How much do you think a kit will cost to do each of these tasks? any ideas???


While im here I might as well ask, does anyone have rear window louvers, front headlight louvers or rear tail light blackouts for sale at the current time?

 

If you do all the body work yourself then expect to pay around 500 bux for the handle & antenna project. I hope you dont plan on going to the race track w/ the shaved handles cause the NHRA rules say you have to have an exterior handle in case of an accident

 

thanks for the tidbit about the NHRA, i did not know that

 

If you're still intrested, theres some stuff on Redraif's site about how we shaved the door handles, gas filler, and antenna. Its about two-three hours worth of welding and grinding. You can get a basic popper/solenoid/remote kit from Summit (VPA), thats the one she has. I think its around $125. The upgraded kit with a 10 function remote and the seperate poppers is about $175. For the antenna, you could cut it down and reinstall it inside the fender, or even under the dash. Electronic ones are available too, but I understand they don't work as well.

As an alternative to shaved doorhandles, you could install nicer looking flush doorhandles if you race (deadbird did this, though I don't know if he finished it yet).

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...191601&page=15

 

If you know how to use fiberglass, the actual body work can be done very cheaply. Only real money is for poppers and stuff...I did my antenna today. I fiberglassed over the hole..3 layers of glass is mighty strong, Especially for a 1 inch hole!

 

I shaved mine by welding the hole shut, griding to make it flush, sanding and filling the small spots with filler. It looks so much better without an antenna.

 

when you shave the antenna what needs to be done to get the radio to work?

 

You can shorten or bend the mast, and leave it inside the fender, or relocate it under the dash (easier with a smaller aftermarket antenna), or use an electronic one like a lot of street rod shops sell.

Fiberglass will work, but its doubtful that it will last more than a couple years. Fiberglass and steel expand at different rates, and it eventually will crack. Considering how little welding is required, the cost should be low even if you have to pay someone to do it for you. Cutting the patch panels for the welder will probably get you a lower price.

 

The biggest reason I use fiberglass is ease and previous experiance...I have seen lots of cracking with Bondo...But I shaved handles, gas filler, and molded a porsche wing on my bug when I was 13 and its still stronger then ever with not one single crack! I just use results as my evidence

 

cool, any pics of the bug?

 

No, I sold it this last year...now have another bug, a 73 Super Beetle...Just installed 3 inch wider fenders and a whale tail spoiler on this one....My plans for this one are bagged with 17s! This bug is probably gonna be the show peice of my shop I am atempting to start up...

 

Where do you put the gas in at after you shave the gas filler?

 

i shaved my antenna off, i just took the antenna off, got a piece of metal, stuck it under the hole , tact welded it , and sanded it down. looks good.

 

..On the bug, you pop the hood on the front, Since thats where the tank is on a bug...On a truck you route it through the bed, OJn a Camaro, you could route it to come out in the hatch area..

 

i have rear louvers i can sell ya...i need to get rid of them..just takin up space...pm me for more details

 

$75 to shave the antenna here in Florida....