My custom Aluminum dash in progress!
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
My custom Aluminum dash in progress!
Here is a pics of my Custom Dash, not finished yet,
i have done a complete re-wiring of the car since i add an Injection on it here the first look ;
i have done a complete re-wiring of the car since i add an Injection on it here the first look ;
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by iansane
Is that your fuel line?
Is that your fuel line?
& this is the more secure place on the car to put it, All connected on Aeromotive Steel Brainded & AN connector..
Hey, Its Airplane approved hose

I also use hydrolic steel Pass thru to go over the firewall for more security.
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
didn't think most racing leagues would allow fuel lines to pass through the car ? might be wrong though, nice dash...and im very familiar w/ the aero products, musta cost ya a ton
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From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
i didn't know that fuel could enter the drivers compartment at all.
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1984 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 4.10 gears
that looks pretty cool. It's very unique and must've taken a lot of time to do. How many hours do you figure you have into designing and fabricating it so far?
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by JeremyNYR
that looks pretty cool. It's very unique and must've taken a lot of time to do. How many hours do you figure you have into designing and fabricating it so far?
that looks pretty cool. It's very unique and must've taken a lot of time to do. How many hours do you figure you have into designing and fabricating it so far?
i have got some carboard then do some template , cut in alum., a bit of solder.. But its not finished yet.. But the more hard work are done now
I think its a couple of days works, i work on it since some time on my lost time..About those that seem to cry about the fuel line, i can tell this ,
1 - Ever see a car whit a fabed gas tank in car ?
2 - Ever tryed to break a Stainless braind hose ? Good luck..
3 - Where did you think the hose are safe ? Near the driveshaft that can break then trow away all fuel line ? The line are in the safest place of the car, its impossible to break it or have any leak at all...
4 - THe AN fitting are around 10 to 20$ each, the Brainded hose are 100$/ 10 feets, all this is costly, but its Very secure !
5 - Ever see a Plane whit the Fuel hose out of the cockpit

