well im welding in a new floor pan so i want to coat the both sides of everything.

just wondering the pluses and minuses of each. i see people reccomend one or the other. im mainly looking at ease of application and cost. they bpth seem like similar and effective products. i have noticed alot of people having problems with prep and peeling with the POR15, just wondering if the same probs happen with rust bullet. all info and reccomendations appreciated.

 

I por-15'd my whole interior. Its good stuff and works good. As long as you clean the area well before applying your all set. I think the general consensus of the board would be por-15. Its easy to apply, you just paint it on but it will stick to your skin for days after so i reccomend wearing gloves and a longsleeve shirt when applying it. POR-15 is expensive though but its worth it. My napa stocks it on the shelf so i dont have to order offline.

 

I don't know to much about rust bullet but por-15 has worked very well for me. Make sure you follow all the correct steps.

 

well it just seem slike the same(rust bullet) but i cant seem to see any prep steps online. POR15 has reccomended items how to use and apply everything.

i never thought about looking/calling some local auto stores to get these. might have to do that.

 

Yea my NAPA had it on the shelf and i didnt buy any prep parts. POR15 is made to be applied on bare metal, all the other stuff is pointless as you can buy proper cleaning supplies at walmart. Just take your time and apply it carefully.

 

I like the sem rust shield better.

 

Well whatever i get i have to order because nothign is carried locally.

 

I used rustbullet for the fact I didn't need to topcoat it. Cheaper cost but the same prep steps are required. The parts still look like I painted them yesturday.

 

would i need to topcoat anything? it would be under the car and under some carpet(and sound deadener)? if rust bullet is the same i might try that since im ordering from summit anyhow.

 

POR-15® is sensitive to UV light (sun) and must be topcoated for prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Topcoating is not required for areas not exposed to sunlight.

 

next questiong i will ask is how much you think ill need? would 1 quart be enough? i think 1 gallon would be overkill and i dont think ill be getting a new car anytime soon to need extra.

 

For just floorboards, one may be enough but just get two quarts to be safe.

 

One quart of por-15 is all you need. A little goes along way with this stuff.

 

i think it said the gallon did 200 square feet with 2 coats. i planned on doing top and bottom from the firewall to the back of the hatch. still think 1 quart would be enough. seems like you have to do 2 coats form what i read.

 

I've used both and will never touch POR15 again. I prepped with their products exactly as the instructions said and had peeling issues. Also it would NOT stick on old paint. Others swear by it and have had better results.

I've tried RustBullet with ZERO prep other than knocking the scale rust off and it worked great. I did that just as a test. I coated my fuel filter bracket which was rusted like crazy. I let it dry 20 mins and sprayed Rustoleum black over it. That was 2 years ago and it looks exactly the same as when I finished it. I coated all my front end steering linkage, and it looks great still. My personal preference is Rust Bullet.

 

well im going to go with rust bullet but i have a prep question.

how do i get the sticky patches under the carpet off the floor pan? love to do this because i plan on ordering the stuff withiin the week.

 

bump

 

wondering about a cheap tool to cut out the floor pan. I can get a air tool and borrow my friends compressor but.... i dont really want to spend $60 for a toll i wont ever use again. any suggestions for this?

 

I hear a good rust proof is camper/mobile home roof sealant.

Alumicoat.

Inexpensive, but works good.

To dilute to spray in tight spots, just use kerosene.


Trust me it will work.

 

With Por15 you absolutely have to kill the rust before you apply the Por15 over it. They suggest using the metal ready acid, but there are similar acids out there that do it too. The acid also etches the surrounding metal. If you do not keep the metal and rust wet with the acid for 20-30 minutes, it will not work. Only after the metal is etched and the rust is dead can you apply the Por15. Skimp and the rust will come back and you will have adhesion issues.