well some spots are rusted thorw,
i got her streped down to nothing, i have a few things i can do here,
1) go to a fun yard, have them cut out some decent floor boards
2) wire brush/wheel what i can and fiberglass the rest "some of the boards are vary thin though"
3) cut out the bad sh-it and patch it up with sheet metal,
4) After market?

Anyone want to help me decide?

 

 

ouch tony

 

dont fiberglass- its only temporary, the floor is your "frame" so i would fix it right, cut out the bad- weld in some good, por 15, prime it up and seal it

 

i was thinking of wire brushing it and por-15'n it all, but its in worser shape then i thot! some of the floor is pretty thin.... im going to have to deside soon tho....

 

5) Get another car.

 

POR-15 is good... but not good enough for what you need. I say definatley go with new metal. Then use metel ready and then the actual POR-15 paint.

 

Thats nothing any thirdgen in canada has that 5 years after factory.My drivers side pan has a hole the size of a hayes manaul.I will be fixing that very soon.

 

you should stop using so much nitrous when you street race. you should know by now it can mess up your floorboards. also watch out it can blow the welds on the intake if your not careful.

 

D and R sells some aftermarket floor boards for our cars. i personally would cut out the holes in the floorpans or thin spots and weld in some new sheet metal.

 

That doesn't look very good. Do you drive your car much in the winter?

 

He just got this IROC not too long ago

 

Indeed

 

If you really wanna keep the car spend the extra money and have the aftermarket floor pans welded in

 

New floor pans are the only way to go. No other option restores the strength of the floor pan as a part of the frame.

 

I should also add, im going to also make SFC,

 

You need to sand blast or start wire brushing then cut out the rust and weld new in. You should have looked underneath before you bought it you can tell thats through. Sandblasting works best though it gets alot the wire brush cant.

 

i just took out my interior to do the floorboard repair, the underside of my floorboards there is almost no paint left, looks much worse then yours
not a single hole, or even a spot coming close to being a hole on the inside, almost no rust inside, cept from recent leaks in the rear..
still sturdy, im going to wire brush and por-15 the underside.. no sense in doing anything more, unless i really cared what the underside looked like.. and por15 works great when used directly on rust anyways, used it on my plymouth fury.. the trunk looked as bad as your floorpans but when i was finished with the wire brush there was nothing more then some pin holes here and there...

id patch it

 

The question is... what are your intentions with this car. If you are going to make it a street bruiser, then new pans are what you need. If you plan on racing this car in close to STOCK form, the I would seriously consider another car. I know that sounds like an incredible task after going through all the hassle of coming up for the funding of the car you just purchased, but would you rather have 8-10 grand in the thing when you find out your frame is twisting and it will not hold an alignment spec. I have been ther and done that. It is not fun. Seems like every couple months i see a clean thirdgen for a couple thousand bucks and I just shake my head.

 

you aint got nothing on me......my car was used by the flintstones lol. but seriously i can fit through the hole where my feet are supposed to be, and there are holes in my subframes.....i'm going to patch them all and call it a day

 

MMMMM salt! Thats what happens when you drive a vehicle in the winter. I hear ya man. I'm over in Wisconsin, same **** here. When I looked for my car, I searched for something that had been stored in the winter. Took me a year to find it, but it came around. And she is in the garage now too ... till the snow clears!

 

well, i decided today im going to cut em out and weld in sheets of steel, the drive shaft tunnel is fine everything else is good the bad parts are pretty much the with of the doors on the underside, since all be adding subframes and adding just sheet steel, do you guys think all be fine since i would have them groves in the full boards you do know what thos are for dont you... but i think all be just fine with the subframes?

 

thats what my friend and i did on his RS, just welded in pieces of sheet metal, sealed it all up good, and for a street car, theres no reason it shoulden't hold up.

 

Why not just buy the floor boards it would be much stronger and correct.

 

Welding in sheets of steel is fine if done correctly. If you are going to work near the rocker part of your floor pan ther are some precautions you should take. I would ensure that you have the car supported as well as possible so it is not in a bind when you remove and weld in the new floor. You also need to make sure you clean the goop off of the rocker they used to seal the floor to the rocker. I tell you more later if your interested i have to go back to work.

 

the rust we repaired was on the drivers side near the rocker pannel it was almost a straight line fron the back seat to the footrest that needed replaced, it sucked doing all the cutting and grinding, but in the end it worked out prety nice, still some areas i want to touch up later on, but for a daily driver, its fine. and it was a whole lot cheeper then buying aftermarket floor pans.

 

cut it out and weld metal in , then fiberglass over it and then paint the biatch and be done with it . mustang.

 

if you think that is bad my boy almost bought a z28 the other day, good thing he didnt because when he decided he wasnt i noticed that there was a huge hole in the floorboard! , like if someone shot the thing with a shottie lol

 

So how'd this turn out? I need some inspiration (my '90 just failed it's safety due to rotted floors).