Is this look nice too, other side of the firewall
Ever heard the old sayin -
"Kiss the dash in case you havbe to eat it"
Looks real nice but looks lil hazardous
If youd have seen my buddy after he ate a steering wheel, youd look for some padding
"Kiss the dash in case you havbe to eat it"
Looks real nice but looks lil hazardous
If youd have seen my buddy after he ate a steering wheel, youd look for some padding
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by Pocket
Ever heard the old sayin -
"Kiss the dash in case you havbe to eat it"
Looks real nice but looks lil hazardous
If youd have seen my buddy after he ate a steering wheel, youd look for some padding
Ever heard the old sayin -
"Kiss the dash in case you havbe to eat it"
Looks real nice but looks lil hazardous
If youd have seen my buddy after he ate a steering wheel, youd look for some padding
btw will have two 6 point Simpsons Platinum Camlock 3'' Restrain :-) Should not be able to hit the sterring, Another 500$ buck spend
Security are always very important, i have padding on all roll bar too, going to install 2 more point on the roll cage (Front bar), just behind the dash. I have as well an Extinguiser (expect to never have to use it )
I left nothing half done !
Everyting should be Perfect !
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From: Bowdon, GA.
Car: 1988 Camaro
Engine: 355, 10.34:1, 249/252 @.050", IK200
Transmission: TH-400, 3500 stall 9.5" converter
Axle/Gears: Ford 9", detroit locker, 3.89 gears
x007.. Looks great, but hope you don't ever want to race it.
I'm not trying to bash on you but that fuel line in cockpit aint gonna cut it with any tech guys in this world.
NHRA rules I know not 100% sure about IHRA..
Says "fuel systems.. Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside of the driver's compartment and within the confines of the frame and/or steel body. Cool cans, and fuel distribution blocks must be located at least 6" foward of firewall. Fuel pressure gauge isolators with steel braided line may be mounted on firewall.
Tanks: All fuel tanks must be isolated from driver's compartment by a firewall of .024" steel or .032" alum.. completely sealed to prevent any fuel from entering the drivers compartment. All fuel tanks must have a pressure cap and be vented outside of body. When used, fuel cells muct have a metal box protecting the part of the fuel cell that is outside of body lines or trunk floor.
Lines: All non OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data recorder lines) muct be metallic, steel braided or NHRA accepted "woven or woven-pushlock". A max of 12" total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16" lenght of steel tubing, 1/8" min wall thickness, securlely mounted as a protection against fuel line rupture. Fuel lines may not be routed in the driveshaft tunnel.
With you building a car like that, I would have to say get and study the rule books. Then build the car to match the rules. It would be ashame to spend along time and alot of money building the car and never even get past the tech at the track to make a single pass.
I'm not trying to bash on you but that fuel line in cockpit aint gonna cut it with any tech guys in this world.
NHRA rules I know not 100% sure about IHRA..
Says "fuel systems.. Location: All fuel tanks, lines, pumps, valves, etc. must be outside of the driver's compartment and within the confines of the frame and/or steel body. Cool cans, and fuel distribution blocks must be located at least 6" foward of firewall. Fuel pressure gauge isolators with steel braided line may be mounted on firewall.
Tanks: All fuel tanks must be isolated from driver's compartment by a firewall of .024" steel or .032" alum.. completely sealed to prevent any fuel from entering the drivers compartment. All fuel tanks must have a pressure cap and be vented outside of body. When used, fuel cells muct have a metal box protecting the part of the fuel cell that is outside of body lines or trunk floor.
Lines: All non OEM fuel lines (including gauge and/or data recorder lines) muct be metallic, steel braided or NHRA accepted "woven or woven-pushlock". A max of 12" total (front to rear) of non-metallic or non-steel braided hose is permitted for connection purposes only. Fuel lines (except steel braided lines) in the flywheel/bellhousing area must be enclosed in a 16" lenght of steel tubing, 1/8" min wall thickness, securlely mounted as a protection against fuel line rupture. Fuel lines may not be routed in the driveshaft tunnel.
With you building a car like that, I would have to say get and study the rule books. Then build the car to match the rules. It would be ashame to spend along time and alot of money building the car and never even get past the tech at the track to make a single pass.
