I have designed a very cool replacement door hinge pin & bushing set to replace the old worn out factory hinge pins.
This can be done without a bodyshop. In about 2 hours per door. No more slamming the door,or lifting it up to close it. Both of my cars ('82 Z28/'86 IROC) had this problem. I just got tired of my door rubbing the body,and ground effects. It is nice to have the door close like new again.
So just to satisfy my curiosity. How many of you have the "sagging door" problem??

------------------
82Z 305 w/comp 270 magnum cam,Edelbrock Performer RPM,Holly 1850-4,serpentine belt drive.TH700R4 w/B&M holeshot 2000 converter,& megashifter.1LE front brakes, 9bolt 3.27 w/1LE rear brakes.Aluminum driveshaft,boxed rear susp.poly everything,IROC swaybar+wonderbar. 70mph@2200rpm ASE Master Tech plus L2
also recently obtained a
'69 chevelle SS396 w/Turbo 400,3.31 posi,11.0 to 1, headers,etc. Latest project car,'86 IROC stock 305TPI hit on left side,but not too bad

 

I have this problem, but (like I've said on previous posts) I break out into a cold sweat everytime I look at it... Something about this "project" scares the hell out of me.

 

<raises hand>

I have the sagging door problem

------------------
'82 Z28
LG4 305 .030 over, performer intake, holley street avenger 670, xe 256 cam, tes headers, 3 inch single exhaust, spintech muffler, 14 x 3 inch drop base k&n.

 

I’ve got the same problem too.

Andy I’ve read your other posts on this issue. If you ever plan on making a replacement pin and bushing kit I’d be very interested. Great Job!

 

You should pay to be an advertiser man I see what you are doing. You are seeing how many people will buy this cool little setup from you if you were to make more of them. I'll take a set

 

I will definetly buy a set if it works and takes less than two hours. I can't stand the noise from the doors rubbing on the ground effects.

h

------------------
=Scott=
85 Iroc
96 Impala SS

 

Count me in.

 

Me too. Replaced the lower pin but still sags and rubs.

------------------
87 TA, 305 TPI, Custom CAI, ACCEL 8mm wires,ACCEL Super-coil, ACCEL Plugs, JET TPI Airfoil, Cherry Bomb Muffler
"35 yr old helo pilot
with a cool new toy my 17 yr old son wants"
The Phoenix Project..click to see my project car
Trans Am stuff and GIRLS, GIRLS, GIRLS!!!!!

 

Count me in as well if you're interested in doing it. I need 'em.

 

I have the sag in both my 89 Camaro and 89 Formula. If you've figured out a way to totally replace the hinges w/o the use of a body shop, well then speak up more. Im sure there are TONS of people with the same problem

 

Oh yeah! Still waiting....

------------------
87 GTA 350 TPI, 700R4,
K & N, Accel cap/rotor/wires, SLP airfoil, ported plenum

 

You had better not be teasing. I have this problem too. If you make them, I will buy some.



------------------
Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28
350, T-5, K&N, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust, Dynomax Bullet Mufflers, T&R Motorsports custom air intake, Bald tires

 

My door sags too.

 

I had originally thought of this as a chassis geometry problem solution. Not so much of a body/appearance interior issue. But I have now seen it as such! Please see my posts under the chassis/suspension board, "SFC's....do they really reduce rattles?" It may help http:www.thirdgen.org/messageboard/Forum15/HTML/003020.html

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 23, 2001).]

 

Here is a fix that my friend KlayBurn came up with.

heh
i just got dont fixing my doors last night...
we thought it was gonna be hinges and stuff like that, but it turns out after we got the door off, it was just the pin and bushing!

well off to advanced we go, and what do you know, damnit, they gotta order that part, well that sucks, everyone else and there mom had to order it, but Autozone, told us we had to bring the door up there for them to tell us! Well toss the door in my bro's CVS cargo van, off for a little road trip, well to sum that up it was a big was te of time, we are still partless, and its rounding 7pm...

