I bought "dark blue" paint yesterday. It's hard going off a chip. Anyway, this is what it looked like. I think it may be too "SMURFISH" for me. I talked to the guys at the store and they might be able to darken it a tad bit.

 

I'd stick with the original color which I believe is the one from your profile pic as well as photo #28 from your photo album?

 

I am doing a complete color change. Going with a solid color since this is my first time painting.

 

Id go a little darker myself. It does have a "smurfish" look to it sadly. Ive always been a fan of really dark blues, like almost look black blue. On a less then cloudy day they look black but then when its really sunny out they are a really pretty blue.

Kinda like this.

 

Always been a fan of the darker blues as well. Go with a non metallic monte carlo blue. Easy to find, and looks killer.

 

I like the color

 

It looks to light,more of a pastel,GO DARKER OR ORIGINAL

 

I painted my 3rd Gen Navy Blue Metallic back in 2003. Great color, lots of compliments. It needs a good repaint though, given it was done at home in my dad's shop. Someday..

 

I know! I was hoping it would darken up, not look like a member from the blue man group I'll see what they can do at the shop.

 

What's your oem paint code versus the color you chose?
I have told myself the next car I paint will be Corvette Blue.
Are you dealing with the guys @ Ohio Auto Color on Warren St or on Main in Spfld?
Shopline paint is usually dead on to the chips.

 

I don't know the paint code off the top of my head, but it's metallic blue. I wanted something blue, not to dark, not to showy. I want a solid color and went to Ohio Kolor on Warren St to look at their chips. I did buy Shopline. Code 12908, dark blue.

 

It will darken some after clear coat believe it or not if you do it within 24 hours.

 

Ok. BTW, this is 2 coats, over grey primer. Should have gone 3. The mixing stick held next to it is alot darker (like the chip).

 

Please tell me you are going to give it more coats and you are using a turbine hvlp system and not compressed air.

 

I should give it one more good coat. I am using compressed air, why?

 

Ok, I'm going to bed been up since 5 am.
Try at least one more coat and 3 coats of clear.

 

Go here
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...sprayguns.html

Call me tommorrow, 604-1235

 

Mix your clear with your last coat.

 

Definitely too smurfy. Looks cheap and an obvious color change. Go darker or go back to the original lighter shade.

I'm with UnstableAviator and WickedCrazy on this one...you really can't go wrong with 1998-02 Navy Blue Metallic. Should change colors to purple in extreme direct sunlight when it's done right.

Of course I am a little biased on this color...

 

Took the paint back to the store, and the guy says he mixed it wrong. Here is the correct color, 3 coats.

 

My 86 Z28 is this color but a little darker but I love my car color!!!!!!!! It looks black from a distance and on cloudy days but is a beautiful blue close up and on a sunny day!!!!!

 

Hey Red what color is that on your car?
Oh and i think the blue looks good

 

Ok, I am not going with the blue, it does look cheap and is too bright. How hard are the metallics to spray? This is my first time and don't want to screw the paint up too badly.

 

Why don't you get some and practice on something other than your car.

 

My Iroc is Blue. Just saying!

 

Well, I have a hood I've been using. I feel I can spray the solid color ok and don't want to get in over my head. I guess I like to play it safe sometimes. The guys at the paint store said I need to use a cross-hatch pattern. They differed on light vs heavy coats, but they agreed it takes alot of practice. I just want this thing painted and to look really nice.

 

Then without any practical experience, you should take it to a professional. If you don't want to do that, then practice....on something other than your car. Your extra hood is perfect.

 

I finally found a color. It's charcoal metallic. After practicing a bit and getting the gun adjusted, I sprayed the underside of the rear hatch, along with inside of the doors. Then I applied the clear. Came out quite well.

 

Another.

 

Put more clear on. It appears dry. The metallic dispersion appears good. The true test will be if you can keep from tiger striping it on the hood/roof (hardtop?) doors, etc.

 

Ok, thanks. How does one fix tiger striping?

 

Ideally? Don't create them in the first place. Lots of different methods to get rid of them. I prefer a couple wet coats followed by a metallic "drop" coat. Wide fan pattern 18" above the surface. Takes a bit of practice to do it properly without making a dry pass.

 

The color on my car is the original color Autumn Maple Metal Flake.

