Tips, never do any of these steps in direct sunlight. it dries the product before it can do its job. get silicone free products. great place for all chemicals and detailing products is www.chemicalguys.com i use their stuff on my cars, and boat. only clay and poilish ever 6 to 8 months, waxing regularly will keep it looking good. if you use spray tire shine do it directly after washing, it will overspray all over your car and ruin all the work you just did.
Doing this makes my paint feel smoother than a babies ***. gives a deep shine and can make old look new.
enjoy hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 49
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Re: School me on auto detailing
I ran a detail shop for 5 years, good money in it but hard work. steps i take when I get a new car even a brand new car.
Wash.
Clay bar first!! very important, clay the whole damn vehicle. a good test for this is take the plastic wrap off a pack of ciggeretes and stick your fingers in it and rub it on you paint. youll feel every tiny paritcle stuck in your paint. clay removes those particles which are the cause of spider web scratching. test it while claying to ensure you get it all out. they make different density clay bars, I stick with medium, heavy is for paint over spray and such.
Compound?? only compund if the car needs it ie. bad spider web scratches or deep scratches that are buffable. to test a scratch run your finger nail over it, if you can feel the scratch you cant buff it out. you may be able to reduce it but wet sanding will be the only thing to take it out. if your car is in good condition DO NOT compund, if you dont know what your doing here you can really screw your paint up.
Polish, get a good polish, make sure to use a soft polishing pad. polish the whole car, easy but time consuming.
Wax or seal, they make sealer waxes and just waxes. I use a carnuba wax on all my cars, gives a deep shine that lasts. apply it let it completely dry and then wipe off.
Tips, never do any of these steps in direct sunlight. it dries the product before it can do its job. get silicone free products. great place for all chemicals and detailing products is www.chemicalguys.com i use their stuff on my cars, and boat. only clay and poilish ever 6 to 8 months, waxing regularly will keep it looking good. if you use spray tire shine do it directly after washing, it will overspray all over your car and ruin all the work you just did.
Doing this makes my paint feel smoother than a babies ***. gives a deep shine and can make old look new.
enjoy hope this helps.
Wash.
Clay bar first!! very important, clay the whole damn vehicle. a good test for this is take the plastic wrap off a pack of ciggeretes and stick your fingers in it and rub it on you paint. youll feel every tiny paritcle stuck in your paint. clay removes those particles which are the cause of spider web scratching. test it while claying to ensure you get it all out. they make different density clay bars, I stick with medium, heavy is for paint over spray and such.
Compound?? only compund if the car needs it ie. bad spider web scratches or deep scratches that are buffable. to test a scratch run your finger nail over it, if you can feel the scratch you cant buff it out. you may be able to reduce it but wet sanding will be the only thing to take it out. if your car is in good condition DO NOT compund, if you dont know what your doing here you can really screw your paint up.
Polish, get a good polish, make sure to use a soft polishing pad. polish the whole car, easy but time consuming.
Wax or seal, they make sealer waxes and just waxes. I use a carnuba wax on all my cars, gives a deep shine that lasts. apply it let it completely dry and then wipe off.
Tips, never do any of these steps in direct sunlight. it dries the product before it can do its job. get silicone free products. great place for all chemicals and detailing products is www.chemicalguys.com i use their stuff on my cars, and boat. only clay and poilish ever 6 to 8 months, waxing regularly will keep it looking good. if you use spray tire shine do it directly after washing, it will overspray all over your car and ruin all the work you just did.
Doing this makes my paint feel smoother than a babies ***. gives a deep shine and can make old look new.
enjoy hope this helps.
iv'e heard about chemical guys for quite a while now.. just never got around to ordering from them!
can you recommend the products i need from chemical guys.. for the quality of the paint on my car? :
Car is silver
original paint since 1986
clear is starting to become rough in some places, but still overall really good condition
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: San Diego
Car: 88 Iroc Z
Engine: 305
Re: School me on auto detailing
Sure,
Blue clay bar with their clay bar lube. I use their pro polish + with a white polish pad (pad will have to be matched with the type of buffer you have). I finish it off with their carnuba wax. get some good micro fiber towels while your at it. If you feel you need to compound use cut 2.0, you'll need a separate cutting pad if you go this path. that'll get her looking real nice. feel free to ask any questions, I enjoy contributing as so many others have.