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by Night rider327
x007.. Looks great, but hope you don't ever want to race it.
I'm not trying to bash on you but that fuel line in cockpit aint gonna cut it with any tech guys in this world.
NHRA rules I know not 100% sure about IHRA..
x007.. Looks great, but hope you don't ever want to race it.
I'm not trying to bash on you but that fuel line in cockpit aint gonna cut it with any tech guys in this world.
NHRA rules I know not 100% sure about IHRA..
Nice dash....
Nice Dash Kinda what i am hoping to build once i get my TIG welding skills honed. You mounted the fuel nice and all but all you have to do to make anyone happy as FAR as Tech is move it to the passenger side right against the rocker and encase it in some Tubing and paint it red. Hell you have the fab skills bend it up to follow that line against the pinch weld on the passenger side and have it just go through the firewall, WEld it up nice or gromet it. Lot safer. Hey are you gonna make a center consule out of aluminum?
x007
"Outch, not supposed to append
btw will have two 6 point Simpsons Platinum Camlock 3'' Restrain :-) Should not be able to hit the sterring, Another 500$ buck spend
Security are always very important, i have padding on all roll bar too, going to install 2 more point on the roll cage (Front bar), just behind the dash. I have as well an Extinguiser (expect to never have to use it )"
You think them Simpsons will keep you in place. Watch the HANS device DVD if you can. Ill sum up if you can't get a hold of one. At 35 this is 35 miles an hour. The speeds you go down residential streets. A strapped in driver in an All aluminum pre formed seat with shoulder, leg, kidney and heat braces travels 8 inches out of his/her seat when the vehicle hit a wall at 35 MILES PER HOUR!!!!!!!!. Thats just the distance from the back of your shoulders to the seat. Your head travels close to 18-24 inches farther forward. Think about it. Round off some of the edges and maybe make it out of a thinner gauge of aluminum, use smaller All aluminum rivets (they break easier) use less rivets and make sure there is space for the peice to move.
But still awesome job.
x007
"Outch, not supposed to append
btw will have two 6 point Simpsons Platinum Camlock 3'' Restrain :-) Should not be able to hit the sterring, Another 500$ buck spend
Security are always very important, i have padding on all roll bar too, going to install 2 more point on the roll cage (Front bar), just behind the dash. I have as well an Extinguiser (expect to never have to use it )"
You think them Simpsons will keep you in place. Watch the HANS device DVD if you can. Ill sum up if you can't get a hold of one. At 35 this is 35 miles an hour. The speeds you go down residential streets. A strapped in driver in an All aluminum pre formed seat with shoulder, leg, kidney and heat braces travels 8 inches out of his/her seat when the vehicle hit a wall at 35 MILES PER HOUR!!!!!!!!. Thats just the distance from the back of your shoulders to the seat. Your head travels close to 18-24 inches farther forward. Think about it. Round off some of the edges and maybe make it out of a thinner gauge of aluminum, use smaller All aluminum rivets (they break easier) use less rivets and make sure there is space for the peice to move.
But still awesome job.
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Re: Nice dash....
Thanks
I think about a center console, currently i have one in wood but that not fit too mutch nicely now whit my new dash.., will try to build one since next week, hey you no what, i have no tig
For the little weld i have done whit my mig (miller 210) then as the finish is sanded back to give a brushed look you can correct easyly the overweld spot.. Not easy whit 1/16 sheet alum
I would love to have the money to buy a good tig, but i put all in my car damn.. 
I was also thinking to polish all the dash (like the center plate), but its a good job and i need to finish the mec. & prepare the body for the paint very soon.. Still waiting for part.. Then i work on it on my spare time so...
About my hose, i have a dual exhaust 2-1/2 and a sub frame connector that take a lot of space, then after lot of thinking i have found this place the more secure all around to install the hose.., I will look again this week if i can find another secure place to put those hose.. But i'm trust those hose no matter if they are there
I think about a center console, currently i have one in wood but that not fit too mutch nicely now whit my new dash.., will try to build one since next week, hey you no what, i have no tig

