Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics
I have now begun my first major project on my bird and it's the project I never wanted to do, floors. My car was not taken car of and is full of red neck body work. I will also be replacing the lh quarter and part of the rh quarter panel. But not for a few weeks yet. To make it even more clear how bad the car was taken care of, my 1974 Nova SS that was a daily driver with 460K miles has absolutely no holes in the floors, it was taken care of. So PLEASE, get your car undercoated!
Any way, in two days (about four hours for me) the car is almost ready to start removal of the old pans. Today I just ripped out half the carpet, then noticed it was 110 degrees (seriously it was) outside and went in. So here are some pics of my passenger floor. It's quite horrible, and will need need a chassis alignment and subframe connectors once finished. But since I'll never race it, it should be safe. I'll be replacing the everything but the trans tunnel. The doors will be removed and x-braces installed to prevent frame twisting and settling since it's a t-top car.
To do the welding I ordered a cheap Campbell Huasfeld mig welder off ebay. It probably won't last that long but I'm on a budget and it'll do. Mig should be used instead of flux core since it is stronger and is honestly easier (thanks for that bit of info TGO). Any way, here's some pics.
Any way, in two days (about four hours for me) the car is almost ready to start removal of the old pans. Today I just ripped out half the carpet, then noticed it was 110 degrees (seriously it was) outside and went in. So here are some pics of my passenger floor. It's quite horrible, and will need need a chassis alignment and subframe connectors once finished. But since I'll never race it, it should be safe. I'll be replacing the everything but the trans tunnel. The doors will be removed and x-braces installed to prevent frame twisting and settling since it's a t-top car.
To do the welding I ordered a cheap Campbell Huasfeld mig welder off ebay. It probably won't last that long but I'm on a budget and it'll do. Mig should be used instead of flux core since it is stronger and is honestly easier (thanks for that bit of info TGO). Any way, here's some pics.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Car: 1987 Pontiac GTA
Engine: 350tpi
Transmission: t56 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics
i thought mine were bad i dont feel so bad anymore. Mine dont have holes just very rusty in the front drivers side but the hammer still went through it so i will be doing patches also and probably putting on some bedliner. Just be sure to find your waterleaks or all your hard work would be useless.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 68
Likes: 1
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: 350th
Axle/Gears: 373:1
Re: Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics
Looks like you have the same rust as me. Not damage wise, but my rear passenger and front are rusted. The front could be from the cowl and failed seam sealer check your firewall for damage under your dash. Mine has rust where the seam sealer failed. Looks like it'll be a good thread!
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 388
Likes: 0
From: Iroquois, ON
Car: 87 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Not sure, gotta look it up
Re: Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics
Watching your progress. Good luck.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Des Moines, IA
Car: 90 Formula WS6, 86 Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 TBI, 2.8 MPFI
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4w/vette servos
Axle/Gears: 2.73 Open, 3.42 Open
Re: Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics

Well here's some more pics. Took off my door panels, found out there actually not rusting from the inside out like the crackhead PO said. So I've got a pair of white doors with a heck of alot of surface rust if anybodies ineterested, no ground fx.
The drivers side is the opposite of the passenger. The front is horrible and the back isn't that bad. I'm fairly sure the back leaks are due to loose t-tops. I think the drivers side front rust is from the door weatherstripping, or lack of, there really isn't any left. Don't know what the passenger side is from. But I't rains here alot so it shouldn't take long to figure out. Plan on resealing all the seems and new weatherstripping all around.
All seems to be progressing well. My welder is due here tomorrow and I should be able to order floor pans early next week. I hope to replace floor pans, door hinges, fenders, and put the front half of the car in primer by early August (when school starts). You guys think I can do it. I don't wanna take my step dad's honda to school
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
Car: 1987 Pontiac GTA
Engine: 350tpi
Transmission: t56 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Re: Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics
By durabondi hope u dont mean the panel bond. That stuff is good for cars that have frames but seeing as how these cars are unibody the floor twists and has stress on it so wouldnt be a good idea. When i did mine i punches holes in it and spot welded it with the mig then stitch welded the outside of the patch to the original floor.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee,Wisconsin
Car: 1990 Camaro RS
Engine: TBI 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt 2.73
Re: Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics
Yeah my floors in my camaro are and were pretty bad. I had some big holes in the floors but I am fixing them!
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Re: Replacing Floor Pans, With Pics
Mig is great, but Durabond 90 and Tar are WAY better
Well here's some more pics. Took off my door panels, found out there actually not rusting from the inside out like the crackhead PO said. So I've got a pair of white doors with a heck of alot of surface rust if anybodies ineterested, no ground fx.
The drivers side is the opposite of the passenger. The front is horrible and the back isn't that bad. I'm fairly sure the back leaks are due to loose t-tops. I think the drivers side front rust is from the door weatherstripping, or lack of, there really isn't any left. Don't know what the passenger side is from. But I't rains here alot so it shouldn't take long to figure out. Plan on resealing all the seems and new weatherstripping all around.
All seems to be progressing well. My welder is due here tomorrow and I should be able to order floor pans early next week. I hope to replace floor pans, door hinges, fenders, and put the front half of the car in primer by early August (when school starts). You guys think I can do it. I don't wanna take my step dad's honda to school

Well here's some more pics. Took off my door panels, found out there actually not rusting from the inside out like the crackhead PO said. So I've got a pair of white doors with a heck of alot of surface rust if anybodies ineterested, no ground fx.
The drivers side is the opposite of the passenger. The front is horrible and the back isn't that bad. I'm fairly sure the back leaks are due to loose t-tops. I think the drivers side front rust is from the door weatherstripping, or lack of, there really isn't any left. Don't know what the passenger side is from. But I't rains here alot so it shouldn't take long to figure out. Plan on resealing all the seems and new weatherstripping all around.
All seems to be progressing well. My welder is due here tomorrow and I should be able to order floor pans early next week. I hope to replace floor pans, door hinges, fenders, and put the front half of the car in primer by early August (when school starts). You guys think I can do it. I don't wanna take my step dad's honda to school

That's a cool resto project you've got there. If you would like check out what we have available for weatherstrip here's a link to that section of our website.
Pontiac Weatherstrip
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