I've started restoring my 1989 Formula. I've had it for 13 years. And I need my but kicked for letting it get in this shape. It was a really clean car when I stopped driving it. I'm repairing the rust by cutting out the rusted metal and replacing it with new metal. On the passenger side front corner of the hood I cut out about a 3"X5" piece of rusted sheet metal. I guess I wasn't waiting long enough between spot welds. Or I wasn't spacing them out far enough. The original hood part of the sheet metal warped a little bit. Is there any way to fix it without cutting it out and replacing it as well? Does the dry ice thing really work or is it a waist of time?? It's getting really close to the crease line in the hood. All advise will be appreciated.

 

Yes, it can be fixed...

You'll need a hammer and dolly kit, plus you'll have to know how to use the properly.
You may also need a torch to heat and shrink the metal...I prefer heating, and using compressed air to shrink bubbles.

Suggest you head over to autobodystore.com, do some searching.

Many of the hotrod site also have some great metal workers...tips galore.

I'd also look for a basic autobody repair book, something along the lines of "autobody repair for dummies" ...nothing personal, many DIY books are called that, as they are geared for beginners and show the basics nicely.

 

I picked up this book. Was interesting but I would suggest practicing on scrap panels first.

 

Thanks Guy's. I beat it up with my body hammer a little bit last night. It helped some. But since that area of the hood is doubled layered. I cant get behind it to back it up. I noticed that it's an area that was repaired before with body filler. I ordered that book from Amazon. "Thanks" I've restored hot rods before. From the engine work to the interior. But I've never welded sheet metal in to make repairs before. I've got a long way to go on this project. I'm sure you will be hearing from me again. I'm also swapping the 89' TPI 305 with a 90' Corvette L98. After receiving the Vette engine harness and all. I discovered that 90' was a transition year for corvette's from MAF to MAP. The ECM is completely different. Also as it stands 99' was a transition year for Firebird and Camaro TPI systems all together. So it's been very interesting all together to say the least. But, I'm learning. I'm used to low tech carbureted hot rods.

 

The area that warped had a thin layer of filler over it. Do you think that may have contributed to the warping? It's going to be a a pain to get that crease in the hood back. I'll probably have to do it with filler. What do you think?

 

Sometimes, that's all you can do...but, you should always wire wheel out all filler in the area you're working on...it (the filler) didn't have anything to do with warpage...just your procedure for tacking it in.

You have ...one issue you have is the inner structure, so unless you take it out so you can get your hammer and dolly on it just after the weld, you're always going to get some warpage.

In some cases, the main intent it to get the rust out, and stop it from growing, a little filler isn't that big a deal...that's why they make it

 

Remember to use reinforced filler , that area will crack easily with plain filler.

 

Thanks. Any particular brand or type you'd recommend?

 

In the old days of laquer and enamel paint, we would put the filler on bare metal, after scuffing it up.
But many manufactures of primers, now suggest putting the primer down first, the filler.

I'd check with the primer manufacturer you're going to use for it...probably an epoxy primer, or etching primer..etc..

 

The only primer I have right now is 2K urethane.

 

I use epoxy primer on the metal then filler. Best for corrosion protection. Some people claim you can't get a good enough bond to the primer, but if the primer is at the compatible state or properly prepped, bonding is not a problem.
I like the Evercoat line of fillers, tiger hair (long strand) and kitty hair (short strand) are their reinforced (with fiberglass) products. I also use the 3m products with no problems.