Call me crazy, but I've been thinking of having the underside of my car and the interior (underneath the carpet, not as a finish) sprayed with rhino lining as a rust, vibration, and noise deadener, the only thing stopping me is that I race my car alot and weight is a big factor. So, does anybody happen to know how much rhino lining itself weighs? Anybody wanna take a guess at how much weight I'd add to my car by doing the entire underbody and entire floorpan? Any opinions/feeback/whatever either positive or negative? Is there any good reason not to do it? I do plan to strip the car completely and block off all the bolt holes.

On a related side note...Does anybody know how hard it is to get rhino lining off if I decide to weld something new to bottom?

 

I can't it see it weighing much more than dynamat material. However, with dynamat you decide how much to apply.

 

hey this is a great thread!!! in 2002 I put a new motor in my Trans Am and I scrubbed the entire engine bay down with a tooth brush believe it or not and every little crack and creavous just sparkled it was so clean. b/c this engine bay had seen nearly 20 years with the original 305 before I pulled it for a new motor the paint and any finish anywhere was in bad shape. I went to Napa and bought a couple cans of truck bed liner and sprayed my entire engine bay and it turned out pretty good but Rhino would be much better I think. how is that stuff applied???? and how much does it cost???that stuff would make any engine bay that has seen alot of years look good.

 

"Rhino Linings' sprayed-on TUFF STUFF® polyurethane provides durable watertight and airtight truck bed protection. By forming a permanent bond with the surface of your truck bed, the lining prohibits rust, corrosion and surface abrasion from damaging the truck and reducing its value, performance and attractiveness. The unique flexible, textured, non-porous lining is easy to clean and doesn't crack or warp, even under the most rugged conditions. Rhino's non skid, non abrasive surface texture helps keep your cargo load in place and insulates against annoying road vibration and noise.
Available in virtually any color to complement your vehicle, the attractive linings are sprayed on up to a 1/4" thick on truck beds, and can be even thicker for other applications. Paints or coatings are simply no match for that kind of truck bed protection. TUFF STUFF® polyurethane is environmentally-friendly, solvent-free and resists fuels, fertilizers, and most corrosive chemicals."

"Depending on the options (colors, over the truck bed rails, etc.) a typical truck bed lining will cost between $350 and $500. Because each dealership is independently owned and operated, prices will vary. "

"Does it fade?
A UV topcoat will help, your lining will maintain its original gloss and color."

"Do not use silicon-based products on your lining as they will reduce its skid resistance."

- Taken from RhinoLinings.com

in addition, their industrial division is used in the following applications..
"CJ-7 Jeep interior and exterior
Howitzer interior
Hummer interior and exterior
Naval Special Warfare Group exterior
Acid treatment facility I-beams
Forklift fork covers
Hazardous waste handling components
Hazardous waste incinerator plant floor
Gasoline storage tank repair
Sandblasting facility walls and floors
Sewage tank exterior
Slurry reservoir interior
Slurry tank interior
Snow plow blades"
-taken from rhinoliningsindustrial.com

http://www.rhinolinings.com/realrhin...cal_specs.html
the above link has some very impressive specifications as well


That leaves me highly impressed and it seems perfect for underbody protection, engine bay lining, and floorpan coating. I'd still like to know how much it weighs. I don't suspect I'd need a very thick coat, 1/8" would be more than enough.

 

call them and ask.

i had it done on my truck, and it can't weigh more than a plastic bedliner does

 

I would like to get my inner fender wells rhino lined, I think it would give it a nice clean look and it would be storng. What do you think?

 

a ****ing howitzer....Cool

 

Wouldn't POR-15 work too? I have been hearing alot about them and how they are excellent on preventing rust.

Sean

 

POR-15 is good, but it's thin and UV sensitive, for underbody i believe it'd chip alot (did my engine bay from bare metal and there's alot flaked off now...6mo's later) It's not all that chemical resistant, it's more of a preservative than a protectant covering. I'm not knocking POR-15, it's a good product for some applications, but I can't see it taking the abuse most of our cars see on the underside.

And rubberized undercoating has some of the same problems, it tends to flake off and I've heard rumors of a few brands that actually absorb and retain water....actually promoting rust.

 

ive thought about doing that as well. has anyone tried it?

 

por works very well for rust. the lining your talking about is great if your not going to put carpet in. much like you would with a race car, did a buddies hatchback lx with it and it turned out surprisingly well.

getting it off is a pain though and asthetic wise on a daily driver it would be fine for the wheel wells but i personally prefer the smooth painted look. whatever you do i'd only paint it on things you know you want it on there...

 

I had a Friend that Used to apply that stuff Professionaly when it first came out(he went to their shop and trained on how to intall the stuff correctly) he pretty much told me that though it nice it can get heavy very fast if you dont watch your thickness.

Prob the best thing to do is find out how thick it gonna be then find a comparable amount of rubber mat....should weight about the same or close too it. Though im no expert

 

well if i were to paint the wheel wells it would chip and ding real quick driving down the road (the car is gonna be a show car/weekend driver). what other options do i have other then using that ugly brownish undercoating that came on there originaly?

 

dupont sells the stuff.

TRUCK BED LINER, you can buy a gallon of it for 40 bucks. We used it to paint the interior for my buddy's Audi rally car.

The gallon of it weighed like... 5-8lbs.

They also sell it in spray cans.

A lot cheaper, and just as good as the real stuff.

 

well to be honest what i did is took a good stiff brush and with your wheel removed and the car on a jack stand i went and cleaned up the well really good. afterwords i took some flat black paint and a brush (no overspary) and went to town on the inside of the fender..............you could rhino coat or whatever you want to do but i didn't want to spend the money nor time to do something un necessary like that.

with the new paint job i will be smoothing out all of the wells and painting them to match the car. of course i'll have to have custom covers made to protect them when driving but i like the clean look better myself.

but on to the topic, save money and just paint it......

 

take the can of liner liquid you are going to use and weigh it.
when youre done applying it weigh the can again.

 

I just did a bed side on a chevy truck with a 6 foot bed.The rino liner it had in it was atleast 1/2 inch thick and it add about 30 to 50 pounds to the bed. There was 4 of us and that bed was heavy.
I don't know if they would put it on thinner might not hold up as long,and if u ever have to take a bolt out that is covered with that stuff good luck. I think the POR-15 would be better.