For the little weld i have done whit my mig (miller 210) then as the finish is sanded back to give a brushed look you can correct easyly the overweld spot.. Not easy whit 1/16 sheet alum
I would love to have the money to buy a good tig, but i put all in my car damn.. 
I was also thinking to polish all the dash (like the center plate), but its a good job and i need to finish the mec. & prepare the body for the paint very soon.. Still waiting for part.. Then i work on it on my spare time so...
About my hose, i have a dual exhaust 2-1/2 and a sub frame connector that take a lot of space, then after lot of thinking i have found this place the more secure all around to install the hose.., I will look again this week if i can find another secure place to put those hose.. But i'm trust those hose no matter if they are there

Originally posted by smokeycamaro51
Nice Dash Kinda what i am hoping to build once i get my TIG welding skills honed. You mounted the fuel nice and all but all you have to do to make anyone happy as FAR as Tech is move it to the passenger side right against the rocker and encase it in some Tubing and paint it red. Hell you have the fab skills bend it up to follow that line against the pinch weld on the passenger side and have it just go through the firewall, WEld it up nice or gromet it. Lot safer. Hey are you gonna make a center consule out of aluminum?
But still awesome job.
Nice Dash Kinda what i am hoping to build once i get my TIG welding skills honed. You mounted the fuel nice and all but all you have to do to make anyone happy as FAR as Tech is move it to the passenger side right against the rocker and encase it in some Tubing and paint it red. Hell you have the fab skills bend it up to follow that line against the pinch weld on the passenger side and have it just go through the firewall, WEld it up nice or gromet it. Lot safer. Hey are you gonna make a center consule out of aluminum?
But still awesome job.
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
on the subject of the fuel hoses, i worked in an aviation shop for 3 years, maintaining my universities fleet of airplanes. We've had and replaced hundreds and hundreds of braided hoses, have piles of used, old A/N Fittings, and have even replaced the stainless hoses on engines and hydraulic brake units. Reasons? leaks....AN fittings, even at 20 dollars a pop, can leak, and eventually, will leak. The hoses will eventually wear out, and require replacement, hopefully you'd find this before there's a large puddle in your drivers compartment, and the SS lines will eventually wear and you'll find a pin-hole ***** that might not even be visible w/ the naked eye...not until it's shooting fluid out of it for three feet in a solid stream.
Aviation supplies tend to cost a lot of money because of the approval process for them, but unlike automobiles, airplanes can go through some very rigerous inspection processes, in a minimum of 100 hrs of use for rented airplanes, and annually for privately owned aircraft. These inspections are total open up and inspect every nook and cranny, end result, we find and fix problems before there are problems. In the auto world, we fix problems because they're are problems.
just food for thought when comparing the two industries.
Aviation supplies tend to cost a lot of money because of the approval process for them, but unlike automobiles, airplanes can go through some very rigerous inspection processes, in a minimum of 100 hrs of use for rented airplanes, and annually for privately owned aircraft. These inspections are total open up and inspect every nook and cranny, end result, we find and fix problems before there are problems. In the auto world, we fix problems because they're are problems.
just food for thought when comparing the two industries.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by 1989karr
i like those digital gauges! What brand are they???
i like those digital gauges! What brand are they???
But i can't recommend it since the no support i got from
her... These gauge a 60$us each. 2 1/4
I have a problem whit the Volts meter tha keep dying (3 times),
then never got a reply from her or refund/replacement.. So will never buy this brand anymore..
Summit have some simillar gauge btw..
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
the FIRST thing i noticed when i looked in there was teh same thing you guys already mentioned..
you will NEED to move that fuel line outside the car before it sees ANY racetrack.
other then that, not bad for a race car... how much does it weigh compared to the plastic dash you took out?
you will NEED to move that fuel line outside the car before it sees ANY racetrack.
other then that, not bad for a race car... how much does it weigh compared to the plastic dash you took out?
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by MrDude_1
other then that, not bad for a race car... how much does it weigh compared to the plastic dash you took out?
other then that, not bad for a race car... how much does it weigh compared to the plastic dash you took out?

the plastic dash is pretty heavy for plastic, i dont have
the exact weight but the alum are less than 1/4 the weight of the
standard dash for sure.. I have used 1/16 alum sheet its very light weight..
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
Originally posted by Ratchet
Looks pretty Good I like it.
Add one of these and a little engine turning on the dash and yur good to go.
Ric
JK
Looks pretty Good I like it.
Add one of these and a little engine turning on the dash and yur good to go.
Ric
JK Thread Starter
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Here is an aluminum Console !
Here is the console i have buikld this week end,
pretty nice look , i like it very mutch !
I'm looking for another way to pass the hose too..
pretty nice look , i like it very mutch !
I'm looking for another way to pass the hose too..
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
liking the console dash combo, looks like a factory five car to me , lol
Gotta.....
Dude looks great. Weld up all your edges take your time and use lots of air to keep it cool. grind em, sand em and buff the hell out of em. Make it look like all one peice of liquid smooth polish aluminum. At least thats what i woud do.........
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
then, after all the polishing is done, wear sunglasses constantly to keep the glare outta ur eyes...even at night, we don't want those city lights making the car seem like a tanning salon.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Polished is nice for sure but I have done the dash in Alum. brushed to avoid fingerprint of a polished dash, if i polish it this would be very hard to keep it clean..
Brushed is nice btw.
Brushed is nice btw.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Hve it powdercoated in black wrinkle. I love when people have me do stuff in this color.
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/coa...on%20Elbow.jpg
http://www.cecoatings.com/images/coa...on%20Elbow.jpg
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by TPl383
Hve it powdercoated in black wrinkle. I love when people have me do stuff in this color.
[IMG]
Hve it powdercoated in black wrinkle. I love when people have me do stuff in this color.
[IMG]
What are this powder you use ?
I do power coating as well (i have a 5feet custom oven)
but never tryed a paint like this.. Is this came from caswell ?
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Originally posted by x007
What are this powder you use ?
I do power coating as well (i have a 5feet custom oven)
but never tryed a paint like this.. Is this came from caswell ?
What are this powder you use ?
I do power coating as well (i have a 5feet custom oven)
but never tryed a paint like this.. Is this came from caswell ?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Almost DONE !!!
New pics !
Almost finish, Hope you like
I will post more pics tonight.
This give a very nice look ! I like at less