Blue clay bar with their clay bar lube. I use their pro polish + with a white polish pad (pad will have to be matched with the type of buffer you have). I finish it off with their carnuba wax. get some good micro fiber towels while your at it. If you feel you need to compound use cut 2.0, you'll need a separate cutting pad if you go this path. that'll get her looking real nice. feel free to ask any questions, I enjoy contributing as so many others have.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Re: School me on auto detailing
Sure,
Blue clay bar with their clay bar lube. I use their pro polish + with a white polish pad (pad will have to be matched with the type of buffer you have). I finish it off with their carnuba wax. get some good micro fiber towels while your at it. If you feel you need to compound use cut 2.0, you'll need a separate cutting pad if you go this path. that'll get her looking real nice. feel free to ask any questions, I enjoy contributing as so many others have.
Blue clay bar with their clay bar lube. I use their pro polish + with a white polish pad (pad will have to be matched with the type of buffer you have). I finish it off with their carnuba wax. get some good micro fiber towels while your at it. If you feel you need to compound use cut 2.0, you'll need a separate cutting pad if you go this path. that'll get her looking real nice. feel free to ask any questions, I enjoy contributing as so many others have.
but a the moment i have no buffer, all the detailing i've ever done was by hand!
COTM Editor
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,098
Likes: 13
From: WINDSOR, CO
Car: 91 Z28, 87 SC, 90 IROC, 92 RS
Engine: LS1, 305 TPI, L98, NADA
Transmission: T56, 700r4's, and NADA
Axle/Gears: 3.89, 3.42, 3.23, NADA
Re: School me on auto detailing
Most places sell some sort of package that actually can be the best bang for your buck and is designed a beginners package... Here is a couple examples from a site I use when I have bought most of my supplies:
http://www.autogeek.net/hk7424.html
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-garag...ction-kit.html
Take a little time and browse the some the detailing sites, and don't get freaked out about buying an $80 wax or something. Stick with the basics and as you have polished a few cars you will start to learn what you like and what type of products will fit your needs. I have really liked the chemical guys stuff too.
COTM Editor
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 4,098
Likes: 13
From: WINDSOR, CO
Car: 91 Z28, 87 SC, 90 IROC, 92 RS
Engine: LS1, 305 TPI, L98, NADA
Transmission: T56, 700r4's, and NADA
Axle/Gears: 3.89, 3.42, 3.23, NADA
Re: School me on auto detailing
As far as investing in a polisher... It will pay for it self. Once your neighbors, and buddies see how nice of a job you can do, they will be offering to pay to have you polish their car. Trust me. I'm no professional, but I bet I do a side job a month at least. Pays for all my personal supplies and then some.
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 119
Likes: 1
From: Downey, CA
Car: 1989 IROC-Z, 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 350 TPI, 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R
Re: School me on auto detailing
Below is a step by step video walk through that you can use to guide yourself even if you don't have all the products they use.
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx
http://www.adamspolishes.com/t-videos.aspx
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,444
Likes: 75
From: Plant City, FL
Car: 1991 Firebird
Engine: 3.1L V6
Re: School me on auto detailing
If you're in search of a polisher, keep your eyes open. I just bought a Porter Cable 7346sp Random Orbital for $45 on clearance at Lowes.
A couple days earlier I went to Harbor Freight and bought THIS ONE . I read some good reviews on it on various web forums including autogeek and autopia. If $$ is a factor, this isn't a bad price at all. I searched for a coupon online for HF also and found 20% off.
The griots garage kit BADNBLK posted is also a decent deal.
A couple days earlier I went to Harbor Freight and bought THIS ONE . I read some good reviews on it on various web forums including autogeek and autopia. If $$ is a factor, this isn't a bad price at all. I searched for a coupon online for HF also and found 20% off.
The griots garage kit BADNBLK posted is also a decent deal.
Last edited by CharcoalBird; Apr 9, 2013 at 02:33 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 250
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From: NE Pa
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Convertible
Engine: 6.0 LQ4 LSX
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt w/4.11s
Re: School me on auto detailing
If you are inexperienced with a buffer your best bet would be to get a porter cable orbital. It is the best bang for your buck and with the right pads and compounds/polishes can do an excellent job. I have been detailing cars as a side job for the past 5 years. Take a look at both http://www.detailking.com and also chemicalguys.com as mentioned above.
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