I should probably say here that I'm aware that buffing it will take away most of the satin look. that's perfectly ok with me. I don't really want it totally flat, semi glass is fine.

I just want whatever I wind up with to be even

 

Back in the day spraying satin was a PITA. Products like Hot Rod Black and the like have made it much easier. No buffing need and you really shouldn't sand it. So any dirt that might show up can be difficult to remove/repair. I would think it would be perfect for stripes. I'm a fan of the light green fine line tape rather than the blue. I've found that the blue isn't real keen in warmer temps and typically won't stay in place overnight.

Measure off the stripes, mask them off. Use a gray scotchbrite to rough up the clear and spray. Unmask instantly and Bob's your Uncle.

 

for tape, I've used this before. it's the same stuff as the green, and it makes pinstriping so easy

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/3m-s...4-p-14346.aspx

my problem without sanding and buffing is laying it down flat without any orange peel. I'm close, but I think it's going to need some attention afterwards. maybe I'm wrong...

 

I've never been able to "buff" satin and maintain a consistent sheen. You'll have peel and you'll have dirt, just try to keep it to a minimum.

 

hmmm.. bad news for me.... I may stop at two coats then if I don't plan on buffing.

would faster, lighter coats be better if I'm trying to avoid peel, and not looking for gloss?

 

Look at the manufacturers recommendation. Lighter coats may get you into an adhesion issue. I think you'll find that orange peel won't be as noticeable on a satin finish.

 

Ok. Great tip. Not too thin, but not thick like clear. If it goes on like my base, ill be happy

 

two "wet" coats is what's recommended on stuff like hot rod flatz, not sure if that's what you're spraying but i'm a big fan of it. When I reduced per the label I found it a lot thinner than I expected it to be though. Just my experience.

 

I sure wish I had posted this before I bought the paint! I ordered the Kustom shop satin quart kit...

 

great place to get cheap flatz is tcpglobal.com my local paint stores in orlando charges $70 a quart for hot rod flatz and last time i checked they were like $135 a gallon. Not sure if they have quarts. They're out of cali so you can't go downtown to get it but they usually have good deals.

 

why not lay a normal black and put a flattening agent in the clear? (this way if you need to colro sand and buff anything you can)

 

kustom shop is the hot rod flatz, if you wanna put some research into spray techniques try youtubing ed hubbs or kustom shop and you can get some advice from the guy that helped come out with some of the stuff. Even a dvd out http://www.tcpglobal.com/KustomShop/ for $10 bucks on how to lay this stuff from the some of the best.

 

Is it possible to stripe HRF if not applied correctly?

 

I was hoping for a contrast between the really glossy body and the satin stripes. With dark gray with black stripes, I needed a contrast boost

 

I like that idea alot, haven't seen it much I'm sprayin mine in a few weeks with hot rod flatz gunmetal gray and hok kandy apple comlete opposites

 

what about dp90 with a ppg 2060 satin clearcoat this will leave a semiflat finish

John Deere blitz black , lays out nice , single stage , holds up good, cheep as hell.

 

point is moot.. already bought the paint...

I LOVE SPI clear. If I was going to buy more clear, I'd buy that

 

I'm pissed... they have changed this from the last time I used it. It used to be really easy to divide the section with the pullouts, and now I't next to impossible. I Tried my new roll I just bought on my hood and everytime I tried to seperate the sections, the tape stretched and tore, and just created a frustrating mess

To test it, I pulled out a partial roll of the same stuff I used 18 months ago. I didn't have enough to do the full job, but I put a 12 inches on the hood, and selected two small 1/16th inch sections to lift out. They came out effortlesly and cleanly. The new roll was a disaster

There's money I'll never get back, plus now I have to go buy more of the regular green tape to do the job the old fashioned way

 

I didnt know so I contacted PPG. Satin black can not be sanded or buffed. How it lays down is how it will stay. They stated the same as FSTBDY that there is a "satin" clear. I didnt ask think to ask if the satin clear could be sanded. But the clear could be more glossy than what you want. Orange peel is often caused by the painters spray technique (air pressure, distance, ect), so just make sure you got your technique down. I have always used 3m "scotch" blue tape, with no issues. Good luck, make sure to post pics of the finished result, I am curious to see it.

 

Spraying Monday. Getting nervous because i've never painted before where I didn't gave the option of sanding and buffing afterwards to correct my mistakes. I'm the the most worried about dirt and trash in the satin. I'm going to try hanging plastic sheets in my garage to see if that helps.

I'm also going to keep the garage door closed, which i've never done before

 

I chickened out and went and bought a pint of glossy black pro spray paint. I already had the activator and reducer so it only cost me 20 dollars

I got too nervous about dust in my garage, and also it didn't hurt that my wife said that when the vinyl was on the car (briefly) the satin stripes looked strange. Glossy stripes looked great before, but I thought it would be cool to have a contrast between the glossy clear coat and the satin stripes. Oh well... I'm sure they will look fine