Hey guys, I'm leaving for my second year of college in a few days and no matter what I try I cannot get my trunk to open on my 92 GTA. If I push the trunk button it will go up, but once it hits the top of the cycle it starts going back down and I've tried pulling up on it when it hits the top. And the key wont work because it will just spin until it stops, I can turn it about 180 degrees. I did get it open with the battery disconnected, then I reconnected it and tried to shut it. It was going down slowly then I had to help it down but it didnt latch, and now no matter what I can't get it back open. If you guys could help an any way, it would be greatly appreciated!

 

As a temporary fix, I would either disconnect the battery again, or unplug the pull-down motor to pop it back open. Once you have better access to the assembly, you'll see 3 screws holding the motor onto the bracket. Unbolt them and you can manually position push it, so that the truck opens and closes with the key. It's not going to shut tight, but at least you'll be able to get in and out of it. I would also recommend calling these guys and explaining the issue. They should be able to guide you on what you need. http://www.top-downsolutions.com/hatch-pull-down-items
Disclaimer: I am by no means an expert, but that's what I did until I got all the new parts to fix it properly.

 

It sounds like the lock cylinder is not properly connected to the plastic connector and cable that allow you to use your key to unlock the hatch.The key only turns 90 degrees or the 3 oclock position to unlock. if loosen the plastic trim that covers the rear and electric latch you can pull on the black cable the normally connects to the lock cylinder to unlatch the hatch.
Once you have the hatch open the cable can be pressed back on the the lock cylinder if it is not broken. The hatch motor and latch should be moved up slightly by loosening the mounting bolts and the retightening. There is a black plastic switch where hatch catches that can be depressed so you can watch the motor lower the latch with the hatch open.
If you do a search or go to Topdown solutions site Lon has some excellent instructions on how to repair hatch motors. This includes photos of the latch motor assembly.

 

The thing is I can't get the trunk back open. The light is on like it didn't latch and I've tried pulling up on it but I couldn't open it.

 

Below is a photo of the electric solinoid and the black cable with white plastic piece that should be attached to the lock cylinder. I thought you could pull on the black cable, but tested my spare hatch motor and solinoid to open it manually like a key would.
Put a straightblade screwdriver in the slot of the white plastic piece and turn it. This should release the latch.

Are you just pulling up on the hatch from the outside or have you crawled in back and removed the large plastic trim that covers the hatch motor and the latch?

I have done this several times at the junkyard in order to get inside the back when no key is available and no battery for power to the hatch is there.

 

Here is a photo of the entire hatch motor located under the large plastic trim in the back of your car.

 

I'll try to remove that trim piece and use a screw driver, but I don't want to tear up the trim, but oh well. My uncle thought maybe need a new lock cylinder because I can turn it so far, but I'm not sure.

 

Loosen all the plastic screws and the metal ones at the top if you can get to them. if you get If you have long arms you il be able to reach up under the trim and open it.
The local junkyard may have the trim you need. If not Thirdgen ranch usually has a good selection of trim pieces.

 

You could pop the light out and have some access to the assembly to possibly pop it open.

 

i just got an 84 trans am recaro and i cant get the rear hatch open the key turns in the lock fine but i think its still locked how can i get it open

 

First, please ingnore all the helpful solutions that have been posted to-date. You have a 1991.5-92 style pull-down. So far everyone has been providing solutions for the 1986-early 91 style pull-down unit with a metal frame. Yours has a tan colred plastic frame. (See the picture)

[IMG]http://www.top-downsolutions.com/image/cache/data/Products/
907040-500x500.jpg[/IMG]

Now for the bad news. What had gone wrong is either the latch release block (plastic ramp that attaches to the back of the frame) or the lever that contacts it to rotate and unlatch the latch (more likely) are broken. Also I'll agree that it sounds like someone disconnected the cable from the backside of the lock cylinder.

How this is supposed to work: There is no hatch release solenoid on the 1991.5-92 style pull-down unit. Instead, when you press the hatch release button it starts the motor in the "up cycle". As the latch travels up the lever contact the latch release block and is rotated 90 degrees to unlatch the hatch hook. At this time a spring forces the hatch hook free of the latch. If you use a key manually the latch is immediately opened and the hatch hook is popped free. Then the motor travels up until it reaches the end of the up cycle.

Unfortunately you had a chance to diagnose and fix the problem when the unit would open for you. I suspect that the sheet metal cage that surrounds the coil spring near the latch has now bent and is keeping the latch from releasing the hatch hook.

At this point I don't have an easy solution for you. You will have to do some damage to get it open. I'd recommend using a Dremel tool to cut a big hole in the hatch surround rear trim panel to expose the pull-down unit. At this point you MAY be able to fiddle with it to get it to unlatch. More likely you'll need to unbolt the 3 bolts and get the hatch open. The 1991.5-92 style pull-down units are less prone to problems, but they are trickier to repair if they fail.

You can easily replace the rear hatch surround trim panel from a pick-a-part yard. This is why I recommend this method. If this car were in a Pick-a-Part yeard I'd have it open in 3 minutes, but the damage I do to get it unlatched is not as easily repaired.

Keep us posted on your progress. I can diagnose and repair it if you manage to get it out. I really think the entire unit is now junk and will need to be replaced. Sorry for the bad news.

Lon Salgren