I just stripped my whole car down to the metal with 80 grit, and then did a final sanding with 320 grit.

After that, I put on some etching primer out of a rattle can (The NAPA special) directly onto the bare metal. I'm starting to wonder if I should have used this cheap stuff though. Is it just as good as the stuff from a paint shop? Or is etching primer etching primer? I am not looking for a $10k finish - just repainting factory colors to get it looking the way it used to before all of the scratches.

Has anyone used this rattle can etching before???

Thanks

 

I also got some questions about rattle can primer that I will add Is it okay to use rattle can primer? Any bad affects? Im going to be doing all the prep work myself and then taking it to get painted.

 

If the car is indoors and you are just using it to cover the bare areas while doing body work, I would say yes, but before being painted I would really take it back down to bare metal and use so DP80 or DP90 it's not only a primer but Sealer also. Caution: before using DP80 Or DP90 make sure to have a well ventilated area with proper breathing equipment. It contains some very very Harmfull stuff if inhaled.

 

DP80 or DP90? Where do I get that and what do I need to apply it?

Thanks

 

Go to your local automotive paint store and see if they carry it. Also they will be able to let you know the proper breathing equipment. Let them know what your doing and listen to their sugguestions. Their the pros

 

it is perfectly fine to use rattle can . it is the same thing. the funny smell it has is the acid so yes it does etch the metal. i AM using it on my smaller parts but not actual body panels ONLY because rattle cans don't spray that even. your rattle can may be a different color than variprime or others but IS the same thing. just don't buy any from wal-mart, never know what that is.
(jk they probobly dont' have it)
it shouldn't rust and, make sure u scuff it up b/fore u paint or seal it.

probobly not AAAASSSS good as factory but paint suppliers are getting incredibly good at paint and paint chemistry.

 

it maybe the same thing but Unless it is a sealer also it will absorb moisture and eventually surface rust if you don't take it down to bare metal and Prime/seal before Appling Base Coat. This is my experiance.

Use rattle can while doing body work but Take it to bare metal then reprime be for Actuallly painting.

 

can you explain to me why the heck you sanded your car to bare metal with 80 grit sandpaper. there is no meed to sand a car to the bare metal. The factory primer is the best primmer and a great place to STOP sanding at. You only sand to metal if there is rust to be grinded away, have fun with your priming now

 

Quote:

can you explain to me why the heck you sanded your car to bare metal with 80 grit sandpaper. there is no meed to sand a car to the bare metal. The factory primer is the best primmer and a great place to STOP sanding at. You only sand to metal if there is rust to be grinded away, have fun with your priming now

Well I had to go down to the primer anyway because the paint was flaking and cracking. And once I hit hit the primer I usually ended up accidentally going strait thru to the steel. So I ended up with about 50/50 factory primer / steel.

I would have to have bought a shiload of primer anyway

 

Quote:

it maybe the same thing but Unless it is a sealer also it will absorb moisture and eventually surface rust if you don't take it down to bare metal and Prime/seal before Appling Base Coat. This is my experiance.

This is what the paint shops said yesterday.

You need etching primer, then put on the sandable primer where necessary, then a sealer right before you put down the base coat.

Well, now that I will be needing a spray gun, does anybody have any suggestions? I plan on painting the thing too right away with the gun too.

 

I can prove the level of intelligence on his board real easy.

take some DP80 Or DP90 and mix it into a rattle can.

Everyone will says its junk and not to use it.


Rattle can is not a problem if you buy quality. Anything can be put in a can. I can put some crystal in a rattle can so puff daddy can spray his ***** down with it.

Long as your buying a good name brand product. Being in a rattle can makes no difference, though it may not spray as even as a gun.

I use rattle can myself to cover my work but I do sand it off before any real painting.

 

If you go to a paint store and have any paint or primer mixed in a rattle can it is still the same quality if it was sprayed with a gun. Now as for Intelligence, 90 percent of the people who ask about rattle can primer are buying a primer from lowes or walmart and not a quality primer that will work for automotive use. I don't care if you spend $4000.00 on a paint job if the primer & sealer aren't done right or with shoty craftsmanship the rest of the paint job will eveantuly SUCK.

