My '89 RS has no power locks or windows or anything. It does have the hatch release.

My cousin has an IROC slowly wasting away in his back yard. The exterior of the car is trashed,but the interior and under the hood is fine as can be,as the car only has 56k miles on it. Kinda a shame.

Anyhow,how hard would it really be to swap his power locks and windows into my car that doesnt have em? He;s being cool about it and would give me the parts for a small fee plus shipping (he lives in california,I'm in florida!). Plus I may take some parts back with me when he isnt looking when I visit next month

Ideas? Opinions? Is it worth it?

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LONG LIVE THE F-BODY!!

 

It is worth it but make sure his stuff still works(but since your gettin it for free i guess its no biggie if it dont.

it shouldnt be too hard cause your car has all the holes for the motors and such so it should all bolt it. not the easiest mod but by far not the hardest

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1983 CHEVROLET CAMARO with a 1986
305 C.I.D.V8 BORED .030 OVER
HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP
FLAT-TOP PISTONS
MILD CAM
3" CAT BACK EXHAUST W/ FLOWMASTER MUFFFLER
KEYSTONE CLASSIC WHEELS.
B&M RATCHET SHIFTER
STAGE THREE SHIFT KIT
(she'll spin em into third)

MUSTANGS SUCK

 

I just did this on a replacement door for my 83. It is really simple once you get the rivits out. Remove the rivits for the glass, and the manual window set up, unbolt the track that goes up along the right hand side and bring the entire assembly out through the large opening. Once those rivits are out it is a piece of cake, just make sure you have s drill bit for metal and not wood.
It took me about an hour and a half with beer breaks

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How about wiring it? I'm going to steal the console out of my cousin's IROC too,but what would be the best way to run the wires?

 

And what about the door locks? I want to at least put door lock motors in my car so I can hook up my Viper and have keyless entry.

 

The swap will work. It look me a day to do the swap. For the power windows I had to all new wires from the windows to the center console Don't for get to boot that fit between the door and car. Power locks are the easy. Dont forget to take the relay out of the driver side.

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90 Firebird SSA (Bone stock 3.1)

Everything Below I've added

Engine: Accel Super Coil, 8mm Accel Ignition Wires, 170 Degree Thermostat, NKG Plautum Plugs, K&N Filter, Flowmaster 80

Suspension: Bell Tech Drop Spindles, Edelbrock PanHard Bar, Lakewood Lower Control Arms, Wonderbar IROC-Z, KYB GR2 Struts, KYB Gas-a-Just Shocks, PST Suspension Polygrapite Bushings All Round, 36mm WS6 Front Sway Bar, 24mm WS6 Rear Sway Bar

Brakes: Cross Drilled and sloted Rotors

Appearance: Trans Am Tail Lights, Trans Am Wrap Around Wing, Trans Am 16" Alum rims, Tinted Windows Rear 90% Sides 50%

Interior: GTA power seats, Overhead console, Power windows, Power locks, T-tops, Sun shade, Pioneer P77DH, Uniden radar detector, Intellitronix - Fuel pressure gauge, Transmission temp gauge. (In pods)

 

Well when wiring it all up i would suggest following how it was wired in the donor car. And while your at it, just remove the wiring harness from the donor car also.

 

If you had a local source for the parts, it's probably easier to swap the entire door. But in your case taking them home as carry on luggage might be a problem.

 

Yeah I thought of that...carry on or checked? hehee