What product do I use to bond a body Kit panle on to the rear quarters?? and then what do I use to mold it in. I am a total newbie when it comes to body stuff. Please help THX

 

what are you trying to fix? why would you want to use fiber glass on metal? why not just make a patch panel and weld it in

 

I'm guessing he's got one of those ultra-stylish () thirdgen body kits and he's trying to figure out how to install it.

 

You might think it is for somehting stupid, but it isn't. This info is not for a body kit, however stylish you might think they are Jim.

It is for a wide body rear quarter that I wanna add. I am running a moser 12 bolt and 11" wide ZR1's in the rear with spacers. The tires are 335's so yeah they stick out a couple centimeters. I really don't mind, but it would be nice to have them totally under the car.

Anyways, I am still hoping to find some usefull info here. I am sure when I order the panles, they will come with instructions, but I just wanted to know what you guys felt would be the best epoxy or what not.

Thanks in advance for any help that is given.

 

wouldn't it look nicer if you just used a slightly smaller spacer and wacked the inner fender some? or maybe even mini-tubbed it? mini-tubbing is really not all that hard either.

make a cut at the top of the tub.
beat the inner fender to where it is totally straight up and down instead of curved. fill in the gap with some 16 ga. steel. por15 to make sure it doesn't rust on you. this is obviously an oversimplified version, but i know people who have done this this way and it still fits under the factory plasti pieces and everything. it would probably be WAY cheaper too!

 

You would be suprised. The wide body panles that get molded to the rear are only 275$. Really not that much money at all.

If you know of a place that sells any kind of mini tub for our cars I would buy it the instant. If you check out my site you can see all the work I have dobe to get those 11" rims to fit under there allready.


I don't see how you could mini tub without changing the rear spring set up too. I am allready right up against them. check out my pics.

 

You could do it this way.

I asume the wide body panels are made from fiber glass.

Parts youll need.
fiber glass resin. and hardner
bondo
body filler "use a high quility one not the cheap stuff"
chop matt or fiber glass matt
orbital sander
assortments of sandpapper.


sand down the area pretty good with some rough grit sand paper down to the metal say some 600 grit with a grinder "the whole are that the panel will be touching and a little bit around it" now attach your panel where you want it fasten it with screws or rivits.
Now take some fiber glass resin soak the whole area where the fiber glass matt will be applied,and lay your matt down tear it up in small peices for best results less than 2 inch by 2 inch peices. now build up the area the way you need till the metal panel and fiberglass peice meld into one peice. let it dry
you will probably have to build up three or four layers of matt and resin.
after it has set over night go and sand it down to the shape you prefer. then start with the bondo.

take the bondo and smooth it all over the area let it dry and sand it aswell down till you get a nice smooth shape somthing you could possible paint.

Now take the body filler smear it out evenly across the whole area. let it dry and methodically sand it all to a mirror smooth surface. let it dry a day or two and paint.

Good luck!

 

Wow, Thanks AudioDEO. That is exactly what I was looking for in terms of advise. I am definetly saving this post, until I am done with the install. Well I guess I better get started and order those panels. Again, I can't say how good it is to see someone ACCTUALLY giving great help, not like some of the other guys that like to toss in their .02c for no reason.


I will post pics eventually. I am a first timer, and I am buying my first motor (383 500HP) so it is gonna take a bit till I can put the panles on.

Thanks again.

 

I use this stuff, and I would suggest it for what you are wanting to do.

It isnt too expensive, but the downside is that the applicator gun to use it, is.

http://www.autobodydepot.net/scripts...gm=3m600-9.bbx

Heres the applicator, maybe you could do something about pushing the stuff out manually but I've never tried.

http://www.autobodydepot.net/scripts...sid=0712054723

 

Damn that is an expensive gun! Thanks for the advise though. I will keep the bonding stuff in mind. Thanks for all the help.

Think I should screw the panels on initially, or rivet?

 

I would just panel bond them. Maybe screw them into place to hold the panel on while the panel bond cures.

 

Oh ok. I thought i would have to put like little screws in every few inches or something. Would that make it a stonger and more secure bond,(with screws, and the normal bond)? I just dob't want the paint to go bad due to the fiberglass changing shape more than the metal, once the car has to sitin the garadge over the winter.

 

Screws arent going to hold it there any better than just the panel bond after its cured, well from movement anyway, and if you get in a wreck, it would be ruined either way, so I would use some non tapered self tapping screws, not too many, and dont put panel bond where it will seep over and onto them when the piece is tightened down or they'll be stuck, getting them back out is going to make it easier to blend the whole thing in since u wont have screw heads to go over.

 

right, good point. Thanks for the help. Looks like I should have a pretty good idea as to what I am doing when I start now. . Now if I could just get that 383 bought haha.

 

just any kind of rivits or screws to hold it in place. youll want to remove them after the fiber glass dries and fill the holes.

Good luck!

 

If this is a whole quarter "skin", you don't have to go to extremes to bond it on. I once rescued a wide body kit from a salvage yard, and it was held on with rivets around the wheel opening and door jamb, with silicone sealer (caulk, basically) holding it to the steel. The top of the quarter required some blending with fibeglass and filler, but thats it. No need to glue it with anything stronger than that, it will stay put if you install it as I described plus it could still be removed later if needed.

 

Exelent, thanks for the insight. When I get to doing this step, I will make sure to follow that direction. THX


It's not an entire quarter, but I see what you mean..

This is the kit.

http://www.dankoreproductions.com/de...id=DAN600IN-WB