1.Hi there, i was asking my self, if i put a sub frame connector in my car and a struts tower brace, what difference can i see on the road normally and when i push??

Yes my car is t-top .... I am using my car only on the road, not as a dailydrive, with normal 245/50/16 road tire and WS6 package. My plan is to prepare the car for a buit road car with 300 350rwhp capacity.

2. I've seen those subframe connector (S&W's) which are "bolt on" and then i will weld them... There the link http://www.swracecars.com/store/82-9...71=40-600.aspx.

3. Im looking for a good looking, clearing tpi system, struts tower brace, does anywone make some for 3gen car ?


4.Last one :P, I was wondering, if a can put a brace, in the car, just behind the back seat (in the trunk) where the hatch store is fix ? good bad idea ?

Thx for ur time

 

SFC's are always a good idea on a T-Top car. After I installed mine, I had a lot less creaks and rattles. My tops used to squeak every time I went up my driveway from the street…no more. It tightens things up.

As far as a support for the rear of the car…I assume you're talking about between the shocks? Newer cars like my Challenger could benefit from it, since it has a IRS….Thirdgens don't. AFAIK, not needed.

 

Thx for the info.
Where can i find a good looking after market struts tower brace that will clear the tpi system ??

 

BMR, UMI, Summit Racing... search on the internet.

 

Alston's are real nice, you can do both, bolt them in or weld in. Just note some of those use your stret car events, weld in ones push you up into race car class.

I have both front and rear strut/shock tower braces.

front was the $25 Jamex bar that went around the board, rear is a front for a 95-98 eagle talon

Here's how I see it, if you cut your floor in the rear for a fuel pump hatch door, they will all say your going to weaken your car, its gonna lose strength, you ruined it.

If you ask about a rear STB, all you hear is how strong that area is and it will do no good.

So all the strength is down to some thin sheet metal, so ill add a bar for $12 to counter my FP door, everyones happy.

rear seat still latches


https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/v6/3...-rear-stb.html

 

I'd suggest after market strut mounts before, or in conjunction with, the STB.

JamesC

 

Gotta say, it's the first time I've ever seen a bar in the rear on a Thirdgen!

 

You'll notice that there are a lot less creaks, squeaks and rattles.

I've got a UMI brace on mine with the stock strut mounts. It bolts right in to the existing studs. Only clearance issue was with the hood. An extremely small amount of metal had to be cut from the hood bracing for it to shut properly.
I've got UMI SFCs on my car, they are very high quality pieces. They also tuck up nicely underneath the GFX.

I wouldn't hesitate to put these on another car.

 

Will this be helpfull or not ?

 

Thx everyone for the feedback

 

no idea, only cost $12 so I did it......... not gona hurt anything.


Can tell ya the biggest changes I felt were from fully welding the interior and the Alston SFC...... Welding made it solid, Alston's made it rock solid...

like a gokart, you are one with the road, and can feel a dime when you run over it.