This is where it gets good
heh

off to my local hardware store...

after leaving after spending like $5(and, if i had a pic of it, better than any pin and bsuhings you could toss in there) we had some brass bolts, some brass bushings, and a few other stupid things that im takin back...

heres what we did...
the door is off, and the hinges are off, after cutting the old pin and bushing out, we cut the bolts we got, because they was a little too long, used a wire brush and cleaned up a little where the hinges attached and where the pins and bushings went, had to drill the holes for the pin a little bit bigger to compensate the bolt, then we took the bushings, cut them, and shaved some of them off to fit where the old bushing was, then greased them up a little bit, put the bolt thru, put on a washer, put the bushing on, and tightened them in with some special steel nut thing, i dunno i aint a technical guy, and put the door back on...haha, if you plan on doing this yourself, this part is a B*TCH!@#$ Definately much easier with 2 people, and a 2x4, a car jack with a board on it, and some time well, we got the door back on and everything, and, there went from having a lot of play, the bottom of the door was sagging really bad, to no play at all, and the crazy thing is, we didnt do **** to the bottom hinge! ah, it was so nice, my door doesnt scrap anymore, and i also tightened my door handle, found out the bolt fell off, and the other was loose, tightened those down, threw a new bolt on, good to go...

its like ive gotten a new door =)

heh, i dont care what you guys think, it works, and im acually surprised, and it was a cheap as hell fix, plus those bolts are about twice as big as those pins where, so hopefully ill be good to go for a while...if she goes down again, im just getting new hinges and all that stuff then...

i want your opinions, good or bad...



------------------
If its not a camaro or corvette then what is it really?

 

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 30, 2001).]

 

I would say good. But I can't see what your talking about as far as parts. My drivers door is the worse, but I want to change both pins. I will probably get my car painted next year, so I might wait untill then to fix this.



------------------
Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28
350, T-5, K&N, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust, Dynomax Bullet Mufflers, T&R Motorsports custom air intake, Bald tires

 

OK .... so ... couldn't you get a pin and bushings (from autoparts store) for a different car that is longer and larger in diameter than the orignal door pin/bushings ... then cut off the orginal pin, drill out the holes, and install the new bushings and pin? Would this work? Why wouldn't it?

 

I'm sure that their are many ways to correct the problem of sagging doors on third gen F-bodies. Some of these can undoubtedly be very inexpensive. I believe that mine is simply the easiest,and fastest way to deal with this annoying problem.
Why wait until it is time to paint your car,to correct the sagging doors. Do it now! I was going to wait also. But the fact of having to slam the door each and every time was driving me crazy.

 

so i kind got lost somewhere along the way, sorry guys...

Andy, did you already post your solution to the 'saggin door' issue? if you're not going to produce any hardware, can you let us know on what the easiest way to do this is? thanks.

------------------
'86WS7
Ram Air...
*EiyseWhite*

 

Yes, I am in the process of producing a limited number of hinge pin&bushing sets. Enough to 25 upper door hinges. From what I have seen here,they are all spoken for. I'll have to see about getting more made tomorrow.
I can get more of course. It's just the time frame that I am concerned about. 3 weeks or so. I can promise eveyone that they will be pleased with them. Thanx,ANDYZ28

 

I'm interested also. I've replaced one upper hinge and just sold the lower hinge since all I needed was the pin and bushing for it, a buddy of mine fixed an upper hinge with a pin and assorted parts but I had the new GM hinge so we changed mine instead. Now I'm changing doors and this hinge needs work as well so suffice it to say I'm interested in whatever you have to say or enlighten us with on this particular subject..LOL Take care now.

 

Those of your who are interested in my replacement upper door hinge pin&bushing set? Send $64.80 (shipping included). To:Andy L. Sherrer
14000 Key Deer Drive
Midlothian,Va.23112-6108
This will provide the parts to repair one (1) upper door hinge,and instructions.

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 24, 2001).]

 

Andy,

Before I send you the money for this kit, I have a couple of questions:

1) Will I be modifying the door or car to install this kit? When I say this, I am asking if I will be drilling things out or doing things that cannot be "undone" if I wanted the car to be stock to a "car show" degree.

2) You say that the kit comes with instructions. Are they pretty detailed? I suppose you understand that if someone dumb (maybe me) gets the instructions, gets halfway through the process, then can't figure the rest out, you'll have some unhappy souls to deal with...

Really, I am just trying to understand what I am getting myself into...

 

Yea, I'd like some more info, too. No that I dont trust you, you seem to have a decent rep. on the board, but I dont want to go spending 64 bucks on some mystery part. Thanks.

 

These folks have got a good point Andy, and generally I don't like buying anything without the opportunity to see it by itself and assembled first. If I remember correctly, the price is the same or a little more than a brand new GM upper hinge as well. You might want to touch on a few of these thoughts to win some confidence as we all are very interested. Take care now

 

$64 Vs $5

???

