I noticed some overspray on my front bumper the other day. I have no idea what it's from, but it's annoying me. It's not super awful, and you can't see it til you get close, but there are a lot of little pin ***** size black dots that I figure must be overspray from something, not sure what. I tried scratch and swirl remover, but it's not responding well to that. What do you suggest I use that will clean this up w/o screwing up my paint and CC? Clay bar?

 

they sell an over spray clay....i don't know if it's like an automotive detail clay bar...google how to remove over spray.

 

Try a clay bar kit they sell them at any auto parts store and work great just plan on waxing the car when your done....




http://www.walmart.com/ip/15137646?w...925912&veh=sem

 

Ok.... I googled overspray removal, but I like real life feedback from other posters too. Clay bar was what came to mind, I'll look into it. And BTW 87350, by waxing you mean actual WAX and not the spray stuff, right? I use the Turtlle Wax spray for a quick wax job after a wash and it works pretty well. Just figured this treatment might need something more susbstantial? Thx!

 

Yes after using clay bar you want to use actual wax and wax the whole car or whatever area you used the clay bar on.

 

I used the clay bar to remove some light over spray. Worked fine.

JamesC

 

YES on the claybar.....you will be surprised on how well it works. Then wax/polish

 

I used nevrdull, worked just fine as well.

 

if you're not using a clay bar on your car at least once a year you need to start anyway

 

Real life experience? My car was in a body shop for a year, the overspray was horrid when it came out. A few hours of clay and it was slick as glass. The stuff works well.

 

A lot of times auto wax will remove it (if it's originally spray can overspray), if not step up to mild polishing compound (not rubbing compound!)

 

NanoSkin Autoscrub on the DA. Good clay lube.

Never touch a clay bar again. Works wonders.

 

Turtle Wax scratch and swirl got some of it, but it's a little too stubborn for that to work totally. It's spray can overspray as near as I can tell, but I still can't figure out if I did it, or what happened. The area where it's at wasn't exposed to spray paint that I can recall.

 

Claybar can remove them. If not, try something a more aggressive clay.

 

Blackbmagic is right. NANOSKIN DA pad or nanoskin skin sponge with sufficient clay lube.

 

I used to work for a national overspray removal company, traveling around in 4-man teams to large insurance claims and removing everything from tiny paint dots to airborne concrete.

We used different grades of clay, each color coded for identification. Grey was the hardest composition and pretty much for all-around use of removing paint overspray, but wears your hand out pretty quick from how hard it is. Red is the most aggressive, but very soft and easy on the hands. It can't be used on dark paints or black because it has a very fine pumice in it that easily scratches clearcoats. Blue was another good clay, safer to use on dark paints and nearly as aggressive as the red, and a soft enough composition to not kill your hands after an hour of use. As for what is available aftermarket that is directly comparable to these, I can't say.

To use the clay you need only two other items; a spray bottle with water and a small amount of detergent in it (soap), and a clean terry cloth towel. The soap in the water breaks up the surface tension and helps prevent evaporation, and provides a lubricant for the clay. NEVER attempt to clay a dry surface, and keep it thoroughly wet. You should also constantly knead the clay to expose fresh surface and keep it pliable. Spraying the clay with the water while you knead it helps a lot as well. The clay will glide over the surface easily once the overspray is removed. The towel is to dry each area you've done to check your work. Wash the car thoroughly by hand first, not an automatic wash or spray wash. You want to physically remove as much contaminant as possible before claying. After claying, wash it by hand again, then chamois the whole thing dry. Apply a good paste wax, I recommend yellow 26 carnuba, to protect the paint from any new contaminants. If you have a scratched clearcoat you can use a swirl remover first before waxing. Use as much shade as possible to keep yourself and the surface cool during the entire process.

We also had access to some amazing oils that would revitalize faded single stage paints. One old Chevy truck brought to us looking like a faded dull pinkish-red fire hydrant brightened and shined up to a beautiful fire engine red after the oil process, although it was highly labor intensive. I'm not sure what the commercial equivalent of that product was, but I would love to have some! We also had some cleaner waxes that we used solely on the "lowers" (anything below the bodyline) to remove road grime. They went on and off like wax and did wonders. Another trick is using 0000 steel wool to clean auto glass (EXCEPT side view mirrors, the glass is too soft and will scratch) and chrome. If you're careful you can also use a single edge razor blade to remove overspray on glass, and even paint. You've got to REALLY know what you're doing for this method but it does work, and goes way faster than clay.

The way the clay works is by actually grabbing the overspray to remove it. You can look at the surface you applied to the car and see the removed "dots" on the clay. Most of the stuff we removed was paint from water towers and other large industrial equipment that had been painted carelessly, with some of the claimants miles downwind from the source. We spent a good summer in South Carolina removing overspray from some 500+ employee cars of a large paper mill after they painted a huge trestle crane for offloading logs from train cars.

 

Thx Chimaera, that's very helpful!