RS90CAMARO

I need to replace my roller and pin on my 90 camaro but I have a question. Does the pin seperate where I have it circled in the picture? Topdownsoultions sells a pin and bushing but looks like its to small unless it seperates. http://www.top-downsolutions.com/low...ler-p-148.html The pin in the picture isnt mine I just borrowed the picture, mines still on the car.

RS90CAMARO

I found a picture showing how it comes apart.

Al Hasse

Yes it does separate. Best way to do it is with a vise and some heat, you will destroy the roller when you do. I bought some lower hinges from a 3rd gen a junkyard, asked one of the machinists to separate it (the two halves of the pin) for me - he did just that and removed the whole pin from the hinge instead. After separating the two halves with a friend's vise and torch, I ended up having a another friend weld the bottom half back on the hinge body prior to installing the new roller which just presses in.

thomas1976

I was looking for some details myself

Detent roller
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...oller-pin.html
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...ling-door.html

Door hinge
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...aro/index.html
http://andyz28.com/3rdGen/installation.html
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-...-a-111097.html

Blackdog36

iTrader: (3)

This is the one step in door hinge repair that isn't spelled out too well. I am replacing both door hinges and just replaced the passenger side. I did mine with heat and it worked great. Other method I've read is to cut portion of outside collar so pin pulls out easier. Weld collar close again and press in new pin. Here is what I did.

1) used dremel to cut existing roller off of hinge pin.
2) had friend with an acetylene torch heat up the roller pin while it was still attached to hinge. Sleeve near roller pin was red hot.
3) put pin in vice grip and pound hinge away from vice with a hammer. Roller will pull out and be left in vice grip.
4) Once parts cool, press in new pin with vice grip. Do not press too far so roller does not spin freely. Friend used a 20 thousands feeler gauge and that still left a lot of play to roll freely.

I have to adjust the door a bit but the hinge kit works great. Nice and smooth door operation. Putting door back on is a pain since you have to keep adjusting all hinge bolts to get them all threaded again. I used a jack under door while a friend helped slide door into position so I could thread bolts back in.

camarotucker

iTrader: (2)

The dentent roller has a top side and a bottom side (Plastic bushing), pay attention when reinstalling. Dont ask me how I know.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Anybody know if anybody sells the lower pin that the detent roller and pin presses into?

I ended up drilling mine out after I broke the old pin off. Then I tacked the long pin to the bottom hinge.

Next time, I will find a new one.

blackbmagic

Yes, its actually easier to just cut and drill the pin out while still in the hinge. Having replaced both doors the first side came out by heating area to a cherry and then pounding a vise grip down. Second side I spent almost 45 minutes trying to pound free after it was red hot. I gave up and spend about 15 min worth of cutting and drilling to the right size. Then just tapped the new one until there was no more free play. Used some silicone lube on the roller and twisted it by hand until it moved freely this was there was 0 free play and it spun well.

I did tack the long pin to the hinge as well because there was just too much play for my liking.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

First off, YES, it's an old thread! lol...BUT

Does anyone know the part number for the detent roller/pin collar pin? The above pictured part number seems to only fit Chevy S10 trucks.

Thanks!

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Anybody?

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

I used this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Camaro-Firebird-Lower-Door-Hinge-Roller-Bushing-Pin-New-GM-/310648411603?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACamaro&hash=item48541695d3&vxp=mtr#ht_303wt_934
Hawks has the roller and pin on ebay for $15 shipped. From what I had seen, yes this is the same for older S10s.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

I know about the roller and pin...I'm talking about the collar pin it "goes into". This item:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281088537326...84.m1423.l2649

That is what I'm not sure will fit and/or is the same.

Richboll

Here's the set from Top Down Solutions


http://www.top-downsolutions.com/Bod...(non-greasable)

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

Oh that piece. Just grind the weld off the bottom of the old one, and then drill out the old pin. Press in new pin, tack weld the whole assembly back into the car.

ringo234

I had no way to do this so I had Lon from Top Down Solutions change my hinge pin for me.

SweetRide45

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I'm aware of the "solution"...but I'm questioning the replacement part - if need be. The one I posted LOOKS the same, but I have no confirmation if this is the correct part number (if it'll fit the new pin/roller assembly).

85-87IROC-LB9s

iTrader: (1)

Hello everyone, I just did mine and was very easy to remove the detent roller and pin without destroying and cutting up the whole assembly; despite both my hinges have been heavily worn (second worst next to another thirdgen I had). All that is need is a torch and a slide hammer to do the task. The trick is to cut the roller in half vertically on both sides to expose the pin, don't grind the top of the pin off to get the roller off, as that's what makes it very difficult to take off since there is nothing to grab on except the shaft. Afterwards I "modified" an adapter I have for my slide hammer to slip over the pin, so it could grab against and pull. Last, I mounted the hinge on my large vise and started to heat the collar of the pin to expand the steel, which in turn loosened the pin. The pin came out after only two pulls under 5 seconds while leaving the whole assembly intact and not cut up or welded back together . Perhaps there are other ways people tackle this task, but this is my way of doing it while keeping the whole assembly original and functional, it just takes proper strategy prior to taking on the task. Hope this helps everyone .