Really Im just checking to make sure my sig is right


Just ignore this.

------------------
92 Camaro 305 TBI Automatic
https://www.thirdgen.org/rides/index.tgo?action=view&rideid=6100]

 

I have a digital photo of an installed replacement hinge pin.Can someone post it for me? I'mn sorry but I do not know how to do this yet. Also,I know some one who has an '83 Camaro with the worst case of sagging doors that I have ever seen.I am going to use this as a "project car". I will do the installation myself. And take detail photos along the way.
We have just shelled out the money today (I had to actually pay someone to help me) to set up a website that is still in development. This website stuff is way over my head. I am a nuts&bolts guy. So I had to pay someone to help me out.
Try this out. But remember we are still working on it. I should have the project car photos in about 2-3 weeks.


[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 24, 2001).]

 

Alright man, sounds good.

 

The "repair" consists of removing the factory upper hinge pins&bushings.Then installing my pins&bushings. Thanks,
I have an "installed" photo if someone can volunteer to post it for me?
Thanx,ANDYZ28


[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 30, 2001).]

 

edit

[This message has been edited by johnyIROC (edited November 04, 2001).]

 

i'll be more that happy to post it, send pic to tpifbody57@hotmail.com

------------------
'86WS7
Ram Air...
*EiyseWhite*

 

here are the pics:

1)


2)


andy...

------------------
'86WS7
Ram Air...
*EiyseWhite*



[This message has been edited by j166a99 (edited October 26, 2001).]

 

Thanx,j66a99. One of these days i'll figure out how to do that. ANDYZ28

 

very easy, mail me if you want to know how.

------------------
'86WS7
Ram Air...
*EiyseWhite*

 

I don't mean to post this with an ego but, i do body work for a living and that's about the silliest thing i've seen in a while. $64??????? Your kidding right?

Brass bolts? Long lasting i'm sure.

Threaded? So how many times before it backs off and the bolt falls out and the door really drops. And how about the thread biteing into the bushing everytime you open and close the door. Is your crankshaft threaded, or is it smooth? You could at least put a double nut on it.

You'll be lucky to get 5000 miles out of that.

I never respond to threads like this but this one has me POed.

I think it's great that you fixed your car and post you experience to others here. But you make it sound like you discovered air. Baiting everyone along and then presenting everyone with a hack job kit and have the nerve to ask $64 for it?

Everyone, follow Pied Piper if you wish, but think about the design and why it was made the way it was from the factory. Do it right, or don't bother. The originals went what, 10-20 years?

My car is coming up on 20 years old, original pins and bushings, no drop, why?.....I spray greese on them every oil change.

By the way, take the door off?....Rookie. (ego)



------------------
Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
Painter @ Chevy dealer
GM junkie

 

I will say,thank you for a new point of view.

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 30, 2001).]

 

Sorry, misread.

For $64, go to a body shop, have a seat in the waiting room, read a few articles in a magazine, and drive away with clean uncut hands. $64 will get the whole door done BTW.

A guy who works for me can do it in about 20 minutes.

 

A body shop can repair the upper door hinges on a third gen F-body car in 20 minutes?Thanks

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 30, 2001).]

 

Well not just any body shop, but the guy i have at mine can. But, he's worked at either a Pontiac dealership or a Chevy dealership for the past 15 years. I've worked with him at both for 7. It takes me about 45 minutes. We have the tools to do it. Bottom line. It's about imposible without the right tools. Well, not imposible, but a PITA. Without the right tools, people will resort to taking the door off and putting bolts in, instead of pins or taking the door off and taking it for a road trip, something silly like that.

I charge 1 hour labor @ $40 per/hr. That leaves $24 for parts and tax. That's enough i'd say.

Really Andy, your a moderator, it's alright to sell sell $3 worth of hardware and a half baked idea for $64 on this site?

I still want to know what happens to a threaded bolt spinning inside a bushing does after it's open and shut a few hundred times or more.

I'm dissapointed that a ASE mechanic does'nt put a double nut or a cotter pin on that mess.

Kudo's for sharing a DIY idea for someone who does'nt have the cash to get it fixed. Is'nt that what this site is all about? But you want $64 (more than it would cost to have it done right by someone else) for some scrap hardware, whoever buys them has to do it themselves, and in the end, it's a hack job and your hinges are ruined.

