Hello, I want to get everyone’s opinion as to how you think is the correct way to do body work like which primers to use, fillers, etc. First off which is better for corrosion resistance? Etching primer or epoxy primer? I have a project car that I have been doing for sometime now, it’s an 85 camaro. I completely stripped the body down to the bare metal. Now I know a lot of guys say to epoxy prime the metal first then do your body work followed by another coat of epoxy then a surfacer. Now a lot of guys will say only do your mud work on bare metal if properly prepped for the best adhesion. Which is better to do? When I did my car I did the mud work right on the metal, what ever bare metal was showing I coated with a good two part etching primer then sprayed the whole car with a surfacer. Can you use epoxy primer over etching primer? Now if there were remaining low spots I blocked with 180 grit paper then coated with poly putty (dolphin glaze). The surfacer I used is from sherwin williams p30A, is anyone familiar with their products? Is their surfacer water proof? If I let the car sit a while just in primer will it be prone to absorbing moisture? What exactly is the correct way to do this, how would you do your own car? Like I said I am looking for anyone’s opinion. Has anyone used u-pol’s reface poly primer as well? I thought about trying it on my hood (fiberglass) but would like to hear some good stuff about it before I buy some.


I also wanted to do the engine block the same color as the car, what’s a good prepping method to do so? I was told just spray the block with etching primer then your base then clear. Has anyone done this and how were your results and is it long lasting? Sorry for all the questions haha

 

I never got that far into at (Bare metal) I sanded my whole car with 80 grit, then again with 120.. Primed with urethane primer and then did my filling work.. Turned out better than I thought..

 

Some of your questions could probably best be answered by the Sherwin-Williams store where you bought your paint.
I always do mud work on bare metal. Yes I'm an old school bodyman, but the method has proven itself over the years. I always thought the epoxy primer/mud/epoxy primer scenario was dreamed up by the epoxy primer manufacturer to sell more of their expensive paint. But I also think there is some logic to it, especially in cases like yours where the project is going to take some time. Epoxy is good stuff and certainly has it's place in the industry.
As far as using epoxy over other primers, it is thinned and used as the sealer before the topcoat, which pretty much means it's sprayed over everything.

 

sounds like you have a pretty good method. although spraying the whole car with surfacer is a bit much. unless its really really bad.

as far as waterproof primers. any two part (catalyst/hardener) deal is waterproof.

 

bc/cc wont withstand the temps of the engine block and will burn off.

check out

http://www.autobody101.com

this is one of the most help sources of info that i found and still use for body and paint work.

 

Well, what I like to do is lead the ****ers. Then use a body primer which has a little bit of filler in it. Find an ol' skool metal fabricator and get him to teach you leading. If you can't read some rod magazines and search it up online. There are also some good books on it. I personally think the only thing bondo is good for is for plastic stuff. That is just my opinion so no one take offence to it some of the greatest rodders in todays world use bondo so please don't go ape **** on me only giving a suggestion.

 

bondo shouldnt be used on plastic. they make a two part epoxy that is flexible for urethane fascias and such. the problem with bondo is it is abused. when used correctly (less then 1/8" thick and NOT to fill holes), bondo (plastic body filler) will out last the car.

 

I tons of fiber glass and the last project I did I didn't use bondo I used a product called "Ice" and it was a glaze for urethane and I fell in love with it.

Leading is very oldschool and absolutely AWESOME and I look forward to learning it. I caught a show on some one restoring a aluminum body and they showed the guy leading the dents, the principal is easy and it didn't look to hard but I could be wrong.

But in the past I have welded holes and used filler to smooth it out. On urethane I have used a heat gun to correct big warps and then used fiberglass (urethane type resin) to reinforce and a urethane glaze to smooth it all out.

They have sealer type primers and I always get a sandable type because im a perfectionist like that. Always use several coats of primer and I lightly sand each coat to have a nice even base.

 

Sounds like the way I paint cars. Filler on bare metal, finished with 220 and the bare metal sprayed with self etch or the entire car in epoxy. Then surfacer finished with 320(500 for black; personal preference). Next spray your sealer and base. I have used Martin Senior (Napa;Sherwin Williams) a-lot and have never had any problems. Make sure you spray the base within 24 hours of the sealer or you will have to sand the entire car for proper adhesion(using Martin Senior). Then clear and finish sand with at least 1500(I like 3000 for that mirror finish). Hope I could help.