I posted this question in my build thread but since it's body related I figured I'd get some more input here.

Build thread is here (post number 110 page 3):
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/memb...n-91z-ls1.html

So I have a 3" fiberglass cowl hood from Harwood, and I'm having an issue with the hood to fender gap. It's just too big:




Any ideas on how I can correct this?

No I can't move the fenders in because the front bumper determines the width of the fenders and you can't narrow the front bumper.

I fixed my fender to door gap issue by welding and reshaping:





Is this what I'll have to do the hood with fiberglass??

 

I used to have a Harwood hood on my 92 Z28 after a small fender bender that popped the hood off its inner structure I trashed it in favor of a steel cowl hood made by Goodmark. the Harwood hood was the worst fitting hood I've ever seen on a car. Without major work just to fit it in the beginning it would not fit. The gaps I had were just like mine so Harwood has not changed. It was an OK 50 foot hood and then on the road at any speed above 50 it raised up on the drivers side about 1/4" and vibrated in the wind stream I was sure it would come off at high speed. I do not like the hood pins so that was not an option. I will never own another Harwood product for my car, there are too many other manufacturers who build a better product. The Goodmark hood in my avatar is the Goodmark. Fit and finish is like a factory hood although it is heavy it's no heavier than the factory hood. Plus it is rock solid no vibrations. Before I spent any time on a $400 POS like that I would buy a Goodmark and call it a lesson learned.

 

I appreciate the input, and I'm starting to agree. Was going to start work on the hood this weekend but I'm going to focus on the drivers side fender and other body prep. I'm going to email Harwood to see what their opinion is before I start modifying the hood.

Until then I'll be looking for a deal on a steel Goodmark hood.

Sucks man, I really want to keep the fiberglass hood.....

 

Yeah I loved the light weight hood but the body shop I took the car to recommended the Goodmark and advised me the issue is not just with Goodmark. They all have their issues. He said Goodmark is as close to factory as you can get.

 

I have a harwood hood also so I'll chime in. I think the criticism about the corners raising at speed isn't warranted. It is a fiberglass hood so it's lighter and not as strong as a metal hood, of course the corners will lift. If you don't want to install any good latch then you just have to live with it. The finish on mine is great and the fittment is good. The gap on either side if not even isn't of by more that 1/16 of an inch. The gap on both sides may be wider than stock but it's been years since I've seen a Thirdgen Camaro up close in person with the stock hood and the hood down. These cars are at least 23 years old, no telling what has happened to one to cause a hood fitment not to be perfect. A collision, body rail not perfect from the factory, a twisted body.

 

Whatever... I know what the body shop told me. They would not touch a Harwood because of the poor fitment plus what I experienced with the fitment was not what my money bought. The Goodmark fits perfectly with a clean straight factory gap on both sides so that shoots down any aging or body damage issues. The finish was not a question that has more to do with the body shop techs and their paint prep. So far as hood latches, pins or bolts, IMHO they take away from the clean lines of the car and look out of date kind of 60'ish.

 

I think you're missing my point and taking something I said as being personally offensive. These cars are at least 24 years old now (forgot it was 2016 now) so we can't say what each individual car has been through anymore. These are also first generation for unibody cars and most of the body is simple 18-22 gauge metal bent in a brake and then spot/plug welded together, simply driving it w/o sfc will alter the cars tolerances. My hood has no problem except for the possibility of a wider but even hood to fender gap which I brought up before so I don't see my series or mold being the problem. It's possible yours was from a bad mold or anything else I suggested but most likely not a pandemic problem at harwood.

 

No offense taken but it's funny how he has some of the very same issues I had and I installed my hood in 2001 and his hood is installed in 2015 so in my opinion not much has changed. My Goodmark fits perfectly with a perfect gap so my body is probably pretty close to correct. I understand the way these cars were built but that should not be the issue in this case. Personally I would not consider the Harwood for an auto except for use on a track only car that I really didn't care for the perfection like I do on a street car. A 50 ft looker is OK for some but not for me. As they say this stuff is built for a track car where close is good enough. I know I sound pretty opinionated on the fact but when I find a component that is to me sub-quality I wholeheartedly reject it from my use. Their quality is simply not what I want on my street car.

 

The gaps on my hood were bad too
This is how I 'fixed' my fender gap




This is before finishing the edge to final gap.





Started with kittyhair filler then finished off with thin layer of bond

 

Sometimes on 3rd Gens and other cars with high pressure gas hood struts and a light weight fiberglass hood, the issue isn't the hood or the fender or the car.

The high pressure strut can press so hard the hood bows upward slightly in the middle. This will look like it's misaligned at the fender. Removing the gas struts or using older weak ones can eliminate the issue.

 

These people have quality hoods, or glass and fill.

http://www.usbodysource.com/

 

Waht I did was to use the strut as a prop rod simply disconnect one end and let it ride in the jamb when closed. If you leave the strut in place the hood will bow and eventually cause spider cracks in the paint. As said in my previous post I replaced my Harwood with a Goodmark. Real happy with Goodmark