Hey guys, when I bought my 1990 IROC the hatch pull down motor did not work, and the hatch was unlocked and would bounce around a little when driving.

So, I went to the junkyard to get a hatch pulldown motor and installed it, and its still the same, it doesn't work. I checked all the fuses. I can't figure it out. Could it be the power supply to the pulldown motor? Could it be the junkyard motor was bad? It did come with a 30 day warranty.

The one from the junkyard did not include the mechanism that connects to the rear key hole, so I had to re-use mine, maybe this could be the problem?

Another part I had to re-use was this one part that connected to the pulldown motor with a single screw, and it has 3 wires going into it, I had to reuse it because the wires were soldered in, and I did not want to cut and solder onto the new part. I will post pics of this part later.

Can anyone please help, I need this thing working soon, and I don't want to go passed the 30 day warranty. Thanks, Suke

 

The first thing I would do is take the motor back out.Hook up 2 wire on the battery a neg and pos and test the motor to see if it works. If it don't work than its the motor take it back.If it does work than it could be a few things Realy,wires, etc etc. When mine went out i just adjust the hole thing down and did away with the pull down. They brake to much to even mess with it.

 

I had the same symptoms as you, and it turned out to be the switch that tells the motor when it is up or down. I bought a new one from TDS, and it works great.

 

The cable release to the lock cylinder was not the cause of it not working. Check that you have +12v at the red with white stripe wire. Also check that the ground wire is attached to the body location just below the hatch pull-down unit.

Lon Salgren
Top-Down Solutions

 

I had a similar problem on my 87 Bird. After you test the motor with the battery to make sure it actually works, try what I did: open the hatch, connect jumper wires between contacts on that plastic thing beside the latch, and then stick a screwdriver in the latch as if it were just the trunk lid. Then pop the trunk form inside or with the key and gently try to force the motor to work by moving the screwdriver. Worked for me. After I did that the motor jerked and finally started to move. It was like it just jammed or something...

Anyway, I hope that helps..

 

That evil little switch tells the motor to pull down when you close it. If that's broke, the motor wont know to pull it down, becuase it'll think that it still is down. TDS sells them, along with junkyards, and dealers. I opted for the yard, because i couldnt see spending that for a lil switch

 

It was the reverse switch on mine, I drilled out the rivits, cleaned it with sandpaper and carb cleaner, and put it together with screws.

Someone went through my junkyard and broke every hatch motor for the hell of it!!

 

The 1986-87 & 1988-91 striker-sensing switches have been discontinued by GM for nearly a year. I doubt you'd find any at your dealer.

Doesn't that **** you off? I get so frustrated. I often find them torn apart so someone could steal the gear nut (a roughly $6 item from the dealer).

Lon

 

I have a striker switch that works and a relay if anybody knows thats what they need!

 

Thank you for the suggestions guys, I hooked up wires and found out the motors are fine, both of em. But since the original seems like it has cracks in the plastic housing, I think I will still keep the new one, but now I have to get a reverse switch I guess?

Is this item not a part of the entire hatch motor assembly? What I got from the junkyard was an entire assembly with mounting brakets and motor, minus the lock cylinder seloniod thing. So, this should include a reverse switch, what are the chances this switch was also damaged!?

Oh well, I guess I might order one of these then.