spoiler crack repair
Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 273
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From: Maine
Car: 1989 Formula 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-R4
Ive seen the rubber spoilers be rapaired and painted and less than a month later they warped and the paint cracked off on a large area. I dont know how bad the damage is on yours but i couldnt reuse mine. If you want a spolier to last your best bet would be to get a fiberglass one
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 445
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Car: 1991 pontiac firebird
Engine: 305 V8 flo-pro exhaust
Transmission: automatic 700r4 4speed
Axle/Gears: stock 2.73's :(
i had a rubber wrap around wit the rips and i fixed it up with bondo looked perfect till i put it on the hatch damn thing was warped wat a waste of money go fiberglass
ok, So bondo doesn't work, no surprise there, it's not meant for rubber now is it? There has to be a sandable flexible filler/epoxy meant for rubber(flexible) application for those of us that don't have $400 for a damn spoiler.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally posted by PAformula
ok, So bondo doesn't work, no surprise there, it's not meant for rubber now is it? There has to be a sandable flexible filler/epoxy meant for rubber(flexible) application for those of us that don't have $400 for a damn spoiler.
ok, So bondo doesn't work, no surprise there, it's not meant for rubber now is it? There has to be a sandable flexible filler/epoxy meant for rubber(flexible) application for those of us that don't have $400 for a damn spoiler.
It's not worth it to invest a bunch of time in fixing the stocker and then spend the money to paint it because even if it doesn't crack again it will still continue to rot from the inside out.
Also, rubber dry rots. The problem will only get worse with time. Sure you could come up with a temporary fix, but it's just that - temporary. Fiberglass is the best alternative aside from shaving the spoiler completely. I didn't like the price tag of the glass spoiler either but when I realized that I could do it once the 'right' way or do it the fast/cheap way and then have to do it again in a few months/years I chose to go fiberglass.
This coming from a college kid
I know about not having a lot of spending money. Member

Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 224
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From: IOWA
Car: 86 TRANSAM
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
I don't know if it is sandable, but when mine cracked open, I just wanted to plug the openings to keep the water out. I tried a couple of things, one must have expanded too much in the summer sun and broke the opening further. I then tried Permatesx black silicone adheasive sealant # 16B. It does not force the crack open further. I only have mine sealed for now. My next step was to be to use a razor blade and shave it smooth. It's not a repair, but it seals it up and it looks better.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,232
Likes: 0
From: Readington, NJ
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt w/ 3.73
Originally posted by crazymonkey88
its cracking due to rust, happend to mine.....please go out and buy a fiberglass one, best bet.
its cracking due to rust, happend to mine.....please go out and buy a fiberglass one, best bet.
Either way, the end result is a dead spoiler so it’s not like it really matters
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 753
Likes: 0
From: Eastern Connecticut
Car: 1989 RS Camaro
Engine: 350 Carb(soon a 400)
Transmission: 5-Speed/th350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
I know that napa sells this 2 part epoxy that is for a urathane bumper. I used that on my front. the stuff just bends. I had it on a bondo scraper and I could not get it off. you could bend the scraper all over the place. you actually have to sand the stuff down. it stinks, it spells like someone is getting a perm but it works great. its like 22 bux or so.
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