I need some tips on the best way of removing my cars peeling clearcoat lines.

It is only on my rear quarter panels but it looks pretty bad. I tried using 1500 sand paper but it ended up leaving a white spot on the area i used it in.

I dont want to remove all of the clearcoat i just basically want to blend it in without standing out as much.

Heres what im talking about


Anybody have any ideas?

 

I have heard once the clearcoat peels, a repaint is necessary.

 

Lol obviously, im looking for a temp solution.

 

OK then - good luck with that.

 

....sand it down and prime it....

 

I'd wet sand it carefully, so as you don't cut through the color coat. 1000 -2000 grit, go carefully. Then polish. Then seal with the automotive detailing sealant of your choice.

 

@patin..wouldnt that leave a patch and make things worse? Im not trying to get a paint job here just want to blend it in lol.

 

for temp. then wet sand the quarter tell there is a dulling of the color, and you get it smooth, tape the edges with hard edge tape, clean well with wax & grease remover, mask off and spray with rattle can clear. you can get some good quality products, which will make the deference.

 

After you wet sand it, (WET not dry), it's gonna look whitish, flat and just plain not nice. That's when you polish it - either by hand or if you have an orbital - it'll shine right up. Just don't sand or buff through the color. Go slow.

 

Thanks chaz, ima give that a shot. I just wanted to know the best way to go about it i know it wont be perfect, just didnt want to start scratching everything up.

 

Sorry about that chaz that post was meant for patin.

I do have an orbital along with Polishing and rubbing compound.

Should i bother using the rubbing compound first?

 

I'd wet sand first. And when you buff, start with the LEAST agressive polish.

 

@flydoc
I have some rattle can clear, once the clear is on should i do anything to it or just spray it and leave it? Would wet sanding it shine it up any?

 

Leave it alone, you're only making more work for yourself for later.

 

I was able to do my bumper, the side's are a lot harder on the metal. I used wet sand lightly, then buffed with a buffer, wax, buff, wet sand, wax, buff. A lot of work but mine turned out nice. Where I cant get the peeling is on the above the tire area. I use a good meguiars polish, keeps it shinny and covers it some. I was told not to use spray clear coat. It discolors really very fast. The paint under clear coat can be polished with a buffer very nicely. You have to be very careful.

 

There is no temporary solution that looks good. Get it repainted.

 

Just as a reference, this:




Became this:





http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...l-details.html


The way I look at it is, if you think it'll need a repaint anyway, then it's worth a shot.

 

Shiny oxidation?

 

Well, you're never going to make clear coat failure look perfect, but you can vastly improve it's looks.

 

Here is a single stage paint '82 Trans Am. How many folks here would have pulled out the primer rattlecan instead of saving this paint?







http://www.autopia.org/forum/click-b...ior-shine.html

 

Single stage is different than BC/CC. You can get away with it easier(to a certain extent) with single stage.

 

That's why I noted that it was single stage. The point being that I so often see folks here taking a faded and weather beaten finish and instead of restoring it, they'll reach for the can of primer or Rustoleum.

The OP has a complete cc failure. Nothing will make that look perfect beyond a repaint. But there is plenty that he can do to improve it's looks.

 

@ chaz
Wow i just saw the thread you linked. That is really good.

But unfortunately I dont have anywhere near the tools u used. Today im taking this on. I know a lot of you argue that the only solution is a repaint but as of now a repaint isnt within my budget and it looks like crap as it is so i dont have much to lose.

Ive decided not to spray anything on, im not familiar with rattle can clear coat, i do know that wet sanding and polishing can give it a clear coat finish but the polish wears off after a while.

Pretty much the only things i have to work with are
Turtlewax polishing compound
3m rubbing compound
3m 1500 sand paper
And a turtle wax orbital buffer.


I want to avoid spraying anything but i do have some perfect match GM victory red touch up paint if needed.

 

if the clear coat is just discolored and oxidized, it can buff out really good, if its peeling off, its a different story. and the turtle wax compounds are crap. they only thing turtle wax is good for, is their wax.

 

Yeah its peeling pretty bad. To the point where i can just
scratch it off. Its the outline its leaving thats pissing me off.

 

Not much you can do for peeling clear except to lay on more clear. If its just the qp doing it, take it to a shop and get a quote on fixing it. Shouldnt be more than a couple hundred to repair. If you plan on getting it repainted soon you can do a temp fix with some rattle can clear.

Youll just have to keep wet sanding untill you can feather down the edge then spray on the new clear, then wet sand and buff it. It wont last for long but its better than peeling clear.

 

Don't give me too much credit, that wasn't my work. Those were pros who posted on another website I frequent.

Wetsand with the 1500, buff with the 3M and then you have to seal it with something. Even a dirt cheap sealant like NuFinish is better than nothing. It needs to be sealed because the exposed color coat will oxidize very quicky if you don't.

 

I remember that first thread on autopia, though I hadn't seen that 'bird...thanks for sharing. It's absolutely amazing what can be done with a rotary in the hands of someone with years of experience.

 

That's what I'm talking about! A buffer and some compound. Thats what I did to mine and you will be amazed at how nice it looks! Great job

 

Started last night on this, i like how its coming out but its taking me a very long time. i can still see some of the clear coat lines so im gonna continue sanding it today. It already looks a lot better.

At one point i left some spots where i sanded off too much, but i managed to save it with some touch up paint.

As far as the sealant goes, how does that work exactly? is it a spray on? rub on? Ive never used one before.

Thanks for the help so far guys.

 

Maybe I should try this on my fender... You polished the base coat therea nd it blended with the clearcoat that well?

 

I wet sanded, then used rubbing compound followed by polishing compound. It blends okay but it depends on how well u wet sand i used 1000 grit followed by 1500, thinking i need to go rougher to really get the lines completely off.

 

the only down side to polishing the base coat is it wont stay shiny long. its meant to have a clear coat over it for protection and to get the shine.

 

Goes on and off like wax.

 

as good as it is going.. looking at you picks, I would try the polish & sealant..
if your going to do the clear coat, put several coats on with recommended flash time between, then 1000 wet, buff and polish.

 

I'll give credit where it's due, you made a nice improvement in the appearance, OP.

 

Very impressive! If you do think about putting clear over that, you'll have to get every ounce of polish off first so it will stick.

 

wax and grease remover off the shelf at the auto parts store will take care of that. just give it a few good scrubs to make sure you get it all before laying down the clear.