Is this correct? Anyone use this method?

 

I've done it that way, and also by breaking the ball joint. I find on an F body it's easier by breaking the ball joint and jacking the A frame up. With stock springs I've been able to do it without a spring compressor, it's easier with one but not bad without one. I've also installed Moroso trick springs and they are long and require a very good spring compressor.

 

Thanks Beeman, What do you mean by this? I think I found a video on what you are saying:

 

Way easier the way the manual States. I use a floor jack with short 2x4 between the LCA brushing to spread load and save scratching up the LCA. Removing spring by splitting at ball joint is lot harder & not as safe

 

Thanks Daferris - what makes its safer? (that's my main concern, I want to be able to drive the car after doing this

 

That way if the spring decides to exit early it "hopefully" doesn't come out toward you...

 

Kiik84 hit the nail on the head... 1st time I did mine the spring compresser slipped. Doing from LCA bushing side did not need a compressor at all just the floor Jack.

 

So, how hard is it to get the spring back into place using this method?

 

chilton says to use spring compressor to get it back in. Are you guys finding this necessary?

 

Here is the tool Chilton is calling out. It appears this is set on floor jack, and the upper part rests on the a-arm pivot joints??

http://www.v8s10.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19329

From one of the ebay descriptions "You are bidding on a Kent Moore Coil Spring Compressor Remover Installer adapter J-23028-16. Tool is in good condition. Same some $ here and thanks for looking!
Info: C/K TRUCK
C/K Truck Previously essential J-23028-01 is used with a trans jack to support the lower control arm to facilitate control arm retaining bolts removal. 1999 C/K truck control arms do not have sufficient clearance under the control bushings to use the support arms of J 23028-01. This adapter connects to the bottom side of the control arm to provide a lifting surface for J-23028-01. The tool is adjustable to fit the control arms of both the C1500 & C2500 which have different dimensions. "

An old thread, but using aftermarket a-arm
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...j-23028-a.html

This guy used it with success.
http://www.turbobuicks.com/forums/bu...tml#post572133

http://www.g3gm.com/t9714-spring-c-arm-tool

http://transamcountry.com/community/...40322#msg40322

 

I know this site includes members with different levels of mechanical skill and I would not insult or belittle any member for that fact. While consulting a manual is great it may not always be the best or easiest option. I've replaced springs on several of these cars and for the life of me I can't understand why anyone would take the bolts out of the lower control arm to do this job. You will have the force of the spring pushing down on you during install all while trying to maneuver the control arm back in and line up the bolt holes. It's much easier to remove the top strut nut and sway bar end link and slowly lower your floor jack. You can easily pry the spring out of the lower seat with a pry bar or large screwdriver, there will be very minimal tension on the spring. Reseat your new spring, raise your jack while you or a helper guide the strut back in and you're golden. Takes me about 15 minutes per side. Of course you can choose any method you want, I'm just offering a tried and true low risk of injury method.

 

you can put a chain on the spring to keep it from flying at you if it should happen. Make sure you hook the other end of chain to something solid.

 

As I read around this board, some people can use the method Ty92Z mentions, while others can't. It appears guys with lowering springs have best success. Guys trying to put stock Moog replacements in, no so much. May depend on spring rates as well, I don't know.

Here is a very interesting method:

See post #21 : https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ml#post4489587

and photos on post #23 : https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ml#post4497482


Another method, looks by far the best and easiest I've read about Post #34: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ml#post4605555

Detailed post of using a spring compressor, which includes the pipe that everyone mentions : https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...y-install.html

 

This is the style coil spring compressor I have. Mine is a Branick which was purchased from Snapon. I've owned it about 35 years. it has been used on a lot of coil spring installations and makes it easier. It clamps the spring to the lower control arm allowing you to install the spring and then release the pressure. I have also done many without a compressor, sometimes it's quicker and easier. I've done my Camaro numerous times and done it from both ends of the A arm and as I said the ball joint is easier. I've done my Camaro with V-6 springs to lower it with no spring compressor. I've done it with Moroso trick springs and my Snapon spring compressor and most wouldn't want to be standing there when I compressed that spring enough to get it in place.
Use some sense and take your time. Find someone who knows what they are doing to show you or assist you.
That blue tool you show a picture of is a Kent moore GM tool. I've used that on a trans jack to do coil springs while on a lift when I was a GM line tech.

 

Just thought of another idea on how to do this if you are wanting to retain existing springs. Could use this method, post #34 https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ml#post4605555

But instead of taking it down to a shop, put the steel straps around the spring prior to removal. Then it would seem they would fall out when the a-arm is lowered, and you would already have them compressed when it comes time to put them back in. Think this is possible?

 

Sounds very feasible. Could use a set of good quality ratchet straps, one on each side if one didn't have the means to secure steel strapping. Would solve the problem people have with installing tall or stiff springs in the manner I suggested.