today I had an oil pressure switch replaced due to a slight leak from it. What does this switch do? Does it effect my oil pressure guage on the cluster?

 

I believe there are two - one is on the head, driver side, which sends info to your guage as you guessed. The other is actually an Oil Pressure Sending Unit - located just above the oil filter - this one directs current to the fuel pump - no pressure = no fuel - a bad one can keep the fuel pump from running, and also can make the fuel pump run continuously, killing your battery after about 4 days.

 

welcome to the boards pretty much what he said had to replace one on my old RS cause it started leaking too and guage was reading hardly any pressure

 

Thanks for the welcome... Ok the part cost about 15 bucks and 10 for labor does that help identify which part this is? didn't understand how an oil pressure switch is involved with fuel pump and killing battery, coul someone explain that to me?

 

Short version: it's used as a safety interlock for the EFI (electronic fuel
injection). If the engine stops running (& oil pressure -> 0), the fuel
system shuts down.

Welcome aboard. Be advised this forum is frequented by some seriously
talented gearheads, and equally frivolous gas-bags. To find like minded
individuals in your area, check out the regional boards. I'll bet you can
find numerous guys more than willing to help a lady that understands
our passion for these cars.

Update your info in the User CP area, so we know a bit more about you.

 

The oil pressure switch powers the fuel pump in case the fuel pump relay fails.

When the engine starts turning over, the oil pump builds up oil pressure until the oil pressure switch turns on. When the engine stops turning, the oil pressure drops and the oil pressure switch turns off. If the switch is defective and gets stuck on, the fuel pump will continue to run after the car shuts off. This will drain the battery.

 

It is also an interlock on carbed F-Bodies with the in-tank pusher fuel pump. Mine had one on it and the relay and this switch died and the pump quit working.

 

Did that require the tank to be dropped to fix it? If so, that would suck.

I'll x2 what most others said. They are quite correct on how it works. 15 for part is about right, surprised labor is that cheap, they must not be charging you for "flat hour" like some shops around here just for 5min of work.

Welcome to boards.

 

No the pump was fine. I just had to replace the psi switch, the relay, and then there was a wiring problem going to the relay that had to be fixed because the relay fried something down the line. But it was never the pump. I put power on it (the pump) and it still worked. As of now I have a new psi switch and a new relay that don't fire up the pump.

So in a way yes, I will have to drop the tank in order to pull the pump out and do away with it.

Maybe I will try to rewire it. I don't know... I will cross that bridge when I get to it.

 

Aperion has it correct. It's a back up and that's all. If your oil pressure drops to zero it doesn't shut down the fuel pump.. it's not wired to where that is possible.
You can remove the switch and the fuel pump works just fine. There are three separate power sources for the fuel pump. The oil pressure switch, the fuel pump relay and the ECM. ( The ECM only primes the system before starting )

 

At one time I had the fourth method running ... a wire from the battery to the relay wires


Sensors can be a real pain, I have to put my new oil pressure switch in as well, transfered it over from my original engine, and the plastic broke and everything fell out.


Remember .. sensors are made to break down and fail, so we all have to buy new ones.