I got a good sized hole in the driverside pan. They affected area(including most of the rust) goes from the front seat support all the way to the rear seat bump. It also is from the tranny tunnel to the door sill. I was thinking of making new supports out of folded sheetmetal and pop riveting them in. Then I would put a 40" X 25" piece of metal on it. Also, I would use 3 or 4 supports running from the tranny tunnel to the sill and 1 or 2 supports running the length of the floorboard. I will be treating the rust with rust killer and put some rubberized undercoating on.

What do you think?

What guage metal should I use?

Would this work?

How should I attach the metal to the tranny tunnel? I am afraid of drilling holes for the rivets there.

Any other ideas?

Oh, and how is the floorpan held on to the car? Bolted on or welded in? How do you get the seat belt latches out? I can't get them loose! The bolts are in there way to tight

Thanks,

Matt

 

Alright, I got the metal, I am going to rivet it in, Only problem though is how should I form the metal? I dont know what shape to put it in. Everything fromthe front seat brace back to the rear seat is gone. Basically that "dip" in it is gone, with only part of the vertical/sloping section left.
How many rivets should I put in? What size rivets? Also, I need a new seat brace, how should I put that in? Would rivets hold it?

Thanks
Matt

 

Can any one give me advice on this? I dont do body repairs like this.

Matt

 

Matt-
You can form the metal with a rubber mallet or small sledge over a piece of wood-or something else the same shape that you are trying to fit. If you don't know what shape- just shape it like the passenger side. You should make it fit as close to the original as possible so carpet will fit about the same. Make sure you cut the patch big enough to rivit to solid metal
Welding the patch in would be best because it will help restore some strength lost. You can probably find someone who can do it near you for a $100 or less. And it will be a much better repair. If you don't care about that, put in as many rivits as you can to prevent rattles and keep the edges down.
Use seam sealer or undercoating on both sides-maybe put some down before riviting to protect that edge.

 

What did you get for the floor? Steel or aluminum? Aluminum would be easier to form & drill for the rivits-it also won't rust again. You have to use steel if you are going to have it welded. Rivet size (diameter)is not important- (pop rivets. right?) Just get ones that are long enough to go thru original metal and your patch material. The box of rivets should say what thickness they will hold.
FYI:
16 gage .060"
18 gage .050"
20 gage .036"
22 gage .030"
24 gage .024"
I think original sheetmetal is 20 or 22 gage.
Take a look underneath before drilling tunnel or anywhere so you don't drill thru wire or any lines.
Bolt or weld seat brace in-use seam sealer under washers.
Seat belts- squirt some wd-30 or penetrating oil on 'em for a few days. If your floor is that rusty, you might have a big problem getting them out.

 

Thanks. I hit a tree today so I dont need to worry anymore. I think the car repairs needed is beyond what I can pay or do.

Matt

 

Ouch! Sorry to here that...