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Hatch motor problem

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Old May 19, 2005 | 12:03 PM
  #1  
87CIZ's Avatar
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Hatch motor problem

Alright my hatch motor went down and stayed the motor kept spinning so i unplugged it well yesterday i recieved my replacement gear nut to put on it from TDS. I put it in went up and down 3 times put the motor back in the car. And bam does the same damn thing. Motor still spins and no movement. It helps when i push on it or smack it though.
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Old May 19, 2005 | 12:46 PM
  #2  
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From: Sacramento, California
Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
sounds like the switch it hits that tells it to stop has finally worn down, not letting it push the little lever all the way down, so it still thinks it's up a little

try leaning on it while it's down, and seeing if it shuts off if you push it down a certain amount

if so

thats your problem

i'd rip that thing out and try to build some material back onto that lever somehow, or possibly just bend it up a little bit
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Old May 19, 2005 | 02:09 PM
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
it does it with no load on it also just pushing the button to activate it
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Old May 20, 2005 | 08:34 PM
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From: Beaufort, S.C.
Car: 87 GN & 87 T
Engine: 3.8 V6
Transmission: 200r4
Is the alignment adjusted correctly for the entire unit? Height and side to side?
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Old May 20, 2005 | 09:50 PM
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
back to where it was originally but i'm gonna make sure, its giving me a headache
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Old May 20, 2005 | 11:28 PM
  #6  
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Are the plastic tracks any good I was just going to buy the complete kit from TDS including the new motor.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 12:47 AM
  #7  
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From: Savanna, Ok
Car: on the hunt for a 3rd gen again
the guys at BB broke mine off while installing my system they kept slammin it down i guess and didn't know it was an automatic pull down trunk. i just went to a junk yard and got a manual lock and had it welded on for $10
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Old May 21, 2005 | 12:56 AM
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Do you have to slam the manual ones hard to get them to shut?
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Old May 21, 2005 | 02:48 AM
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
the tracks are in awesome shape, i bought the gear from TDS cause they said it would fix it if the motor kept running and it wouldnt come up. Now it's a different problem apparently, im about to go get one out of a scrapyard and be done with it.
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Old May 21, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Take off the hatch surround trim and try cycling it by pressing the striker-sensing switch. Look at the unit. The problem showed up after installation in the car, right? Sorry, gotta run. I'll be back to check your results.

Lon
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Old May 22, 2005 | 01:18 AM
  #11  
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From: Savanna, Ok
Car: on the hunt for a 3rd gen again
no u dont have to shut them hard at all, just shut it like any other trunk i guess....
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Old May 22, 2005 | 01:20 AM
  #12  
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From: Cincinnati
My new weather stripping is what Killed my hatch motor quick.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 01:56 AM
  #13  
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why the heck did they put a hatch motor on these cars? are ppl that lazy? are ppl that weak? come on...its not a minivan
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Old May 22, 2005 | 02:08 AM
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Originally posted by DanTheMan_smlk
why the heck did they put a hatch motor on these cars? are ppl that lazy? are ppl that weak? come on...its not a minivan
From pgs 70-71 of CAMARO The Third Generation by Michael Lamm, copywright 1987. "A subtle 1986 standard add-on was the power hatch closing mechanism. It's main purpose was to pull the glass down snug without anyone having to slam it. Additionally, it automatically released the hatch slightly when you opened either side door, and it retightened the hatch after you shut the doors again. The purpose was to let trapped air escape fom the car so you didn't have to slam the side doors."

Lon
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Old May 22, 2005 | 02:15 AM
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Dont think that last part ever worked on mine since i had it.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 10:17 PM
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Originally posted by lonsal
From pgs 70-71 of CAMARO The Third Generation by Michael Lamm, copywright 1987. "A subtle 1986 standard add-on was the power hatch closing mechanism. It's main purpose was to pull the glass down snug without anyone having to slam it. Additionally, it automatically released the hatch slightly when you opened either side door, and it retightened the hatch after you shut the doors again. The purpose was to let trapped air escape fom the car so you didn't have to slam the side doors."

Lon
thats the DUMBEST reason for a hatch motor ever...

what do u think?
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Old May 22, 2005 | 10:18 PM
  #17  
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Its a good idea but I wouldnt of done it like you said its a sports car.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 10:23 PM
  #18  
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will the hatch open and close if the motor is disconnected?
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Old May 22, 2005 | 10:26 PM
  #19  
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It wont seal at least i couldnt get mine to close all the way. I got it at the top right now and it closes and opens but doesnt shut all the way. I just have it this way for now cause the hatch is comin off soon and i dont have a battery in.
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Old May 22, 2005 | 10:40 PM
  #20  
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damn, thats a burden...so u have to get this "luxury" item fixed if it breaks
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Old May 22, 2005 | 11:23 PM
  #21  
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
yeah i used the latch striker switch and let the thing go down i had to help it by pushing down on it but as soon as it clicked to go back up i unpluged it. It seals just like it used to but it's a pain to close. Mainly because i have louvers and they rattle from having to slam it. I took it back out and it does it with no load on it. It may have already stripped my new gear.....
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Old May 23, 2005 | 12:10 PM
  #22  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Originally posted by 87CIZ
yeah i used the latch striker switch and let the thing go down i had to help it by pushing down on it but as soon as it clicked to go back up i unpluged it. It seals just like it used to but it's a pain to close. Mainly because i have louvers and they rattle from having to slam it. I took it back out and it does it with no load on it. It may have already stripped my new gear.....
I hope that is only a temporary solution until you can diagnose and repair it. The hatch motor housing is plastic and won't hold up to repeated slamming of the hatch. I'd suggest downloading the instructions from my web site and diagnose the problem.

Lon
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Old May 23, 2005 | 12:42 PM
  #23  
87CIZ's Avatar
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
yes it's only temporary until i can figure out what the problem is. I don't take shortcuts on my car, if i had the $300 i'd buy a new one from you but that's a little steep for my pockets.
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Old May 23, 2005 | 01:42 PM
  #24  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
$300 = $225 + $75 refundable core charge. No need to go that drastic unless you feel you're all thumbs. I'm sure you can figure out what is wrong with yours and repair it for much less.

Lon
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Old May 23, 2005 | 04:05 PM
  #25  
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From: Ohio
Car: 88' Iroc-Z
Engine: LQ9
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.42
yeah i can figure it out i just dont want to have any problems with it for a long while im gonna take it all apart tonight clean everything up and make sure everything is lubed good. Put it back together and hope and pray for the best
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