To answer your questions above, no, my shop can't do upper hinges on an F-body in 20 minutes. My bodyman, Bob, can do uppers and lowers in about twenty minutes without taking the door off the car.

And no, your not wasting peoples time, your tring to steal their money.

I see this turning into a pissing match, and i have too much respect for this site to do that.

The only reason i even responded to this thread is because,

YOU TRYING TO RIP THESE GUYS OFF!

Have a nice life.



------------------
Kenney
82 Trans Am WS7 notchback
83 Trans Am WS6 T-tops
Painter @ Chevy dealer
GM junkie

 

My camaro has really bad doors, i contacted the GM dealer and found that i could not buy new pins for the hinges and that new hinges would cost me around $71. I was under the impression that a new door pin kit made from superior quality (aerospace quality???) pins would be much easier and cheaper than have a bodyshop fit new hinges? What does your body shop do in 20 mins and less than £64? I'm interested!!!

Andy Webb.
(andypwebb@yahoo.com)

 

OK,Thank you for your input.

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 30, 2001).]

 

Look guy's forget all that. What I did "that worked" is i got a hydrolic jack put a
piece of 4x4 on it and jacked up the door
about 4 inch up, held it ther for 5 min lowerd it and and that was it. Dont belive
me then try it and you will see...

------------------
86 T/A L98 with T-5(orig an LG4)
Hooker headers
Performer RPM intake
holley 750cfm carb
cast iron 76cc heads with
2.02-1.60 valves
B&M ripper
Richmond 4.10's
Flowmaster
9.43@74mph 1/8 mile.

 

So perhaps we could just bend the door,or door hinge slightly to restore the original fit.

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 30, 2001).]

 

No I think the hinges would bend before the door would. Its just reversing the effects of gravity. IMO.

------------------
91 Z28 5.7l Camaro
T-56,McLeod Street Clutch, Cross Drilled Brakes, KYB's,AFPR, 3.73 Gears, Borla Adjustable Cat Back, Hypertech Chip, Hooker Headers.
more to come....
My 91 Z28

 

So the original door alignment can be restored,without using any parts.
The door hinges,especially the uppers are an important part of the body structure.The unibody,or "monocoque" construcion of 3rd gen F body cars is designed so that the doors,and even the windshield are actually a part of the body support structure.To test this yourself.Have a friend ride with you,open both doors slightly.Now very slowly drive over a parking lot speed bump diagonally.You will notice that the body moves in relation to the doors.If the doors hinges are worn,or worn out,then this same movement exists while you drive.Only you don't notice it because the doors are closed.This is a big reason for the roof cracks on the hardtops.Even cars with subframe connectors have this movement,but to a much lesser degree.Its kinda like the sides of a cardboard box being being cut out,then reattached at the front and rear with strips of tape.The integrity of the box have been compromised,and it is now free to flex and move depending on how the loose the sides are.I hope this analogy has been helpful to explain this important issue.
My replacement hinge pins & bushings are held to one thousanth of an inch(.001") pin to bushing clearance.
It is important to keep the hinges tight no only because the doors sag,and drag against the body but to prevent the body from cracking.Other wise the cars are actually falling apart while we drive them.But we don't see it because it happens very slowly out of sight.Until one day it's too late!That's what nearly happened to me.I was scraping the old undercoating from the front wheel wells.Then I saw lots of cracking.I hope I have been of some help. Thanx,ANDYZ28

[This message has been edited by ANDYZ28 (edited October 30, 2001).]

 

Let's not let this post get personal. The only reason I've left it alone is because Andy has permission from Dirk.

As for the fix, until I know what parts your selling, $64 sounds steep. I'd like to see a testimonial from a long time member before I'd make a judgement. I'd also like to think that you're using a shoulder bolt to go thru the bushing, otherwise like mentioned, the threads will eat that bushing in no time.

Keep it peaceful. Thanx to '82 for his info and thanx Andy for your time and effort.

 

I'm looking for a solution, and would be willing to pay a lot more than 64 dollars for a good one....but a good one will not involve a threaded rod of any sort. The guy that can't spell seems to have a better idea, but I'm not excited about drilling my hinges. The last time I took a door off, I remember saying "I have to remember to never do this sheet again."

 

LOL


------------------
Clem
SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
-------------
1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)

 

Thank you for your reply.