My rear hatch is stuck closed and the motor is dead. The key won't engage the solenoid, the trunk release button doesn't do anything....I dunno. I was able to get the plastic beauty cover from the back of the trunk and gain access to the motor assembly. The only thing that looks out of place is one off-gray wire with a black connector that is hanging free. But, I can not find a place that it belongs. Any help would be great.

Thanks in advance

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88 Trans AM
305 TPI
WS6

96 Camaro
3.8L V-6
SCCA GSP Class Terror

 

i have the same wire hanging so dont sweat that. if you turn your key clockwise enough in the lock then it should pop,even if there is no power. after getting it open, check for power using a voltmeter. but my theory is,since the remote pop doesnt work, and the motor doesnt work, then your fuse popped.

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You can open it from the inside, you'll see a little rectangle about 1/4" by 1/8" on the driver side of the lock mechanism. stick a flat head screwdriver or a needle-nose pliers in and turn it, it will open it. As for why the key doesn't open it, take off the selanoid and see if the lever is going down when you turn the key, if not, you have to remove the cable from the lock tumbler, turn the yellowish plastic piece and pull at the same time, once it's off, stick the screw driver in the rectangle and rotate it 180 degrees, put it back on the tumbler and it should pull the lever down when you turn the key, if it does, put everything back together, "latch" the lock with a screwdriver and try the key. as far as I know it's purely mechanical, the release selanoid is just an added bonus and doesn't have to work for the lock to work (mine's not even hooked up). This should hold you until you can get a replacement motor, but make sure to disconnect it so there's no chance of it getting stuck in the up position.

 

nice info

 

HEHEHE, can you tell I've had this problem recently?

 

This is interesting information. Unfortunately, mine is stuck in the OPEN position....

I have used bungee cords to hold it somewhat shut...

Is there a manual way to get the thing closed?

 

I have had mine get stuck when I pop the hatch & as it goes up re-latches & starts to suck it down. If I re-release it at the wrong point(while going down), I can't get it to re-latch.

There is a little finger inside that you can push on to tell it to go all the way down. Then it will rebound & come all the way up.

John

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87 Formula 5.1 TPI Auto Modified (Yellow/Black)

87 Formula TPI (5 Speed) Yellow/Gray STOCK

14.8sec 1967 Buick Riviera
1990 Buick Riviera (driver)
83 Camaro
83 T/A

 

Remove the push nut on the pin that connects the motor assy to the latch assy. Remove the 3 screws attaching the plastic motor housing to the frame. Remove the screw holding the switch (p/n 20614880) to the motor. Rocking motion to get the switch free of the terminals on the motor. Remove the two screws connecting the plastic motor housing (p/n 20160581) to the motor. Now you can manually turn the gear nut (p/n 20160587) to lower the rod that is raised and lowered by the motor. Motor p/n 22021675. The cable that is acted on by the key tumbler to open the latch manually is p/n 20614881. I don't know how many of these parts GM sells separately. But the entire assy is (86-87, p/n 16600049) (88-91, p/n 16604066) and very pricey. BTW, the guides never had a p/n assigned to them, yet always break. I have machined drop-in replacement guides from solid nylon. A kit of four guides, a new push nut and detailed illustrated instructions is $12.50. E-mail me if interested in getting some. Sorry, I incorrectly described them as working on 85-92, they are for 86-91 pull-down units. Good luck, Lon. http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/topdownso....dir=/Top-Down %2bSolutions%26.src=ph%26.view=t

[This message has been edited by lonsal (edited November 06, 2001).]

 

To help me understand what the problem may be:

1) The last time that I opened the hatch, I noticed that it was very slow to respond (I have fairly new lift struts and it usually lifts quickly).

2) When I went to close the hatch, the motor didn't turn on when the contacts on the hatch were closed.

3) It appears that the motor never raised when I opened the hatch. The motor is still recessed where it normally would raise when the hatch is opened.

4) When I depress the console-mounted switch to "release" the hatch, I can hear the latch actuate. I just don't hear any action from the motor.

Is the above post suggesting that the hatch mechanisms are confused and I simply need to "tell" it to raise and I should be OK? Or am I mis-understanding something? I would love to hear that it is "confused" and I really don't have to buy/replace a bunch of stuff.

 

"1) The last time that I opened the hatch, I noticed that it was very slow to respond (I have fairly new lift struts and it usually lifts quickly)."

Should have no effect on the operation of the unit. It was just released from a lower point than normal (because the unit didn't raise up). The hatch was closer to over-center so it took more force to raise the hatch from this position. A symptom, not a cause.

"2) When I went to close the hatch, the motor didn't turn on when the contacts on the hatch were closed."

Those "contacts" you mention have NOTHING whatsoever to do with the hatch pull-down unit. They are for powering the HMSL (High Mount Stop Light aka third brake light). When the hatch is up the HMSL will not light. It only lights when the hatch is closed and the contacts are completing the circuit with the pad below. There is a small switch protruding from the left side of the latch in the valley where the pull down hook contacts the latch towards the rear of the car. When this switch senses the hook from the hatch it powers the assy down. When it reaches the bottom of the stroke a tab on the unit contacts another switch and shuts off the power.

"3) It appears that the motor never raised when I opened the hatch. The motor is still recessed where it normally would raise when the hatch is opened."

From this description the latch assy is stuck in the "down" position, not the "up" position as you described before. You should be able to slam the hatch and get it to latch. But that is a lot of stress on the pull-down assy and will eventually damage the plastic motor housing where it mounts to the frame.

"4) When I depress the console-mounted switch to "release" the hatch, I can hear the latch actuate. I just don't hear any action from the motor."

OK, this is energizing the latch release solenoid. That means you are getting power to the solenoid. But this gets power separately from the pull-down motor.

"Is the above post suggesting that the hatch mechanisms are confused and I simply need to "tell" it to raise and I should be OK? Or am I mis-understanding something? I would love to hear that it is "confused" and I really don't have to buy/replace a bunch of stuff."

Yes. Sometimes that switch can get stuck in the closed position. If it hasn't opened (which should happen once it no longer is in contact with the hatch loop) then it should send power to the motor and raise the assy. Something important that you haven't mentioned so far. Is your rear hatch light working? This gets power from the same source as the motor. The power for it actually comes through that switch at the latch I described earlier. I bet your light never came on either. Why? Lack of power to the assy or lack of power from the switch. Pull off the plastic shroud covering it, get out your multi-meter and do some investigation. Let us know what you find. I hope this helps, Lon.

 

To Lon and all others -

Flicking the little "finger" in the hatch mechanism made it raise to the normal position when the hatch is open. Then, when I closed the hatch, it pulled it closed as it should.

Words cannot express my happiness and appreciation. I had visions of doom.

Thanks to all!

 

Glad I could help. 8^)