Alot of body shops will use a roll on primer on the front and back bumpers on our cars. Most people have never heard of roll on primer but it does exist. So please do not try to insult the intelligence of the people on this board, when somone post a question they should expect different oppinions. Then decide for their self which way to go.

 

rofl, actually bottledz28 taking it to bare metal would be the best way if it was ur pride n joy and u r keeping it. u can fix all the dents and all that and plus lol u can run into MTPFI-MAF's surface rust under his corrosion protecton? whats that all about, corrosion protections don't EVER absorb moisture. And also u can fix all his rustouts because he used a DP90 primer sealer to corrosion protect his car because he was afraid of it rusting because it is a PRIMER SEALER!!!!!! i don't know bout u but i sure as **** don't give my car any baths with just undercoat on it.

 

In are shop we use rattle can etching primer on everything but just a small amout (just covering the bare metal)Than were theres bondo work or paint edges they use reg. primer.Than they use a sealer and go over the hole thing.On my cars i try not to go down to the bare metal unless i have to.

 

I think someone lost the point of my post. Go get a piece of bare steel, Go buy some CHEAP WAL-MART PRIMER spray the steel and set it in your garage for a week and then tell me that it wont show signs of rust. The point of my post is if you use a good quality Primer, wheather it is sprayed in a Paint gun or the paint store mixes it in a rattle can, it is the same thing just use a quality product.

 

have u ever done this? how would it rust if its in ur garage, and u never get water on it?


that is true about the same thing being in a rattlecan if u have a paint mixing station mix it up in a rattle can for u. who missed the point of that, that's kinda self-explanatory. i don't think you'll run into wal mart brand paints at a paint mix place, they're probobly only using martin seniour or dupont or ppg etc.

and yes if ur buying rattlecan primer don't get it from wal-mart, but get the good stuff, i think mine i got is martin seniour.

oh and MTPFI-MAF i have a door that is bare metal, it has been that way for about a school year now, and it doesnt even have surface rust on it, so, honest question, is that nasty wal-mart primer like a rust accelerator or...

 

The moisture in the air will make it rust even under the primer.U might not be able to see it but i would not spray paint on top of a panel that has sat for that long in just primer.Primer does not seal the metal unless its a primer + sealer.

 

Please explain---










if u have some bare metal and u spray paint it w/ crap primer, how will moisture that is in the air make it's way onto the metal underneath.

is moisture from the air like immune to crap primer or something...

 

primer is porous. there is moisture in the air, and because the primer is porous, the water can easily get to the bare metal undernieth.

what you need is a SEALER or primer/sealer.

 

no one ever said anything about but paint over the wal-mart primer.I would think cheap primer would be ok if u but it on than painted it.But i would not take the chance of doing that a gallon of dupont primer is only like 70 bucks and than sealer only need a qurter thats like15 bucks.So y even use the wal-mart kind of primer.To much work and cost of paint to use wal-mart primer.if u want to use rattle can primer get a good bran it might cost like 5 bucks more.We use RM at are shop And it is a etching and regular primer in one.But make sure u were a mask the stuff is ruff.

 

so lets just stay off the subject of crap primer, we all know to not use that on our vehicles.


not sure if your still talking about crap primer or etching or just all primers here but if self etching primer is porous and absorbs moisture and all that then why is it a corrosion protection. ask anybody that knows what they are talking about and they will say that it is a corrosion protection . so y would we call corrosion protections just that if they allow moisture to contact the metal? hmmmmmmm. and y is it okay to wetsand guidecoat off of primer? hmmmmmmmm.??????

 

i have never in my life seen someone wetsand a guide coat.
and if they did... we'll they're a idiot.