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

So you must have removed the whole hinge Im assuming?

85-87IROC-LB9s

iTrader: (1)

Yes the whole hinge was removed. I removed the door because it is much easier to do this task the right way. From what I've seen if either the lower or upper pins or worn, it is always going to affect the other; so I went all out on mine. This means new greasable upper pins, lower detent roller, detent spring, lower pin, door latch, striker, door bumpers, lower weather-stripping, upper roof rail weather-stripping, lock covers, and last but not least the door handle. Yup, that's a lot, but I like doing things the right way the first time, and having the door off gives me the chance to clean all that area since it was just filthy. I will post pictures soon to show everyone how that lower detent pin was removed.

Jersey89GTA

iTrader: (1)

Suscribed - doing this project myself.

3rdgenmaro

iTrader: (9)

I done it "the right way" as well. I replaced everything that did or could wear. You dont have to remove the hinge. It just takes alittle longer to remove the old stuff. You save on time realigning the door though.

Either way works fine. One is harder to align, the other is harder to do the pin work. Make your choice, take your time, and enjoy new hinges!

85-87IROC-LB9s

iTrader: (1)

Hello again everybody,

It has been months since I've posted about the lower detent roller and removing the pressed pin with a slide hammer and torch, but since then I've completed both doors months ago and both close fine. I now have the photos to show how I removed that lower detent roller and rebuilt the lower hinge. The photos are only a few taken from my entire rebuild from removal, disassembly, to sandblasting, to painting and final reassembly. One thing I should mention is that during this process I did not take the time to actually take a picture when I was heating the pin and cutting the roller in half (I was busy doing the work). Here is this link below.

http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/So...?sort=3&page=1

Let me know if there is problems accessing these photos, I'm new to photo bucket. Hope this method helps some people out.

thomas1976

Nice to see some pics of how you did it, I haven't done mine yet due to lack of time. I'm still gathering inputs when I find some, so this is very helpful, thank you!

I chose the main pics and uploaded them on here

thomas1976

Good job!

85-87IROC-LB9s

iTrader: (1)

Thanks thomas1976, I was having a hard time uploading these pictures on here from my laptop, so I put them on photo bucket. As mentioned before this is a small portion from my documentation of pictures when I removed both doors. If you all want to see the top pins I rebuilt let me know. A word of advice from the wise, if any of you remove the door from the car make sure to line up the guide bolts (Bolts on the hinges that have no adjustment), and thread them first when bolting the door back on. These bolts are critical in that they align the entire door to your car, and are the toughest ones to reach. I used a zero offset, straight ratchet wrench for the job. Even with that, the tough part is trying to start the bolt first. Try finding someone with small hands like myself to get these bolts started on the body.

TIMMYS89GTA

iTrader: (28)

haha..funny to see this posted on again..I just did a search on this subject last night and read this thread..currently have no torch in the shop so will be giving it a try with slidehammer,vise and no heat...and thank you 85-87IROC-LB9s for the reminder on lining up the upper hinge bolts..go ahead and post those upper hinge pics if ya don't mind..I will be removing the doors to do this

85-87IROC-LB9s

iTrader: (1)

No problem, I will be uploading more pictures tonight after I finish doing some refurbishment on my wheel project. If you don't have access to a torch, you can also do it with a portable butane/Nap-gas can from lowes or Home depot, just make sure to buy a striker and the attachable tip if you don't have one. This is the yellow can that burns hotter. Just remember not to grind the top of the pin, and cut the roller in half vertically(top to bottom). Just keep heating it until it gets red hot and have some one pull that pin off right away. Any issues or questions with these doors please feel free to ask.

85-87IROC-LB9s

iTrader: (1)

Hello again, just finished uploading more pictures of my work, for others to benefit from. Another reminder I wanted to share, for those removing the doors off thirdgens with any power options, there is a small retainer pin holding the power door lock, window, mirror-harness inside the door cavity. There is no way to remove it by pushing and pulling it out, it is very hard to get through with your hand and you cannot see it, the retainer has to be cut-off with a razor.

Anyways, here's the link, I'm still uploading pictures from my archive, there is just so many to post.

http://s1349.photobucket.com/user/So...?sort=3&page=1

Any questions about this job, feel free to ask.

TIMMYS89GTA

iTrader: (28)

well,just finished my driver side one...it was actually alot easier than I anticipated..I didn't cut the roller off, instead I put the roller itself into the vise and cranked it down and the roller just broke into a few pieces and fell to the floor..I then held the hinge sideways,cranked the roller pin down in the vise and just whacked the hinge next to the roller pin a few times and it slipped right out..no torch heat or cutting anything..new pin and roller I just eased back in the hinge using the vise as a press..

thomas1976

Finally found the time to install the door hinges repair kit.

I endet up cutting a tread on the pin with the die stock and a M8 die, then used an M8 nut with washers to remove the pin, no hammering the pin D is exactly 8mm.

Joe Tag

iTrader: (4)

That right there was pretty bright.