How does one do this?

Here's the story... I dropped this formula hood off to paint last week and was told it was done on Friday. I go look at it this morning and it all orange peely and stuff. Furthermore, seom waves in the metal that I could not see whn there was primer on it have become obvious now that it has been painted.

I want to nuke some of the orange peel though and have plenty of 800 grit sandpaper. Is it as easy as I think? It usually isn't...

Advice requested,

 

wet sand, clean it, buff it

 

800 grit might be a bit rough. Go 1000, 1500, then 2000. Make sure to use plenty of water when wetsanding. Buff it out and wax it.

 

This is validating what I am reading on the net. Still, it sounds like this is not a chore for the weak of heart. A little too much sanding in one place that gets me back to primer means another coat of paint (that I ain't gonna do).

Keep it "flooded" while doing it by hand... that's what sticks in my memory at this point about doing this.

 

Def use lots of water, if you know somebody that does detailling or body work they could possibly help you. It's not hard, but takes time to do a good job.
If you do decide to do it yourself put some masking tape on the sharp edges to keep from wet sanding through.
Like you said it will need to be repainted if it's sanded through, I know I've done it.

 

It's a pretty big risk, mainly because you didn't spray it yourself. You don't really know how much material there is laid out on the surface, so you run a big risk of sanding through.

If you must... use 1200 or 1500 grit, only sand it half way to flat. Do not sand ANY of the body lines or edges. Buff it back to a gloss, but be very careful of the body lines, they will burn through before you can say whoops...

 

Did u pay for it to get painted? If so have them do it. That should be part of the job

 

Start with 2000 Grit.....It's the safest way....It takes alot longer to burn thru the paint.....Did they Clear Coat it or just paint? If its just paint you need to be extra careful if there is a clear coat you have a little more room to play....just get yourself a spray bottle and a sanding sponge wrapped in 2000 and keep your surface clean and wet....Look at it this way you cant have to much water on your working surface

 

Thanks gents.

You rock!

 

out of curiosity. what do you use to buff out the finish? DO you have to use a machine or can it be done by hand? Also, any suggestions for rubbing compounds to buff it out?

 

Use water with dish soap mixed in, to keep the paper from clogging and sticking to the paint. Soak and rinse the area with a sponge or towel every minute or so. And have a rag handy so you can dry the surface and check your progress periodically. Stay away from corners and edges. Also, NEVER sand in circles. Always go side to side OR top to bottom, whichever is easier. It's not a very difficult task.

And while you can buff it out by hand, you'll get better/faster results with a machine.

 

I use a Vector Buffer From Autozone it WAS 40 bucks been using it for 2 years no problems... Buffing pads got from Sherwin Williams (Those are kind of expensive) The First is a cutting pad the second a Foam and the Third a foam finishing pad.....The rubbing compound is the Turtle wax red rubbing compound......If your paint is really bad it will turn redish in color so do a test spot......Especially if your car is white.......

 

Ok...

first you need to use clean water with a cap full of soap (to act as lubricant).
No not just water out of the tap. Literally water that has been filtered or distilled in some way. Why? the contaminates of the water can do strange things to the paint when buffed. They can cut, swirl and basically ruin what you just spent several hours fixing.

When I wet sand I usually just use a very large spray bottle with distilled water.

I start with 1500 grit and move in one direction only (front to back)

I also tend to use a large sponge to wrap the paper around. Some say this is bad because you cannot get any feedback about touch and feel through it, but I can (it just took getting used to)

Keep the surface wet, but you do not need to keep it dripping.

When you want to check progress use a terry cloth towel ONLY to wipe the surface clean.

Then start again with 2000 grit.

When you think you are ready to buff it out, with terry cloth towels coated in paint prep cleaner wipe the surface. Then do it again a second time.

There is a 3M product called surface buffing compound (or similar to that) with a soft sponge buff (avail at any auto paint supply store - You want the "softest" one) put a little on the surface (a little goes a long way) and a hand drill (hey it works great for me) again in one direction only (front to back) buff the part out.

Move in strokes about 2-3 feet long relitively slowly putting very little pressure on the pad, you want the buff compound to do the work and not burn through the paint.

forgot to add, do it somewhere with ALOT of GOOD light. Not yellow light, good clean WHITE light.