Tiger striping is a term with metal flake paint where you do not keep the metal flakes stirred in the paint being sprayed. It will collect on the outlet of your spray gun and cause that effect. The best way is to put 1/4 inch nuts in your spray gun to stir the paint while you are doing this. Take your time. Paint the hood vertically off of the car.

 

Another step I use is to clean the tip of the gun with laquer thinner and then spray the gun into a cardboard box or trash can before the next coat on the car. Another helpfull pattern is cross hatching the paint. Making sure you have enough height above the surface to do this and keep it wet to get to the other side and back to each quarterpanel.

 

Tiger striping is a mis-application of material typically in the overlapping of strokes. Fan pattern and condition of the equipment also play a key role. If the paint is properly mixed, you won't have "fall out", which is when the paint becomes less viscous and the metallic falls to the bottom. Nuts in your spray gun is lunacy and isn't necessary. I agree with cross hatching but not with painting the hood vertically off of the car. Metallics can appear mismatched if panel painted(painting the panels separately vs. assembled on the car) and should be painted as one assembly. BC/CC are better than they used to be and allow for panel painting with better matching, but I'd still be weary. A rook should paint as many horizontal panels as possible.

On a side note, the amount of odd and completely useless advice in this section sometimes makes me shudder.

 

Quote" A rook should paint as many horizontal panels as possible.

UM! That would be the HOOD! It can be removed!

Quote "If the paint is properly mixed, you won't have "fall out", which is when the paint becomes less viscous and the metallic falls to the bottom"

Thats why most Professional painters put nuts in the paint gun to keep it mixed! You stir the gun most of the time!

Quote" On a side note, the amount of odd and completely useless advice in this section sometimes makes me shudder.

Are you refering to my advice?

 

You live within 10 miles of me. Just bring the car and the paint.

 

Appreciate the offer, but the car isn't driveable and I am determined to do this myself.

 

You are still welcome to borrow my turbine system. And my help,,,,

 

Yes.

Put a 1/4" nut in a gravity feed gun without a filter and see what happens. In less than 5 seconds you'll have issues. If you need to put hardware in your siphon gun, which have been virtually phased out, then you've probably mixed the paint wrong. I've sprayed countless cars, bikes, trucks, hell, I even painted a gyrocopter, using pearls, metallics, candies, micas, et. al and never needed an agitator, let alone nuts in my gun.

These guys are attempting a very difficult task on the cheap and usually in their garage. They need solid advice that represents the accepted methods in the industry.

 

ROFLMFAO here Haps!
Let's go back to the basics. You buy a can of rattle paint. It has already been mixed, it is settled. You have to shake it and stir it to work properly. You put on the first coat. You go to lunch, come back, you shake the can before the next coat.

Now just how in the world do you stir the paint in a paint gun, no matter what kind? Very simple just like the rattle can you put nuts in it to stir the paint during usage.

They are just too big to cause a problem in any type of gun but work great to keep the paint mixed during coats.

Yes these guys are attempting to do a challenging job in their garage and Yes they can do it.

TGO is all about helping each other, not telling them that they have to take it to a professional.

BTW weren't you the one who supported my view on HVLP Systems?
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body...sprayguns.html

If you are going to bring something to the table, at least be helpfull not critical.

 

All original is better for overall value

 

Sure I supported that thread...it never mentioned putting nuts in a paint gun, and has nothing to do with this thread...nor does your rattlecan analogy. Tiger striping is a "phenomenon" almost exclusively produced because of poor technique or gun pattern and nothing to do with settling metallic which can be identified by areas of heavy metallic throughout the width of the pattern. Give 'em the good advice that has its roots firmly embedded in the industry and you won't hear a peep from me.

 

Saw this on your post.

"I need a new hobby... "

I was coming back from Evansville In. last week, I drive an 18 wheeler part time, passing an 60's Volkswagon mini bus and I was thinking Corvette Blue would make a statement there even without the horsepower.

 

You keep answering your own statements here! "phenomenon" , Ghosts, Goblins, Gremlins, Polterguists whatever. Any mistake in repainting a car is a human factor. Right down to having a drop of sweat drop off your nose on the final coat of clear coat, Been there done that,

I have given good sound advise for those able to see through the B/S ,