 

Well the paniters at are shop wet sand there primer.But than they paint it.I don't think if u get primer wet it goes right through it as long as it is dried off and than painted your ok.But if u let a car sit for a year in primer with nothing but etching primer under the primer it will rust.And about etching primer i don't think its for rust proofing the hole paint job from etching primer to clear coat is your rust proofing.I thought And i might be wrong) etching primer is put on so the other primer will have something to grab to.

 

jay92,85,79 There is a lot of wisdom in that last sentence. You hit the nail on the head.

 

ahhhh just my 2 cents

 

ROFLMAO

 

y is that mrdude? is it illegal, or wait wait I know maybe its because primers and etching primers absorb water lol.

do u even know what a guidecoat is? it gets sanded off anyways and it's not like water will wash it all off lol.

 

Light spots, Dark spots/ High Spots, Low Spots HMMMM

Ok here is a website that will shed some fact on This.

http://www.autobodystore.com

and in their rattle can section it states that Paint shop mixed aerosol's are ok to use but it will need more coats than if sprayed by a Gun cause aerosol thickness is like .05 Mil per coat where Sprayed by a Gun would be more like 1.5mil or more.

Here is their Rattle Can section. http://www.autobodystore.com/ms5.htm

 

Okay here is an update -

I am going with Dupont primer, sealer, paint, etc...

Using Variprime 615S Etching primer - the best you can get at $60/qt. I will need at least 2 of these.

The paint shop told me that using a substandard primer (rattle can or $20/qt primer) will defeat the purpose of expensive paint

So I am now putting on this expensive stuff and most likely the expensive paint. I think it will run about $600 with total materials. Not too bad

BTW - I stripped the rattle can etching primer off yesterday to put the good stuff on and noticed SMALL SPOTS OF SURFACE RUST underneath it!

 

cool I am glad you researched it and found the way to go. You won't regret using the Expensive Primer. even if the paint peels You have good primer amd sealer to protect the Body.

 

A paint job is only as good as its cheapest part. The cheapest part would be the paintcan primer. Id get some 2k kwik prime and use that instead. Its alot better and itll be worth it in the long run.

 

Everyone is skurd of the rattle can... not me heres the back of my car i did in primer black. i did almost the whoel car with the same stuff, been like this for about 2 weeks, it has rained 2 or more times on it, with no problem. But i didnt go down far, i just scratched up my original paint with sand paper and a scotch brite...
The paint i used is: Dupli-Color Sandable Primer
More pics if youd like to see them... (at the bottom)
http://camaroz28.cardomain.com/id/92oramacrs

 

**** rattle cans, it will rust if you get any mousture on it, the paint iwll be like ****, use a sealing primer, urathane primer of possible, its expensive but thats what i used on my iroc, its beena while now, and no rust anywhere

 

sounds to me like a lot of people are scared of priming with a rattle can. i've used the walmart crap already. had a trunk and roof of a neon sanded down to bare metal and used the walmart "crap" primer. the owner had the car for 6 years and maybe waxed it twice. it was not pretty, thats for sure. its seen the elements for 2 months now. not a problem. i did use like 5 cans though. you just need to do a little extra sanding to make sure its just right. not to mention patience. a few people i know used cheapo primer and i was amazed with the results. if i had a spray gun and compressor i'd use those instead, but for those of us who don't, this is the alternative.

 

1. etching primer is used to make the primer stick better.
[anything else written on the can is just fluff.]

2. Getting primer wet is OK.

3. A guide coat is laid down in an off color and is then wet sanded off to reveal any hi or low spots.

4. Mr dude is an idiot on my ignore list.
[join the club]

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I love the primer black look in the car a few post above. The primer gray on mine is starting to grow on me.

What is it about a muscle car in primer that makes it look so good?

I think cause we all know the guy cares more about under the hood then $20,000 paint job on a stock motor.

I have a $35 gallon of raflex super gloss jet black enamel for my car. It will look better than factory and last longer. $35 a gallon paint goes well with my 2.8

If it was a Vette I might get $50 a pint paint.