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HELP! Rear Hatch stuck

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Old Nov 21, 2001 | 11:00 AM
  #1  
blu83camaro's Avatar
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From: Norfolk, VA USA
HELP! Rear Hatch stuck

Hey, new to this as I just got my 83 Camaro a week ago. The rear hatch worked just fine, then I closed it and it won't open again. I only have the ignition key, no door lock key, and I can hear the remote hatch release "clicking" in the rear of the car. Any ideas?

TIA

Matt
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Old Nov 21, 2001 | 11:08 AM
  #2  
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If you don't have the Key for the locks, you might as well bust the lock and get new locks all around. Take a flat blade screw driver and a big hammer and drive it though the lock and then you can turn the lock with the screw driver. You end up with a broken lock but it really doesn't matter f you don't have a key! :d
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Old Nov 21, 2001 | 11:13 AM
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blu83camaro's Avatar
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Thanks, figured I'd try the less Cro-Magnon approach, I was gonna drill the lock out but the screwdriver idea sounds better.

Matt
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Old Nov 21, 2001 | 11:17 AM
  #4  
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From: Hacienda Heights, CA
Car: 90 RS 'Vert, 88 IROC-Z, 88 Firebird
Engine: 305 ci tbi, 305 ci tpi, 350 ci tpi
Transmission: WC-T5, WC-T5, 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.27, 3.27
Crawl back there and remove the plastic trim panel. See if you can pop it then with a screwdriver from the inside. Once you've got it free have a locksmith make you a new key. It SHOULD be the same as your door key unless someone changed it. So what, you don't lock your car either?? Be sure to post your address online. We might need some parts. LOL

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[This message has been edited by lonsal (edited November 21, 2001).]
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Old Nov 21, 2001 | 11:55 AM
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
It's possible that the power release is working. What sort of condition are the struts for the hatch? If they are shot, the hatch wont pop up from the latch. Try havin someone pull up on the hatch while you hold the release button.

[This message has been edited by Mikes86SC (edited November 21, 2001).]
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Old Nov 21, 2001 | 12:44 PM
  #6  
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From: Indianapolis IN
Also make sure the hatch pulled all the way down and then try to get it to come back up. That happened with me yesterday. If you hear the click, then you someone else should be able to pull it up. Also the pinion in the bottom of the motor will bind with age since it's only plastic, so sometimes hitting that part will release it. It's a little plastic bubble on the bottom of the motor.
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Old Nov 21, 2001 | 01:43 PM
  #7  
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From: Doghouse ······································ Car: 1989 Formula 350 Vert Engine: 350 L98 Transmission: 700R4 Axle/Gears: B&W 3.27
Car: 87 Formula T-Top, 87 Formula HT
Engine: 5.1L TPI, 5.0L TPI
Transmission: 700R4, M5
Axle/Gears: Sag 3.73, B&W 3.45
He has an 83, I do not think he has the auto pulldown. I thought 86/87 was the first year for those.

As for crawling into the hatch area & removing the panel, forget it, unless you want to break your panel, there are usually 2 screws on the top (in the middle) from the factory.

Make sure your battery has a good full charge, and then try it. Or try with the engine running. Mine will work as long as it is in park.

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14.8sec 1967 Buick Riviera
1990 Buick Riviera (driver)
83 Camaro
83 T/A
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Old Nov 21, 2001 | 01:49 PM
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Since you're working with an 83, your car doesn't have the power hatch pulldown, the only electrical part back there will be the solenoid that temporarily opens the latch.

Since you don't have the door key, your best bet would be to obtain one. There are really only a few ways to do this. First if you have the GM key codes you could order keys from a GM dealer. That is assuming you still have the factory lock cylinders. Second you can trash the locks and replace them all with new pieces. Not really a bad idea since the locks and key(S) are probably pretty worn. Third you can remove a door lock cylinder and take it to a locksmith and they can disassemble the lock and code cut a key for it. Otherwise you could drive the car to the locksmith, they may be able to do it on the car. It would be nice if you could take the lock cylinder for the glove box, ttops, trunk, etc to the locksmith since the door cylinders are a bitch to get at, but the only locks with the full compliment of tumblers are the doors. The other locks will only have 1-3 tumblers.

Chances are your hatch has a couple of things that are giving you grief, the supports could be dead, the latch could need to be cleaned and oiled, etc. If everything is working correctly, when you push the hatch release switch the hatch should pop and go all the way up to an open position.
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