My car has no rust except for the rear quarter behind the tire on the drivers side. the prev owner backed into something and didn't fix it. It has the factory skirt kit thing (i don't know what they are called) i removed ti and founf two rot holes, they are about the size of my palm (maybe a bit bigger) and i don't know what to do. Should i fill them in or just cut the whole thing out and replace it with some thin steel or something? any info is appreciated

 

Photos? I had a problem similar to this but I am not sure of the location.

 

You should cut out the section, And weld in a new patch panel... If you want an easy temp solution, you could wire clean the area put on some por 15 or rust remover, and just fiberglass it...

 

After brushing, even after cutting use navel jelly, its my favorite because when done right, all you see is bare metal. You can also rivit a new panel instead of weld, but it seems kind of hoakey to me, probably even an adhesive for it now "like the one for door shells".

A haynes manual gives basic bodywork instructions in the back, will see if I can scan them or something, if its desired.

Isn't fiberglass a little hard to work with, if its your first time?
If you have it, Stainless steel tape or aluminum tape for a quick temp solution...duct tape? hahaha. the steel and alum are sharp as hell so careful.

 

Hmmm, Well, Fiberglass isnt that hard, You could use the Fiberglass from the brand Bondo... You lay the jelly on around the area to be patched, then lay the cut out that you'll make out of the Fiberglass material, stick that on the jelly, then cover the top of the fiberglass with more the the jelly... lol hmmm make sense? But as long as he follows the directions on it, shouldnt be difficult...

 

Glassing isn't that difficult. Should use a backing and the "jelly" is actually resin and it needs to be catalyzed. Match it to the panel as close as possible. Pretty hard to shape once cured, not to mention the mess and health risks. Proper ventilation and use of a resporator highly recommended.

 

navel jelly? resin? I was speaking of Rust dissolver.

Jumping around the internet real quick.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/navel-jelly-93086.html
http://www.rustrelease.com/?gclid=CO...FQ77iAodIyGfVw
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/nave...y-93086-3.html
The last one speaks of using acid.

http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-Corpora...3211013&sr=8-1
I have a bottle of it but its not the -same- stuff. Its older, so this link must be the newer stuff.

 

Those links are really helpful (lots of info). I will get pics up tomorrow. The holes are behind the rear wheel on the drivers side, on the bottom of the fender. It's rigth where the back bumper attaches to the car. Thats my best description i can give for now. The pics will help better. The one hole can u can fit almost a fist thru it.

 

What i ound worked on my rear wells, depending on how big the hole is anyways - is cutting the hole out, welding the patch, fiberglassing the inside and getting an undercoating.

if the hole isnt that big and you justw anna fiberglass, get the bondo stuff. short strand fiberglass bondo works great for filling in, but doubled up with the fiberglass cloth is great for holes.

 

The area its on is behind the skirt, so u don't see it when it's covered. I don't care what it looks like, its more to stop and prevent the rusting. I don't want to cover it up, I want to get rid of it before it gets worse. I'll post pics and try the fiberglass method. thank you guys (and gals) for the info! I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Read something about rubber coatings on truck beds and underbody.

A knick in it can allow water to get to the metal, with a rubber coating it'll hold it unlike a prime/paint coating. So yeah. People were saying instead of rubbering the bed of the truck, just sand and paint, put a rubber mat down "supposed to remove and clean them all the time anyway" same with car bra's (which aren't supposed to be left on after getting wet or it makes paint swirls "read it on the instructions ")

Anyway, I have a gallon of undercoat, not sure what its made of...

Thanks, just my $0.02USD

Edit: also, save up to get a car blasted, when you go for a paint job? Cheap is never the way to go...

 

I never do things cheap. I'm intending on taking the car to a professional later in the summer, but i don't want the rust to spread any more. I always believe in doing things right the first time, but in my case i do not have the money to get the job done right now (student budget lol). Eventually I'm going to get the whole car painted this year. I'm taking it to the GM show in august in St. Catherines Ontario!

 

hey, temp work is temp work. just never let it become perm. work.

 

 

Just cut it out and weld in a new peice - Here is what I did.

I actually got a cutoff from a part out car but i think you can buy this peice from classic industries or some other places...

 

Wish I had a welder. Classic industries is among the best, I will be dumping every company I can think of into my journal.


we're looking for a temp fix now.





Ah well, i'm letting the topic rest a bit, till I see what happens.

 

Wow that hole is exactly like mine. did u weld that on? I don't know how to weld is it hard?

 

Yes, i welded it on.. Until about 1 year ago, when i bought my MIG, i had never even held any kind of welder and had no real knowledge of how it worked.. Back then, i did some practicing and was ok but not great, then never really used the welder very much for a while but have recently started using it on my car and am definatley getting better - it just takes practice.. I know, thats what everyone says but it's true.. do some reading and practics a lot using different thicknesses of metal and change the settings on your welder so u can get an idea of what works and what doesnt and you will get it after not too long.. I am currently replacing the entire floor in my camaro, and have just finished welding up the drivers side rocker too and like i said, i have never done any of this kind of work before, just learning as i go. Being able to bend and shape the metal you are working with is also a major part of being good at welding.. as in, the better the metal fits, the easier it is to weld it..

Good luck man!