plain and simple. i have the LO3 in my '90 formula. and i only have intake and exhaust for mods so far. im tired of the ricers that only have those mods and can beat me in a race because they weigh like 50lbs. so between mods, i need to lose weight. i dont care about the looks at all so i ripped out the interior and the back seats. next i want to do the doors. i just need to knowhow much weight i will lose by getting rid of power windows. also i need more ideas of other things i can do to take some pounds off the 'bird. any help will be GREATLY appreciated.

 

I don't have any exact numbers but there is a noticable weight difference between the power and manual windows doors. Since realizing that I've been on the lookout for more manual window doors. Other things you can do to save weight is a glass hood, aluminum heads, aluminum water pump, removing the A/C (inc blower motor by the firewall and condenser by the radiator), removing the AIR pump, removing the heater core behind the dash, removing the OEM crash bars front/rear and having mild steel tubes welded in place, and another one is replacing the OEM glass with SpeedGlass or Lexan. Those are some ideas, there are more if you try a search.

 

shouldnt i be able to do most of that myself...like the removal of engine bay parts and maybe the doors? or do you think i should get a pro to do most of that?

 

unfortunatley, in 1990 GM incorporated larger, Heavier crash impact absorbers in the doors (Along with the ugly air bag steering wheels).

If you were to swing both a 1990-92 door vs a 82-84 door, you would notice a major improvement. I did when I had my 84 and 90 together.

It is possible to swap the Power windows and locks over to manual, I have done it in my Formula, there is not that much of a weight difference, but it is nice to have more reliable working parts.

 

I was comparing manual window doors from an 84 to power window doors from an 89 and power window doors from a 91. My tests were not scientific though, just going by feel. Hold the door 1/2 way open and move it a few inches each way over and over. I didn't really notice a difference between the 89 and 91 power window doors. I'd like to actually measure them and find the difference. I've been meaning to do that with a bunch of parts I have, just need to get a good scale.

 

it takes 100lbs to shave a tenth .01 off your time. that means 1,000lbs to make your car a true 1 second faster. lets say you removed both your doors on your car and saved 300lbs. you could equally match this with sticky tires and learning to drive right while going down a road that was on a slant. obviously everything adds up but some things just aren't worth it.

your getting beat by foreign cars because their cars are lighter and have more horsepower. cutting up your doors... spending the hours to interchange things is pointless to really go through all of that.

i hate to say deal with being slow or build a motor/more mods but that's the story...

but too add to your help here are some suggestions.

fiberglass hood... saves alot. remove your spare tire and jack, remove all of your carpeting (possibly rhino line your floor), replace your drivers seat with a lightweight and cheap jaz style race seat, remove your passenger and rear seats, remove your center console and dash pad, remove all a/c parts, change to manual steering, if you have 16's drop down to 15's or pick up a light weight race wheel (centerline makes a 17lb 17" forged rim.. very light, replace your rear hatch with lexan glass as well as the rear decklid with fiberglass version.... ahh we could go on but that's alot right there.

 

so far ive already taken out the carpet and rear seats. and i am presently workin on a hood. but to go to manual steering what all would i need to do?

 

You will need: An S10 manual steering box, a shorter belt (if you're serpentine). You may have to swap the Pitman arm over (little arm coming out of the S10 steering box) but the one on your old power box should work. You should be able to do this mod for under 100 bucks and it will help. Another cheap consideration would be an aluminum, or electric water pump, and an aluminum Drive shaft. The driveshaft and tires will help more than the other weight mods since it's driveline weight. Another HUGE improvement will be a smaller diameter higher stall converter. As for manual windows weighing less than power windows, there is almost NO difference. The difference you were feeling was either the crash bars, or the age of the pins.

 

Here....this is easier.

THE WEIGHT REDUCTION THREAD

P.S. Why hasnt this thread become a sticky? It has many parts to take off/replace and also has pictures and weights of ALOT OF PARTS. Anyway this should help you out on how much your losing and what you will lose most weight from. YOUR WELCOME.

 

Check out this tech article from the main page....lots of good info and some pretty accurate weight loss

https://www.thirdgen.org/sheddingpounds
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Or if you are a big guy like me.....try loosing some personal weight....my goal is to drop some pounds on me for next season

 

Hey thanks.

 

Also try swaping to manual brakes. I have manual steering, manual brakes, soon to get a electric water pump, and get some electric cooling fans if you do not have any already, the hp lost thru spinning a clutch fan can be noticeable.