hey guys, just bought an 88 formula firechicken, 5.0 tpi, but anyway, the rear hatch motor doesn't work worth Sh*t. it buzzes, and i end up heaving my 90 pound hatch open, no fun. so would it work to just replace the struts that hold the hatch open with the manual one? what do i have to do to get the damn thing a manual setup, any ideas at all guys???

 

yes i also would like to get rid of my broke motor hatch and put a manual one in..whut needs to be done?

 

I just don't feel like reposting on it...
Hatch Motor made to manual hatch
Hope this guides you in the right direction!
Read what I posted about halfway through the thread...
Good information.

 

snowdog, thatnks for that post but it was a little vague and i need more details, but my hatch closes right now, and opens with the key, i was thinking i might just finf the power wire for the damn thing and cut it so it won't growl at me whenever i try to open the hatch! Any more info, and maybe some pics, or a new TECH ARTICLE(since this seems to be a common problem) would be nice! Thanks!

 

What would you like to know? The motor assembly can be totally removed. You are left with the mount and the plastic guides on the rails on each side. (Unless the rails are cracked or broken off)
The latch will move freely up and down.
Next, you use something to hold the latch in place.
Adjust it up and down until you get it in the right spot.
Weld the rail to the latch.

I will take some pictures sometime in the future.

 

well, thanks for clearing that up a little bit, i'm still not sure what you mean by "plastic guides" or anything like it because i just picked the car up about 5 hours ago, i'm sure once i pull the panel off i'll see what you are talking about. Thanks.

 

You will see them once you see the motor.
Remove the motor and you will see.
There are plastic glide inserts between the rail and the latch that guide the latch up and down.
Just position the latch so it seats nice, then weld the rail to the latch on both sides.
It's very simple to do. Doesn't take that long either. Maybe 20 minutes.

 

When the hatch is closed, can you pull it up at all? If it comes up a little, then I may know how to fix it. Does anyone have a pick of the hatch motor installed without the panel on and from the front?

 

I manufacture new nylon guides for the 86-91 hatch pull-down units. Mine are a direct drop-in replacement and much stronger than the OEM injection molded disaster GM used. At the request of my customers I also stock gearnuts & reinforced GM motor housings. I specially reinforce the housings with 4 pieces of aluminum and epoxy where they are weak. E-mail me if you need further info or wish to purchase any of these.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
e-mail: topdownsolutions@yahoo.com

 

I saw a few at the boneyard in SoCal last weekend. If I new that they were that pricey, I would have grabbed them all. I just grabbed a newer plastic bottom piece, mine had broken off at the last screw, and a newer screw motor. I will bind the weak areas with epoxy prior to installing the new/used part.

 

Sounds to me, that if the motor is working, unlocking as well as drawing the hatch down, that all you need to do is replace the struts. Thats what assists you in lifting the 500 pound piece of glass. If its the motor and all, contact "lonsal" (posted above) at Topdownsolutions@yahoo.com. He heped me out and within budget. All is working great now..........:hail: Top Down Solutions