I shot my door jams with single stage loaded into a spray can at the local paint store. They look good. The paint is a synthetic enamel. It doesn't have hardener in it i guess, i'm not sure of the other differences. It doesn't have very good durability or UV protection. I figure it would be ok for door jams. My question is, can I clear coat it to make it more durable and look deeper? I got an acrylic enamel clear. Also, this stuff takes forever to dry, and its a metallic pearl, so can I let it cure for a week or so, tack it off and hit it with clear? Or do I have to scuff it first? Can I use a grey scotch brite pad? I dont want to disturb the metallic.

 

I know some of you older cats used to clear over single stage all the time back in the day...

 

this thread is a fail

 

I'm no paint expert, but I can pass on what I have heard from my paint guy. I shot my front cap with an acrylic enamel with flake in it, and have the car in for the rest of the body right now. I used hardener with it. He told me clearing over it would be no problem, other than the fact the A/E will "rob" some of the gloss from the clear to a point. It can be cut and buffed after this and will not happen again. It always will have to be deglossed for another coat to adhere. Again, not from my knowledge, but from a certified auto body tech. I figure some sort of info is better than none at all.

 

I would wait as long as possible before spraying any clear over the enamel. Also would start with thin dry coats to help prevent it from causing the enamel to wrinkle. I wouldn't scuff before applying the clear. This is just my opinion as I don't use synthetic enamel or and enamels much anymore. Basically just what I remember from using that stuff many years ago. If the paint you had mixed up is single stage then it has the UV protection built in, or should have what little there is in that cheap of paint.

 

I'm glad someone chimed in with personal knowledge. I offered my best recollection of what I was told. Just curious, why wouldnt you knock the gloss of before clear? I'd think that wouldnt give a good base to adhere to. Maybe thats why I don't do this for a living.

 

As the OP said, that stuff takes forever to dry. It's still soft enough that anything you put over it will adhere to it. Scuffing will break the top open so to speak and allow the next coat to bite in and possibly start lifting the color coats. I'd check with the manufacturer and see what they say. Probably should have said that in my first post. Good luck

 

When in doubt, check with the guy who made it. Much better idea than any forum. No offense to you white. After posting I kinda figured the gloss acting as a seal from the clear.