I'm looking to get a harwood cowl hood and was wondering what the difference is between the two? Which is better?

 

If you get a lift-off, you are always going to need a 2nd person to help you get the hood off to do any work on your engine. *** help you if you are by yourself and have an engine fire (not very likely). Bolt on will be just like your hoodis now, and you don't even need hoop pins if you don't want them.

 

If there was an engine fire, screw the hood, throw the damn thing off and save your engine and your car. You can always get a new hood much easier than an engine or car.

 

i'd go with a bolt on basically just 2 hoodpins to add and then you have your hood struts if you do any work

 

an OLD accuaintance of mine had a lift off cowl hood, he could take it off by himself easily, they are fiberglass you know, they dont way 50 lbs lol.

 

Does anyone have the weights of a bolt on compared to a lift-off?

 

With a bolt-on, the fiberglass is typically heavier than a lift-off hood, and you can use the stock hood latch. Basically, it's like a stock-style hood only fiberglass.

With a lift-off hood you have to use hood pins to secure it in place- it does not bolt to the stock hood latch. Lift-off hoods are generally lighter weight for racing.

If you really want a lift-off hood, you can probably take it off by yourself if you're careful. I have a Harwood bolt-on hood and I can get it on and off by myself. But then again, I don't care about my paintjob yet...

 

i have a glasstek lift off and i can take it off by myself, although with two people i definately feel better about it since the hood isn't being stressed as much, but that might be due to the fact that i can't pick it up in the exact middle by myself.

 

I got a glasstek bolt on cowl hood last week and it fit great. i wouldnt get a liftoff unless your's is a race only car.

 

Lift off isn't as practical, but it seems to be MUCH cheaper. I had a lift off cowl hood on my '72 Nova and easily removed it myself.

 

how many inches is that hood tough guy?

 

5" here's some pics of it now

 

and another

 

out on the backroad gettin loose

 

Wow! Nice work c-u-later.

 

 

Thanks guy's !

 

heres another one

 

can i get some specs on that bad boy there c-u-later. looks like it's pulling the tires nicely. hopefully mine will do that soon enough as well.

just finished my 6 point cage as well. now onto interior work.

 

Its got a 355 small block with a steel crank ,steel rods and 12.1 TRW pistons also a solid roller custom ground cam,Brownsfield alluminum heads that have 2.08 int and 1.60ex valves,brownsfield roller rockers and stud gurdle toped off by a Brodix intake and a flow modified Barry Grant 750 cfm Holley double pumper. Im also running a modified HEI dist for use with a exturnal coil and a Digital 6 plus ignition box, also a Fairbanks turbo 350 transmition and no trany brake. out back i have a Currie 9" with 4.86 gears and a spool. I also put in a AJE tubular cross member this last winter to lighten up the front end and make more room for the custom headmen headers. i put a 8 point rollbar in 2 years ago and 5 point harnises but it has a full interior minus the back seats. we also painted it this last winter. the color is Dupont chrome illution- true blasberry prizm. thats it for now,there is alot more but a think thats what you were looking for!

 

Hop she goes... hop she goes.

Damn that's a sweet color. Great car.

Back On Topic.... I prefer a pin-on fiberglass hood rather than a bolt on. Yes the bolt-ons are more convenient to open and close by yourself, but the struts and latch put stress on the hood. Over time it leads to dents here and there (more like stretched bulges since it's not metal), specifically above the rubber stop mounts when you close the hood. My hood warps like crazy when I try to open it and one side will usually get snagged on a fender. A good quality pin-on is the way to go for fiberglass, imo. Learn how to remove it on your own... where there's a will, there's a way.