Almost finish, Hope you like
I will post more pics tonight.
This give a very nice look ! I like at less


Last edited by x007; Feb 23, 2006 at 03:54 PM.
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From: Runnin' from the Reaper
Car: 91 B4C/91 RS 305
Engine: L98 and L03
Transmission: 2xTH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 LSD/2.73 Open
looks well.... blingtastic.
Looks good excpet for the purple pedal covers and taz floormats.
about those pedal covers. Have you had problems with them slipping off the pedal?
I did on a similar pair i have so i am in the middle of drilling holes in the pedals and bolting them directly on.
Good luck and I can't wait to see the finished product.
Looks good excpet for the purple pedal covers and taz floormats.
about those pedal covers. Have you had problems with them slipping off the pedal?
I did on a similar pair i have so i am in the middle of drilling holes in the pedals and bolting them directly on.
Good luck and I can't wait to see the finished product.
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 147
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From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by darkhorse91
looks well.... blingtastic.
Looks good excpet for the purple pedal covers and taz floormats.
about those pedal covers. Have you had problems with them slipping off the pedal?
I did on a similar pair i have so i am in the middle of drilling holes in the pedals and bolting them directly on.
Good luck and I can't wait to see the finished product.
looks well.... blingtastic.
Looks good excpet for the purple pedal covers and taz floormats.
about those pedal covers. Have you had problems with them slipping off the pedal?
I did on a similar pair i have so i am in the middle of drilling holes in the pedals and bolting them directly on.
Good luck and I can't wait to see the finished product.
Not everyting is finish , but more closer now
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: St. Louis, MO
Car: 85' Firebird (Project), 92' RS
Engine: 2.8L, LS1
Transmission: 700R4, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Open , 10 Bolt (ukn)
this might have been mentioned before, but...do you have a vertical door kit on that car also?
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From: Marengo, IL
Car: 2011 Ranger
Engine: 2.3L
Transmission: Stick - Shift like a man!
Originally posted by 85f-bird
this might have been mentioned before, but...do you have a vertical door kit on that car also?
this might have been mentioned before, but...do you have a vertical door kit on that car also?
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From: w. boylston mass
Car: 91 formula
Engine: 305
Transmission: t5
Originally posted by 85f-bird
this might have been mentioned before, but...do you have a vertical door kit on that car also?
this might have been mentioned before, but...do you have a vertical door kit on that car also?
NICE....
So polishing would have blinded you but that diamond plate sure doesn'y have a shine or look tacky? I will say this, great execution, but I think brushed or engine turning or polishing. But you save the day with the Vertical doors. man those are awesome. Gotta tell where you got the kit or fess up to doing it yourself which you prolly did judging from the workmanship of the dash and center console.
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Posts: 663
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From: Runnin' from the Reaper
Car: 91 B4C/91 RS 305
Engine: L98 and L03
Transmission: 2xTH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 LSD/2.73 Open
Last edited by darkhorse91; Feb 23, 2006 at 09:14 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Canada
Car: Supercharged Nitrous T/A
Engine: Motown 410SBC
Transmission: 4L80 - Compushift / Custom billet torq
Axle/Gears: 12b Moser 33/spl. /373 posi
Originally posted by fitbmxseries1
i also see a notch back!
i also see a notch back!
I have a custom hood & front too

Last edited by x007; Feb 23, 2006 at 09:46 PM.
Senior Member
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Posts: 663
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From: Runnin' from the Reaper
Car: 91 B4C/91 RS 305
Engine: L98 and L03
Transmission: 2xTH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 LSD/2.73 Open
agreed, seeing all those lines through the interior has made me curious as to what you have them pumping to.
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Posts: 335
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From: Marengo, IL
Car: 2011 Ranger
Engine: 2.3L
Transmission: Stick - Shift like a man!
Originally posted by darkhorse91
agreed, seeing all those lines through the interior has made me curious as to what you have them pumping to.
agreed, seeing all those lines through the interior has made me curious as to what you have them pumping to.

That looks like the Alpine 1000W amp to me
Serious bump in the back of that 'Bird 





