Ive heard many different reasons - Intence Heat, too thick layers

Whats the real reason bondo cracks ???

------------------
Arthur-
1985 IROC Restoration In Progress
http://www.thirdgenfbody.com/projiroc/
Member # 98 of The Las Vegas F-Body Association
www.lvfbody.com

 

It cracks because of either it is to thick or the panel was not prepared properly. Don't fear bondo though. It can be used properly and will not fail if it is done right. I don't use that brand. I use evercoat RAGE. It seems to have less problems with pinholes.

 

I use the rage too. Good stuff. Even my 1/4" thick cob-jobs hold up.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

LOL....Jim.

Bondo shrinks upon curing. Depending on the type of repair you use it on will determine it's usefulness. Example when people shave their door handles and fill the holes with bondo usually this will not hold up.

 

bondo is for amateurs. ask any body shop, they wont use it. I work at an airport doing body work on the nose bowls of planes. the best stuff is called featherlite. i just repainted my car 2 months ago, and spent the extra and used it. its some serious compound. bondo is crappo.

 

ive never heard of people taking they're door handles off and just filling the hole in with bondo before....and calling that a shave job
i could have sworn you have to make a steel filler plate and weld it in....hmmm.........

 

The problem I see here is that people are using the words differently. Bondo is a brand of filler, just like Kleenex is a brand of snot rags. Everybody calls filler "bondo". When the guys above say that Bondo sucks, I assume they mean the Bondo brand. Good filler is not only a great product, it's a NECESSITY for good body work.

------------------
The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah

 

Jim, settle down, your comparisons are hurting me (LMAO) I need one of those Kleenex's.

I will point out though that "technically" bondo is not a necessity. I have seen many excellent metal workers repair a dent with zero bondo by working and shrinking the metal.

I say technically because:
1. It is a lost art.
2. It is not cost feasible for everyday bodyshop repairs.
3. It is not realistic for hobbyist.

But it is still the method of choice for antique restorations, classic cars, etc. It is extremely costly and hard to find someone to work in this way but if you're working on cars that are worth big bucks this method of repair is worth it.