what tools should i use to polish my tpi unit?

 

I hand sanded then buffed with a die grinder, a felt wheel and Tripoli. Yes, it took forever but I didn't want any tool marks. The runners actually come out ok just by rubbing them with aluminum polish.

 

A grinder with a flap disc for knocking down hard corners and the mold marks. I used a belt sander for the large flat area on the plenum to ensure it is flat. Then a DA palm sander for dry sanding. Use a dremel to speed up sanding in the small areas. Then hand sand the plenum for wet sanding. Wet sand to at least 600 grit. Some people say it's not needed past that while others scream about going to 2000 grit. I usually go to 800 and stop. Purchase a buffing kit from Eastwood or Harbor Freight for you drill. Purchase an inexpensive drill that you wont care if you burn the motor up or fry the bushings. For runners see if you can get a set of SLP runners as they polish up easily and beautifully! They are not the best performance wise though.... For the base most people have it powder coated black, natural aluminum or the chrome color. Polishing the base takes many, many hours and the end result is that it is hard to see through/beneath the plenum, runners, fuel rail and sensors.

 

I have the drill kit and found the drill wasn't able to turn enough RPMs.

 

Might have bought a drill that just didn't turn fast enough. Lots of drills are only for wood. Or you didn't sand it well enough. You can also buy the polishing wheels for a bench grinder.

 

Mac sells wheels that mount to a die grinder. Comes out perfect but takes a while. The bench grinder wheel would be ideal if you have the space.

 

Polishing is a progressive process.
I use various grits of cartridge rolls combined with hand work, expansion wheels and belt sanders to remove the casting marks and ridges. Once smoothed out, I get to the small spaces with bobs and felts, then I move to the buff jack using various wheels and compounds.
If you haven't ever polished before, expect to spend many hours on it.
The end result will be worth it.

When properly polished, all that's needed to keep the shine is to wash it like the exterior of your car and wipe it down between washings. You could have it cleared or powder coated, but IMO it dulls the shine. And if it gets any abrasions, it has to be redone to remove the marks. Where-as with a good polish, it just takes a few minutes to refinish it.
Coatings also tend to discolor.
JMO...YMMV.

 

Stacey David, on his 'Gearz' show mentioned these products for polished aluminum: http://www.sharkhide.com

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/plenumpolish

pretty sure you can apply this to base and runners too.

 

Anything applied after polishing would need to be removed if there was damage that needed repair, i.e. scuffs or scratches. There are several coatings that can be applied to minimize maintenance, but shouldn't be required if polished correctly.

That is more sanding and time than should be put forth. Shouldn't need to sand past 220/240 grit.

If you read this procedure, it's contradictive. Use Mother's polish to get the mirror shine, but after that, don't use Mother's polish as it will dull the shine.


"After you have wetsanded with 1500, buff out again with 3M restorer. Follow with MOTHERS aluminum polish and you should have a "mirror" professional looking shine.

CARE TIPS:
DO NOT use mothers or any other type of "aluminum" polish once the plenum has been high polished. Simply use Windex and streak with paper towels. Rubbing compound, Mothers, Blue Magic, and any other "aluminum" polish will leave fine scratches that will dull the shine."

 

I am using 400 grit sand paper and red scotch bright pad results so far

 

.....

 

You'll have a lot of time in polishing those runners, make sure you have no interest in upgrading them to better flowing aftermarket runners before you finish.

 

It's a ton of work. Slowly graduate to finer and finer paper until you get down to wet paper lubed with machine oil. Then finish with Autosol metal polish. Make sure to get an aluminum distributor cover from a Corvette and polish to match.