do not attempt!
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From: LaGrange (10min from Poughkeepsie), NY
Car: 1992 Camaro RS - not real slow anymore...
Engine: SPDC 360 MAF EFI /w a Holley Stealth Ram
Transmission: T5 untill it blows up from to much torque
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" /w auburn pro & 3.89's
do not attempt!
Im so pissed right now! As some of you may remember, I had a post a while ago about my warped door panels. It was from when i shaved the handles. Well, anyhow, I bought a air shear today and decided to have some fun. So, i cut out a rectangle around the warped area and decided to redo the welding, ect. Well, everything was going great, especially the welds. It was all done except for grinding the welds done and I had not one warp. So, being all happy, I startet grinding down the welds(not letting the grinder sit for too long) and I finished. Then, I look at my masterpiece and started flipping out!!! ****
MY ****ING DOOR PANELS WERE WARPED AGAIN! So, lesson learned, take it to a professional and pay the ****ing money.
MY ****ING DOOR PANELS WERE WARPED AGAIN! So, lesson learned, take it to a professional and pay the ****ing money. Last edited by Dirtbik3r; Jul 13, 2004 at 07:23 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
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From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
you cuold keep it watered down next time. Every 3-4 spot welds dump water on the door, grind for a sec, dump water on the door. Course if it was super hot water could warp it too but if done right you could make sure it was cold. Or even just keep a fan near by and close.
i think your doors are warping because of heat. moving the grinder won't make much of a difference since your still pouring heat into flat sheet of metal. try grinding breifly and wiping it down with a damp rag, you can also duct tape rolled up damp rags around the perimeter of the grinding area to keep the total temp down
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From: glenwood IL
Car: 85z28,
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
duct tape rolled up damp rags around the perimeter of the grinding area to keep the total temp down
Or they make a paste that eats heat. I forgot what its called but it is out there.
Or they make a paste that eats heat. I forgot what its called but it is out there.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 44
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From: South Jersey
Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: A4...soon M5
Correct me if I'm wrong, but pouring room temp water on couple hundred degree metal warps and weakens the metal...thats why high quality welders don't use water to cool their welds. Just a thought.
Matt
Matt
a weld puddle is about 2000 degrees, quenching it wil cause the metal to harden and become brittle. Wiping water on a 2-300 degree sheet of metal isn't harmful. the metal warps because since it is thin it's temp will rise quickly in comparison to say 1/2" plate. the heat causes expansion (localized, not evenly) the metal has no where to go so its distorted and effectively bends/buckles because it is thin an it isn't very stiff.
another idea, use a spray bottle to keep the inside of the door wet and you shouldn't have a problem, and remember that dampness and welding don't mix. So make sure everything is dry before welding
another idea, use a spray bottle to keep the inside of the door wet and you shouldn't have a problem, and remember that dampness and welding don't mix. So make sure everything is dry before welding
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
tack it in a few places far apart (ie. either end of the patch panel) and let it completely cool off, then do a few more, then let it cool again... and keep doing that.
I learned that watching American Hot Rod, and its true... it really does work. I've tried it.
I learned that watching American Hot Rod, and its true... it really does work. I've tried it.
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From: Newberry, Mi
Car: transam, el camino
Engine: 415
Transmission: T56
As long as you prepare the surface correctly for the bondo and not put more than 1/8" layer of filler on the car it will be good for a long time.
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