hey guys im wondering how hard it is going to be to replace my right side quater panel does neone know price ranges for a shop to do it or how hard it would be to do it myself. i already have the replacement panel . there is alot of cracked bond in it thats why im doing this

 

if you dont know how to weld I would not recommend doing this yourself, you have to do alot of measuring, then cut the old one out, then weld the new one in. If I was in your situation, I'd grind all the old bondo out of the 1/4 thats on there, and see why its there, then possibly fix what the problem was without replacing the 1/4.
good luck and happy holidays

 

Agreed, find out why the bondo is there and if it needs to be there. If it's covering up rust, it will need replaced and if it's from a wreck, there's a good chance the person that did the bodywork was not very good at metalworking. It may just need the work done better.
Also, when installing a factory quarter (not an after market skin), welding is the old-fashioned rust-prone way of doing it. 3M panel bonding adhesive is a MUCH better option these days.

 

From having personally done this on my car, I can tell you its a LOT of work. Lots of careful cutting, measuring, and welding involved. I did a complete skin, which includes the rear portion of the door jamb (where the door striker is), which means you have to be dead on or you'll have major door closing/fitment issues. There are plenty of spot welds that have to be drilled out with a drill bit or a spot weld cutter (available from Eastwood). I wouldn't recommend using Panel Bonding adhesive where any of the spot welds are, as the QP is a major strcutrual component on these cars. I have used the Panel Bonding adhesive many times and I realize that it is very, very strong, it's just that personally I would prefer to have welds holding the majority of my car together. (I also seem to remember the information sheet included with the adhesive saying something about not being for use on structural parts). I would however use it where the QP meets the roof panel (on the B-pillar), as this is the most visible portion of the repair. Make sure you spray 3M Rust-Fighter or something similar into all of the areas that you have welded on once you're done, like behind the door jamb, and into the wheelwell from inside the car. I'm with the other guys though, find out why it's been repaired and take it from there. Hope this helps, if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

 

thnx guys but its in there because the guy that used to own it got hit and if u take of the plasics inside its all bent in the frame is fine tho but ya eveything is ready to go my step dad is going to help me because he is a good welder but ya thnx guys

 

Been there, done that! Good luck with the project.

 

Actually, that's the wrong place to use the panel bonding adhesive. I guess I should have been more clear earlier, the adhesive is stronger when used properly. Properly would include welding at high stress points, which would include in this case: sail panel to roof seam, rear body panel to quarter seam, and lower door jamb area. This of course, only applies to factory full quarter panels.

 

You got a wave in that sail panel.

 

Id say thats lighting...

 

I used a factory full quarter. I used the adhesive about 6 inches below the upper rear corner of the window, where the outer skins met (just on the flat, exterior sheetmetal). It was welded everywhere else. Been that way for several years and a bunch of miles now, no issues.

 

I'd say you're right.