Paint method questions...
Paint method questions...
I have a few quick questions on how to paint my bird. Most the paint (black, btw) is solid but a little hazy, with a fews chips and scratches here and there. Otherwise, there are a few repaired areas of bare metal, a different color door (red) sanded down to primer, and the other door sanded down to primer.
I was planning on sanding the rest of the finish lightly to take off the clearcoat and gloss, repairing the various problem spots, spot priming all the bare spots, and then taking the whole car in to get a few black basecoats and clearcoats.
Is this the method I should take, or are there any other suggestions? Also, how many coats of black and clear would you guys recommend?
I was planning on sanding the rest of the finish lightly to take off the clearcoat and gloss, repairing the various problem spots, spot priming all the bare spots, and then taking the whole car in to get a few black basecoats and clearcoats.
Is this the method I should take, or are there any other suggestions? Also, how many coats of black and clear would you guys recommend?
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: lewisvilee NC
Car: 89 RS camaro
Engine: 454 swap in progress
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 4.11
well if it was my car i would fix the problem spots like you stated and then sand the whole car down with 320grit. prime the whole car with high build primer then sand it smooth, you could even use guide coat here if you want to be 100% sure the body work is perfect. (i say the whole car becuase it is possible for the different colors of the car to change the darkness/lightness of the paint in that spot) then spray the car with base and clear. and as for how many coats, it depends on your paint. some paint covers better/quicker than others. as for the clear i would spray one med-wet coat then 1-2 more wet. but thats just me. other people do things different ways. but ive done a couple of cars like this and everyone seemed to be pretty happy. do you plan to spray it yourself?
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: I currently live in ohio
Car: I have a 1987 firebird
Engine: it has a 7.5l 455 in it
Transmission: i have a turbo 400
Axle/Gears: im not sure their factory
you can what you want but id be careful how much primer,paint,and clear you put on after you get past a certain thickness it will eventually just crack and chip away too much paint is no good to my experience
Well... for the most part, the topcoat is good. Would it be possible just to sand the gloss off (keep the original primer) and just re-topcoat it, or would this be a bad idea?
I was planning to spot-prime it with the crappy spray gun and small compressor I have, and then see if I could pay somebody to topcoat it for me.
You see, my g/f's dad has an used car lot, and does a lot of bodywork (obviously). I figure if I'm really nice, he'll let me paint it in his shop for a small fee. The priming I can always do panel-by-panel.
Originally Posted by 89importeater
do you plan to spray it yourself?
You see, my g/f's dad has an used car lot, and does a lot of bodywork (obviously). I figure if I'm really nice, he'll let me paint it in his shop for a small fee. The priming I can always do panel-by-panel.
Last edited by noc_81; Aug 4, 2006 at 05:03 PM.
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From: 62656
Car: 1991 S10 pickup 2700lbs
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Transmission: 700R4
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yes only where needed, where theres flaws that need filled and then you need to wetsand and reprime those spots a few times til its perfectly smooth, then its ready for basecoat
if they are deep gouges or anything then use glaze, usually its the green paste in the squeeze tube, at napa and such
because primer would take all year to fill in deeper ones and require way more sanding then youll want to be doing
priming/wet sanding every blemish you can see on the car is the way to prep it for the first paint
take your time and find al the blemishes
if you miss one then you will know it later when it gets worse as more paint goes over it
good luck
if they are deep gouges or anything then use glaze, usually its the green paste in the squeeze tube, at napa and such
because primer would take all year to fill in deeper ones and require way more sanding then youll want to be doing
priming/wet sanding every blemish you can see on the car is the way to prep it for the first paint
take your time and find al the blemishes
if you miss one then you will know it later when it gets worse as more paint goes over it
good luck
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So, basically I should sand everything down with a block, and then level and prime all the low spots.
Would it be a good idea to "glaze" the whole car? And would that require a full priming?
Would it be a good idea to "glaze" the whole car? And would that require a full priming?
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From: Miami
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Originally Posted by noc_81
So, basically I should sand everything down with a block, and then level and prime all the low spots.
Would it be a good idea to "glaze" the whole car? And would that require a full priming?
Would it be a good idea to "glaze" the whole car? And would that require a full priming?
No, only glaze or use putty where it's necessary. And yes, it would require priming if you did. And some quick advice, don't rush this. Take all the time in the world and do it right.
Originally Posted by ScottyRS
And some quick advice, don't rush this. Take all the time in the world and do it right.
Thanks for all the advice everyone. Mostly, I just need to get the guts and finally start sanding it down to get it painted.
Any recommendations on whether I should go for a single coat or clear/base type paint?
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