Striker Bolt
Striker Bolt
My door has been sagging ever so slightly lately. Its not like the door doesn't open and closely properly all the time, its just it takes a lot of effort to "PUSH" the door open, and "SLAM" it shut these days. There are days when talking dirty to the car allows for the door to open and close without effort
I've done that test where you open the door fully and lift it up and down to see if there is any play with the bushings...there isn't. The whole car just moves...so I think the bushings are fine.
The striker bolt doesn't seem to be very adjustable. I had seen a recomendation for a door alignment tool ( http://http://www.top-downsolutions....1c42df6e2bfc2b ), but don't see how thats going to do anything if you can't adjust that bolt?
Any help would be appreciated
I've done that test where you open the door fully and lift it up and down to see if there is any play with the bushings...there isn't. The whole car just moves...so I think the bushings are fine.
The striker bolt doesn't seem to be very adjustable. I had seen a recomendation for a door alignment tool ( http://http://www.top-downsolutions....1c42df6e2bfc2b ), but don't see how thats going to do anything if you can't adjust that bolt?
Any help would be appreciated
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
If you find the door latch is catching on the door striker bolt, more than likely either the hinges have worn or the door hinge has bent from the weight of that long heavy door (or both). Test the condition of your door hinges first. Open the door fully and lift up on the end of the door while someone watches the hinge for movement. The striker bolt isn't adjustable for location. You could remove it and elongate the hole, but I wouldn't recommend it. If you find the door hinges are OK, then you may need to just re-align the door using that tool I sell. The tool will allow you to correct the alignment by re-bending the hinge back to its original location.
FYI, I also repair hinges for my local customers using the 3rdGen Solutions repair kit I sell. The last door I replaced had VERY badly worn hinges. The lower hinge bushings were broken and 80% missing. The holes were so worn that I had to use JB Weld to reinstall them. I also had to use JB Weld when installing one of the new upper hinge bushings. Getting back to my reason to mention this. I was amazed that the door required no alignment after the hinge repair. It just closed beautifully. I've had to align all the other doors I've done to-date using that tool. It just illustrates that either condition (worn hinges or sagged hinges) can cause the problem you are experiencing.
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
FYI, I also repair hinges for my local customers using the 3rdGen Solutions repair kit I sell. The last door I replaced had VERY badly worn hinges. The lower hinge bushings were broken and 80% missing. The holes were so worn that I had to use JB Weld to reinstall them. I also had to use JB Weld when installing one of the new upper hinge bushings. Getting back to my reason to mention this. I was amazed that the door required no alignment after the hinge repair. It just closed beautifully. I've had to align all the other doors I've done to-date using that tool. It just illustrates that either condition (worn hinges or sagged hinges) can cause the problem you are experiencing.
Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions
Oops...the link was
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/pro...1c42df6e2bfc2b
Any ways, I'll try moving the door up and down again..this time with someone checking the hinges out.
Thanks
http://www.top-downsolutions.com/pro...1c42df6e2bfc2b
Any ways, I'll try moving the door up and down again..this time with someone checking the hinges out.
Thanks
Wouldn't it be better to MIG the holes back up instead of J.B. weld? Reason I ask is because I am about to get the deluxe repair kit from Hawks and when I remove the bushings if the hinge itself is worn I would probably try to add surface with MIG welding... I can see the reasoning for JB weld for simplicity sake though. Would it hold up ok? I don't want to go through the hassle of welding, grinding and drilling unless I have to though.
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I suppose you could MIG weld the holes. But do you have a right-angle head drill to re-drill them to size after? I don't. My best recommendation is to replace them LONG BEFORE they are worn to that degree.
Lon
Lon
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Supreme Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 1
From: Chicago, Il
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: Lt1
Transmission: T56
I just redid my hinge on the drivers side with the Top Down Solutions kit. I was experiencing the same thing you were. I felt no play when lifting the door and decided to try it any way. It worked like a dream. The door feels like new and doesn't catch anything now. By the way Lon, shipping was incredibly fast. The only down fall of the product itself is the lack of pictures along with the instructions. What the h3ll is a swage anyway
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work. Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 5,964
Likes: 37
From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
I'm glad you were succesfull in installing the kit. If I had created the instructions, you'd have pictures. There are pictures of the steps on 3rgGenSolutions web site. Andy was in my area today on business. I got to meet with him and Pam for roughly 15 minutes before they had to catch their flight back home. He kept raving about my car. I like it.
Back to work.
Lon
Back to work.
Lon
Last edited by lonsal; Jul 31, 2003 at 09:39 PM.
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